BLO

I have aways used ploy to finish my projects but, I want to venture out a little and try something different. I read that BLO pops the grain. What is the visual difference between BLO and minerial oil. I have some minerial oil on hand. Will minerial oil pop the grain like BLO? Also is there any difference between minerial oil, salad bowl oil, and butcher block oil?
 
Any oil will tend to pop the grain, because oils soak into the wood, darkening it somewhat and changing how it reflects light.

Mineral oil is a non-hardening oil. It never "cures". I wouldn't think it would be good under any membrane finish like poly or varnish. Salad bowl oil and butcher block oil are also typically made of non-drying oils, sometimes plain ol' mineral oil sold at four times the price. There is also something called salad bowl finish, but that's essentially a wipe-on varnish with a little bit of something like BLO or tung oil in it.

BLO is an oil, but it hardens when it cures. By itself, it's not real durable, but after it cures, you can cover it with most any kind of membrane finish for better durability.
 
Ditto what Vaughn said. I've used BLO alone and in combination for many years. Back when I was still using polyurethane for nearly everything, I generally used the following finish schedule:
1. Wipe with BLO/MS in a 1/1 ratio to pop the grain and let sit overnight.
2. Sand lightly with 320, then wipe with the same mix again and let dry for a day.
3. Wipe with BLO/MS/Poly in a 1/1/1 mix, let dry and sand lightly.
4. Wipe with BLO/MS/Poly in a 1/1/2 mix, let dry and sand lightly.
5. Spray a topcoat or two of poly to seal the deal.

The main changes I've made to that schedule is to use naphtha in place of MS - seems to dry faster. I don't use poly for much of anything anymore. Now, after the oil rub, I spray a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac to seal and provide a barrier. Then, I topcoat with whatever I've chosen for that project which is usually a waterborne product now.
 
As was stated about that over used term "Pop" the grain. Any ambering oil wil ""Enhance" grain coloring, you cant get this from white oils or WB finishes.

BLO is not a finish, it is a treatment. Over time BLO dries, dissapates, and goes away, leaving unfinished wood behind. Hard rubbing and polishing of BLO can bring the polimers to the surface and burnish a film on the surface but these treatments must be protected to prevent deteriation.

Finishes have a hardening surface treatment that will remain intact over time.

IMHO BLO is far overrated. At the time of its conception, it was as good as you could get. but progress and chemestry has developed many far better Finishes. That are "Finishes not Treatments" that exceed or equal the results of BLO
 
As was stated about that over used term "Pop" the grain. Any ambering oil wil ""Enhance" grain coloring, you cant get this from white oils or WB finishes.

BLO is not a finish, it is a treatment. Over time BLO dries, dissapates, and goes away, leaving unfinished wood behind. Hard rubbing and polishing of BLO can bring the polimers to the surface and burnish a film on the surface but these treatments must be protected to prevent deteriation.

Finishes have a hardening surface treatment that will remain intact over time.

IMHO BLO is far overrated. At the time of its conception, it was as good as you could get. but progress and chemestry has developed many far better Finishes. That are "Finishes not Treatments" that exceed or equal the results of BLO

well Mr. Simpson, could you give us some of your far better finishes examples? Please.. thanks FWW had a article a while back stating something similiar. i think they even compared the final product against the BLO regime
 
... IMHO BLO is far overrated. At the time of its conception, it was as good as you could get. but progress and chemestry has developed many far better Finishes. That are "Finishes not Treatments" that exceed or equal the results of BLO
Like Larry, I'm awaiting your input on what we should use in place of BLO.
 
As was stated about that over used term "Pop" the grain. Any ambering oil wil ""Enhance" grain coloring, you cant get this from white oils or WB finishes.

BLO is not a finish, it is a treatment. Over time BLO dries, dissapates, and goes away, leaving unfinished wood behind. Hard rubbing and polishing of BLO can bring the polimers to the surface and burnish a film on the surface but these treatments must be protected to prevent deteriation.

Finishes have a hardening surface treatment that will remain intact over time.

IMHO BLO is far overrated. At the time of its conception, it was as good as you could get. but progress and chemestry has developed many far better Finishes. That are "Finishes not Treatments" that exceed or equal the results of BLO

I've got issues with that... around here we've got countless houses a hundred years old that've been painted with linseed-oil-based paint. Except in spots where moisture was allowed to get inside the wood, under the paint, the linseed oil is still intact.
 
BLO is a curing finish. Meaning that it actually oxidizes as it dries into a different chemical compound. As a finish is adds a slight amount of protection compared to bare wood. Contrary to popular opinion, it doesn't have to be reapplied over and over again as it doesn't go anywhere. As far as it popping the grain, it does enhance the grain but unless it is being used as a stand alone finish, it's really a waste of time. I've done testing with it as a step under other finishes. I've found that I can't tell finish samples where I applied BLO under Lacquer from finish samples where I used lacquer alone. As someone stated above, any finish with an amber tint will pop the grain the same way that BLO will.
 
I've done testing with it as a step under other finishes. I've found that I can't tell finish samples where I applied BLO under Lacquer from finish samples where I used lacquer alone. As someone stated above, any finish with an amber tint will pop the grain the same way that BLO will.
It realy depends on the type of top coat you use. I use wipe on poly that is clear so I have found that the blo enhances the finish. It also acts as a sealer so I don't have to use as much top coat as I would otherwise. It's realy a matter of personal preferance. When I did a workshop with Sam Maloof he said he used a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung oil and 1/3 wipe on poly. He used 12 coats.
 
Make sure that you allow ample time for the BLO to cure before you overcoat w/ shellac because, unlike most varnishes, shellac does not have the same solvent base. I've always given BLO several days to cure before using shellac.
 
Not to muddy the issues here, but what is the difference between polyurethane and polyvarathane? Would do de mean when we say "poly?" And, last, any particular favorite brand?

Inquiring minds......etc.
 
It realy depends on the type of top coat you use. I use wipe on poly that is clear so I have found that the blo enhances the finish. It also acts as a sealer so I don't have to use as much top coat as I would otherwise. It's realy a matter of personal preferance. When I did a workshop with Sam Maloof he said he used a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 Tung oil and 1/3 wipe on poly. He used 12 coats.


That's why I pointed out that any topcoat with an amber tint will pop the grain like BLO. Also, BLO's characteristics as a sealer are vastly overrated. As I said earlier, it is a curing oil so it does seal to some extent and is a slight improvement to bare wood. However, I would not count on it and would use as many coats of sealer as I would if I hadn't used BLO.
 
Carol, I don't know the differance between the two. I have used Varathane brand in the past. I now use Minwax brand and in the fast dry formula. I have used this for about 4-5 yrs. I have very good succuse with it. I use it because it drys faster than the other brand, but Varathane may have a fast dry formula now also. I haven't checked.
 
Rex, what type of wood are you using,that you are looking to get the grain to pop on.. i have used shellac for that purpose and you can get the amber if you use a dewaxed shellac,, or a more redish tint in garnet shellac, if you tell us what wood perhaps those that have done some projects and have close up pics could post them or a link to them for you to see and they can tell you there regime in gettin there..
 
Larry, I am making some infant caskets. Wearabilaty is not an issue. I have some that the box is maple with cherry trim. Red oak with ash trim and red oak with burr oak trim. I did a mix to see which I would like better and I was using wood that I had or was given to me. I have 3 complete units from ash that I am going to try BLO with shellac, Minwax Antique Oil Finish and Minwax ployurethane. I am a couple of days from finishing, but will show pics when done. (That is if I can remeber how to post pics.)
 
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