sliding compound miter saw fences

Carol Reed

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Coolidge, AZ
I have a 10" Hitachi SCMS and a Delta Universal saw stand. I want to use a fence system for reliable repetitive cuts. Flip stops would be nice.

I am seriously considering the Kreg system but note that some extra fabrication will be required. But that seems to be the case in any event.

So tell me what kind of fence systems you are using with your SCMS and what do you recommend? Also would appreciate knowing what to avoid! Thanks.

BTW, pictures would even be greater!
 
if you are looking at a permanent stand carol i have the kreg flip stops on both the radial arm bench and the chop saw outfeed tables.. look at my shop thread some time back and you can see what i have..also i would suggest that you have it at a level where you can see where your cutting..i know i can measure and set the stop and be fine but fo rthe cuts that you arent sure or are only making one cut you dont set up the flip stop for it..you bend over look at the line and drop the saw to it and then hit the trigger.. so you need to have the height at a good eye level.. in my opinion and my hieght willdiffer from yours:rofl::rofl:
 
Shop notes has an interesting setup in their latest.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/110/

I've got mine on a portable stand. I attached a piece of square aluminum tubing to mine, put an an adhesive backed tape measure on it and made a little sliding wooden block. Works great for repeat cuts...
 
Hey Chuck is that for cup's, top's or bottle stopper's?

It's a pretty complicated system Bart. The clamped on part is for mug handles. The blue one if for cutting off the tenon. and the mark just beyond that is for cutting the mug blanks to length. That mark is machined into the table and has one on the other side to match:thumb::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Well, here's my solution. It's not as elegant as Chucks, but it lets you do a little longer cuts.

Since I don't have a permanent miter saw station, it works for me because the tape has been accurately placed, it's removeable, and most importantly of all, moveable!

WEB_DSCN3631.jpg

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Oh, One other thing. For shorter cuts, I've got a piece of wood I cut exactly 12 inches. I've got a rare earth magnet in the end of the stick, and theres one embedded in the stop block as well. That way I can make the shorter cuts as well.
 
That's the set up I envision! Thanks, Brent. I have that same stand for my saw. I need for the fence sections to fold down with the stand and go back up remaining deadly accurate.

When I get to this project - next week or two - I may be back with more questions. One picture you posted I didn't quite understand but have no time at the moment to study it further.

I have a stop system that I think I can modify into a flip stop arrangement. And I was using the measured stick trick, but I was using 10" not 12, (easier to add or subtract) and Larry pointed out being able to see the measure. Since I am short, I need to consider that as well.

I noticed you used square stock. I assume it is aluminum? I have some stout aluminum angle that I planned to use. My stop system requires a wood strip with a kerf on either side for the stop to slide in. Pictures when I get going on this.
 
Hi Carol,

Mine is square aluminum tubing. Basically, I replaced the knobs on that hold the sliding fences on the saw with the machine screws. The machine screws do double duty, holding the fences on the saw, and holding the aluminum tube to the saw.

The holes in the tube are the same diameter as the screws, so even if I take it off and put it back on, the fence measurements stay the same.

My sliding block was just a chunk of maple that I cut a dado in to fit over the aluminum tubing. I put a knob on the back of the block that tightens the block so it doesn't move.
 
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So when you fold the stand you need to remove the fence? But when you re-attach the fence it remains accurate? Could you get a shot from the rear of this attachment, if its not too much trouble? Thanks.
 
Yup, that's pretty much it. There were already a couple of holes in the saw, I just tapped them to take the bolts. So when I move the saw, I just take out those bolts.

I'll get a picture a little later and post it.
 
Here's the picture from the back...
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