2010 state fair entry design

Dan Noren

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only one this year, no caravan of entries. :rofl:
 

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Dan, I agree with Don. You can do better.

I think the curved edges of the top clash with the angular cloud lift edges on the aprons and stretchers. Why don't you try carrying that curve to the bottom edges of those pieces? Maybe use that same curve and corner detail from the top on the horizontal members. And maybe echo that long curve in the slots. You could even use that same detail on the top edges of the stretchers.

The legs need something, too. Put a little bit of a curve near the bottom so the foot is smaller. Make the profile something like the Blacker House chair legs without the recess. Maybe bring that curve down to about 1/8" from the floor and make a foot to help lighten the table some.
 
Dan how about sides that are hinged up to form a sorta serving tray effect. With nice solid brass inlaid hinges. Sort of a tray table with legs. here is a picture of the tray i just dont mean the folding legs more your version.
tray table with folding sides.jpg
 
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i'll probably fair out the angles a bit, and possibly rearrange the slots in the top a bit. the legs will have decorative plugs at the top and bottom, i just didn't add them to the drawing. i may narrow up the bottom braces too.
 
Dan, I think that if you taper the legs and make the aprom shorter with onli 1 slot it would look better. Also the height of the table is wrong.standard heights for tables (this it the height to the bottom of the top) Coffee table 17, end table 19 and dining table are 28. This one is 23 1/2 which is no where. Try loosing 4 1/2" on the leg height and shortining the apron. See how it looks with a single slot in a 4" apron. and taper the legs.
 
I agree that the shape of the top doesn't compliment the rest of the design elements. Separately, they are nice, but they don't seem to work with each other. Decorative plugs would seem to amplify the leg design, but make it that much more incongruous with the top.

IMHO, you're headed in a couple of great-looking directions, but they're not leading to the same destination.

My 2¢ ;)
 
well, here is the redesign. dave, the angles were easier to draw for me, i plan on cutting the angled areas at a curve, just have to find a diameter i like. the slots are now what i originally intended. i had given up on them yesterday, and went with something easier to draw. i have also thinned the upper and lower stretchers heightwise. the bottoms of the legs will have about a quarter inch chamfer at the bottoms. i was thinking blacker house recess, but i thought it wouldn't look quite right, with the lower stretchers. i still may thin the lower stretchers a bit more, and reshape to be more like the edges of the table. don, i don't know how you measured the height, but this table is only 21 3/4" tall. for the height, i had borrowed on the research i had done for my friend's table. after checking about 25-30 side tables, ranging from antique to modern, i had found that they range from roughly 17-25 inches, and i figured that this is a good midrange height. if i were to take away 4 3/4" in height, it would top out at 17 1/4", which is lower than the height of the seat of my dining chairs. this table is roughly the same height as the side table i'm building for my friend. as the legs are only 1 1/2" square, for me, tapering is not an option. during writing this post i have redesigned the lower stretchers.
 

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This still needs a bit of refining but it is closer to what I was suggesting. Not a lot of time to do this before getting ready for work. I just pulled the bottom curve of the stretchers off the edge of the top and worked with that.

4421588077_5cbea65225.jpg


The legs still need a bit of something at the foot but I wouldn't do much.
 
this is the design i've decided to go with. the angled corners of the lower stretchers will be rounded when i cut them. i kind of like the idea dave, but it looks like the whole thing is sagging.
 

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