Saw sharpening

Sorry I can't be of help in giving you an address, but if you send them over I can give them a try;).


More seriously Bart, for that price I would not hesitate to take the worst one of the group and try to sharpen it myself. Not before having made a thorough research on the the net about how to do it. I've seen a well explained video from LN on YouTube about saw shaperning both rip and crosscut.

After all the only bad consecuence you may have is having to resharpen it again until you learn how. As we say here " cortando huevos se aprende a capar". Or one learns by doing.;)
 
save yu the trouble:)

on the first two i will do it, just send them over here bart and i will pay for shipping:) what a deal:) am looking for a rip and crosscut myslef:)
 
On the two little gent saws someone has already tried sharpening them:eek::eek::eek:they need to be resharpened completely a garage sale find 2 for $5. At first I wondered if it was worth it but upon further reading I see most of these saws have to wide of a set or in one manner or another are not sharpened properly. I think for me to sharpen any saw I'd almost want a tutor. The only tool I have toward this endeavor is a saw vise I do have a saw set but am not sure if it is any good or not I got it along with a bunch of other stuff. I know that I'd need the right file to match up to what ever tooth the saw has but beyond that I know nothing.

I have the 16" Jennings rip saw how is a saw that sized used? I understand the ripping process but don't understand how a person could rip very far along the board without the back of the saw coming into contact with the material being ripped. Please explain. Thanks.
 
I have the 16" Jennings rip saw how is a saw that sized used? I understand the ripping process but don't understand how a person could rip very far along the board without the back of the saw coming into contact with the material being ripped. Please explain. Thanks.[/QUOTE said:
Hi Bart.

There is no need for the saw to run it almost perpendicular to the board, it may be faster but it also leaves a more rough edge, specially on plywood.
I've made a rough sketch so that you can see how it is done, once you try it you find that it actually helps a lot to cut straight, because when ripping the grain tends to dominate the saw making it drift, in this way as the saw has more surface within the cut it is easier to stay in the line. And as the saw has the stiff back the blade can't bend taking you out of line.

If the two gent saws have been tried to be sharpened, then just go for it with them, they do not look specially good to me, so all that you can loose is 4 $ and you can learn a lot.

You'll need a saw rake or make yourself one. And as per the the set, rip saws have none up to very little set. Crosscut ones have but if you have one of those saw setting pliers you can set the teeth easily and all with the same set.

You can do it Bart! I'm abosultely confident in your skill. Do get some documentation and give it a try with those gent saws, when you are happy with them go for the others. Use one of those magnifiers that one wears on the forehead or similar and go for it!:thumb::thumb:
 

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I always thought every town in America had one or two retired guy who did sharpening. But, lack of sharpening guys seems to be pretty common. I guess I have just lived in the right towns.
 
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