Leopardwood potpourri bowl

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6.5" wide and 4.5" tall. 60 pieces of leopardwood and 1 piece of curly maple floating between rings for the bottom. Finished with 3 coats of Antique Oil and still waiting to be buffed. Critiques and comments are welcome. Thanks for looking.
 

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Nice project and interesting wood grain effect. Thanks for posting the pictures.

I keep saying I'm going to do one of those but all the WWing companies sell the same 3-4 lid inserts, I don't particularly care for any of them. I made my own with some scroll work but sure wish they would produce a few more choices.

Again, That sure looks good.... :thumb:
 
Beautiful work. :thumb: Leopardwood sure does work well in segmented pieces, and this bowl demonstrates that idea very nicely.
 
Robert its a beauty. I would have loved it if you had posted a how you did it progress shots for us newbies to learn the craft.:D Pretty please how about a tutorial on that type of segementing?:wave::thumb:;)

I would also like to ask is that leopard wood any different to lacewood? I googled them for pictures and i cant tell the difference.
 
Well done, Robert.

Down here we call it Lacewood. Must be some difference between them. I tried the stuff and the piece I got was cut incorrectly. All the figure was on the bottom; not on the sides. It also, was very chippy.

Again GREAT WORK!

Bruce
 
Thank you for the positive comments. I can also take the bad ones if you have them!


Bill - I agree with you on the inserts. The only thing is that if you are the one receiving the turning, you probably have no idea about the kind or availability of the inserts. I also have a lead on some small metal stars that I am going to try that I think will look good.


Rob and Bruce - Leopardwood, Lacewood, same animal called two different names as far as I know. The flecks are just like QS white oak. They only show up on the QS portions. The board I used was totally 100% QS and looked awesome as a board. You can see from the shot above that where the ring starts to flatten out for the top, the rays start to pick up again. If I had used a flat-sawn board, I think that the rays would show up on the sides of the vase instead of the top.


Mohammad - Think about a cabinet door. There is a panel trapped in a slot in the frame. This prevents any damage from the wood moving. This is the same idea. The bottom ring is made and a rabbet is cut in the ring. A disc of wood is inserted into the ring with 1 drop of glue on the end-grain and it is all turned flush. The second ring is then glued on top of the first ring, being careful not to get any glue on the disc, effectively leaving you with a trapped disc of wood that will allow wood movement without tearing the piece apart. This is not my idea by any means, it came from Malcolm Tibbetts' book.
 
Mohammad - Think about a cabinet door. There is a panel trapped in a slot in the frame. This prevents any damage from the wood moving.

Interesting indeed. Seems like an overkill to me though for a segmented bottom. I have the Tibbett's book but never read the whole thing. I guess I will go back and read about this.
 
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