Glue

Titebond original. I usually buy it by the quart. Last time it was on sale for $4.99 I bought 4 of them. I go through a quart about every month and a half.

I've tried Gorilla glue but it goes bad too quick, for me anyway.
 
Different types of Titebond. I buy epoxy and CA in bulk.

Me, too.

Also both hot and liquid hide glue.

I very seldom use Gorilla, because it's so messy. TB3 is much nicer to use if you need waterproof. If you need gap filling, then either make your joints fit better, or use a filled epoxy. :D
 
Thanks for starting this debate Dave. I for one need to learn more in this category.

I buy yellow and lately titebond 3 but its sorta overkill for the need from what i understand.

I also bought a stainable Elmers PVA type glue to try. I am on the very low end of consumption with the amount i get out to the shop. I hope thats going to change though.

Can anyone provide me with the insight as to why buy all three titebonds. I mean apart from cost if you are using a large quantity.

I noticed in some pictures posted that guys have big jugs of each in their shops. Why not just one that will do it all.

Looking to learn.:eek:
 
I use plastic resin (DAP Weldwood) for all panel/tabletop glueups and any bent laminations. I use Gorilla poly for any closed mortise and tenon joint (where the tenon is buried). I don't like any of the yellow glues because of the 'creep', and only keep a small bottle on hand for utility purposes (shop projects) and for gluing in square plugs that are intentionally 'proud' of the surface.
 
Each has its own properties. I use them all from time to time but for most of my WWing I opt for Titebond Original or II depending on price and availability. This week I used epoxy on a small project, as well as some CA. Last week I used exclusively Titebond, last month I think I used all three pluss some Polyurethane, and some spray rubber cement, over the last year I have used several tubes of Carpenters cement, Some strange epoxy for concrete, PVC glue and mastic for those jobs and some sticky gooy black stuff my son gave me to seal holes in the deck of our houseboat.

Depends.... (not the ones you wear but the type of application) :thumb:
 
i buy titebond original in 5gal pails, plastic resin in 5# tins and monkey glue,(gorilla brand polyurethane) in quarts.......epoxy and ca i use so little i just buy enough for the occasion.
 
I'm like Don; TB-I or II (whoever is on sale), epoxy, CA, contact cement and silicone rubber I just keep a little of for this and that.
 
I use a bit of all of them. Mostly epoxy and CA around the lathe, and Titebond II or DAP Weldwood plastic resin on flat stuff. Like Glenn, I generally have some of every major type on hand.
 
I use TB3 mostly. I also use epoxy for certain applications. And often Elmer's white glue for veneer.

Someone asked why you sometimes see TB1 and TB3 in the same shop. Only reason I can think of is color. TB3 is dark, TB1 is light.

Mike
 
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Someone asked why you sometimes see TB1 and TB3 in the same shop. Only reason I can think of is color. TB3 is dark, TB1 is light.

Mike

The reason I can see is that TB3 had lots of advertising, but TB1 is forgiving (I can get rid of that glue fingerprint that I missed). I don't use TB3 because it is more expensive, the lower working temp is not enough to matter, the extra strength doesn't matter (wood breaks before the joint with TB1), the water resistance of TB3 is not waterproof enough for me if waterproof is needed, and I can get all the open time I need with TB1 with a water mist.

My bad attitude about TB2 and TB3 will probably keep the advertising people at TB from sending their kids to college, thus I will have ruined their lives.
 
i buy titebond original in 5gal pails, plastic resin in 5# tins and monkey glue,(gorilla brand polyurethane) in quarts.......epoxy and ca i use so little i just buy enough for the occasion.

wherer do you feel the use of plastic resin glue is the number one choice tod?? isnt that the dry powder you add water too and yu get a brown thick mud.:huh:
 
wherer do you feel the use of plastic resin glue is the number one choice tod?? isnt that the dry powder you add water too and yu get a brown thick mud.:huh:

yup..........i use it for structural applications such as in self supportave curved stringers......i actually try to avoid all but plain ol` yellow glue most of the time cause if i use anything else i gotta clean my gluing equipment:eek:
 
... I avoid Gorilla glue, since the only joint I have had fail was Gorilla glued (the foam has NO strength), but I use other brands of poly glue.

Interesting. Several years back when I was building a lot of chairs, I tried the Gorrilla, TB, Elmers, and SystemIII poly glues. I can't remember what specifically I didn't like about the others, but Gorilla was the one that 'kept' longest in the bottle, seemed to stay 'slick' longest while working, and had the most consistent and controllable foaming (and therefore easier cleanup). I used it a couple times on small tabletops and had to do them over... but to my knowledge, none of maybe 200 dining chairs ever came back for a M/T joint failure.
 
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