Installing Stair Treads

Darren Wright

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A friend's wife has ripped out all of the carpet on their stairs to their basement and is wanting oak treads installed. It currently has the particle board treads and plywood kick boards installed.

I plan to remove at least the existing treads and perhaps the kick board depending on the clearance.

My question is...I'm planning to use constructions adhesive to install the treads and kick boards with only a few nails to keep them in place. Is this acceptable?
 
you'll be relying on glue to hold to what amounts to endgrain if the stringers are cut from dimentional lumber.
 
I am facing what will probably be the same problem... carpeted stairs, presumably junk lumber underneath, no access to the underside of the stairs. I want to put on oak treads (and probably new risers too), so what is the best way to attach? Once the old tread is up, I could screw a sister to the stringer if the grain is the only problem with glue, but is there a better way?
 
Glue, screw and plug or glue nail and fill. You have a pile of other options depending on your skill set but those two are going to be the easiest.:thumb:
 
I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?
 
I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?

Actually, that particular glue & nail combination should be okay, and the glue should definitely help with the squeaks. My construction adhesive of preference is PL Premium, BTW.
 
I guess I was more thinking that the glue would help with squeaks and such over time. I don't mind using nails to attach the treads. Most likely I'll be removing the old and attaching directly to the stringers. Typically I'd do probably 3 nails on each stringer, one hidden by the riser, and two others on the face. Would the glue cause more problems than it's worth?

Now this brings up the age old question riser on top of tread or riser behind tread?:dunno::dunno::dunno:Well I know what I do and why, but lets hear from you guys which way and why?
 
if you're going to build to last there are a couple of ways to strengthen the stringers and make them ready for glue.
the most labor intensive is to let in a 2x across the face using glue and nails/screws.then add sleepers parallel to the treads behind the 2x.
then i like to use plugged screws and more glue to affix the treads, face to edge grain.

like jim i too use pl premium.....(don't slop it on your finished wood!:eek:)

if you're going to mill your own treads/risers be sure to plow a stopped dado in the bottom side of the tread and cut an appropriate tongue on the riser, that way you won't need a scotia mould.
 
Now this brings up the age old question riser on top of tread or riser behind tread?:dunno::dunno::dunno:Well I know what I do and why, but lets hear from you guys which way and why?

i try to glue and screw the riser into the back of the tread below it. providing i can access the back.
 
Hey Chuck how you counting. I get Steve and Todd thats 2. Who is number 3 and who is the one.:huh::dunno:

I wish you guys would put up a drawing or pic for the dummies like me. I have looked up the stringers bit but Todd i cannot figure out what you were saying about the 2x at all.

Darren and Charlie if your stringers are just ply I presume they are fixed to walls on either side of the steps down to the basement. In my house the guys used Ply oak veneered treads risers and stringers all the way up the house but construction grade 2x material down to the basement with no wall on the side to support the stringers.

My question to ya all is if you go over the ply treads and risers already there, as opposed to cutting new ones, how do you get an even step. Surely somewhere one of these steps gets to be say 3/4" different. Or am i just missing something. This is the world i really would like to learn.:eek:

Oh and what about using something like drywall screws from beneath the treads and risers to attach the overlaid ones? Ok i presume that one can access them from underneath. Surely all this talk of nails is what adds to the whole squeek thing.
 
I've thought about this, but so far balked at the work.

But last week I came across a thread over on SMC that referred to this company (nustair.com) for refacing old staircases with hardwood.

I watched the install video and I was pretty impressed with how quick and easy they've made this process. Previously I've read about a lot of hassles with having to rip off the bullnose and so on. Here they just slap a prefinished piece over top and then build out the riser a bit.

FYI.
 
here`s a quick sketch....sorry sketch-up is still foreign to me:eek:
MVC-110S.JPG
small box on the right represents lookin` down on the stringers.
 
Thanks Todd I aint familiar with the Sketchup either so i understand your sketch much better old school.:thumb::D I now understand what you guys are talking about. I had missed Darrens point that he was considering removing the treads and risers.

In your sketch you show three stringers right. Do you always do this. I dont see this in the case of my home. And on my stairs they made 3/8 plywood triangles that they glued to the stringers then glued and bashed wedges in to hold them tight. I had thought they were dadoed into the stringers. Still squeaks though. I promised myself i am going to be cutting the drywall away and getting into the back. Then i will take pics and ask for some guidance. I am determined to get the squeaks out of this staircase but its the usual builders junk at a premium price. I think simply adding some of the extra lumber under the stair will make a difference

I think a 2x under the front edge and some triangle 2x8 lumber in the middle to form your "3rd stringer might just help stop the nonsense.

What you guys say?

Chuck i understand those numbers now.:D

Ok one question not answered is can you just go over the top? What happens on the top stair where the bulnose is to the next landing. Especially if there is a 180 change in direction via the landing. I presume this means the flooring on the landing changes too?:huh:
 
Going over the top of the existing treads would be hard to do without without the top and bottom riser heights changing. Unless the rise/run is consistent from top to bottom it's a fall hazard. I'm not sure what the code says about what's the largest discrepancy allowed in either dimension but I believe it's in there somehwere.

I visited a house where they redid the flooring on the main level in old 1-1/4 barn flooring above the existing sub-floor without adjusting the basement stairs. That was an eye opener the first time I went down them. The first step was 1-1/4 inches taller than the rest!

That's the source of the old phrase : What that first step - it's a doozie!

I once built a 3 tread 4 riser set of steps into the sun porch in house #1. The hard part was the landing area was pitched right to left 1/2" across the width. I think I split the difference and the middle of the step was the right height.

Not sure of this helped.

Cheers

Jim
 
It sounds like your stairs are from a stair shop Rob. Built off site and installed. Although there are some that build them in the field in the same frame-less manner. The skirt boards are 5/4 and the treads and riser are rabbited in with a router. Some put a center gusset some don't. Most field built are done with the stringer method. Where you cut the riser and tread out of a 2x so you can frame the stair case. Most of the time it is a three stringer situation. Then you attach the skirt board to the wall and your treads and risers to the 2x stringers.
 
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