RAS Blade

Pete Simmons

Member
Messages
546
Location
Melbourne, FL
Any suggestions on a RAS 10" Blade

It should be -5 degree hook angle correct?

Not looking for a top of the line blade as I cut to many varied items

mostly hardwood cross cutting - NEVER RIP

but sometimes cut plexiglass and Corian.
 
Negative hook angle prevents the blade from self feeding/lunging at you, so yes that is a good thing. I don't think it HAS to be -5 though.

Someone had one for sale forum that sounded like a good RAS blade.
 
This came up on another thread recently. I have been shopping for a negative hook blade. Am yet to see one so labeled in a store. I have even written to some vendors and their replys say "I don't know." The search continues.
 
I forget the number/model but I know Freud makes one that is supposed to be very good. I am just as sure it is not cheap either.

Like you Frank I have never seen one in the store either. I bought a 12" DeWalt made for miter saws. I think it has a 0 degree hook. It still wants to self feed some but I would prefer none. But it was cheap and it's a huge step over the one that came on the saw.

Jeff
 
I forget the number/model but I know Freud makes one that is supposed to be very good. I am just as sure it is not cheap either.

Like you Frank I have never seen one in the store either. I bought a 12" DeWalt made for miter saws. I think it has a 0 degree hook. It still wants to self feed some but I would prefer none. But it was cheap and it's a huge step over the one that came on the saw.

Jeff


For the amount and type of work I use my miter saw for, I can't justify the price of a Freud. Some guy on eBay had miter saw blades, about $10.00 for two. I passed.
 
the simplest way to find a neg rake blade is to look for blades rated for nonferrous metal.....amanna, freud and systimatic come to mind right away...they`re generally offered in 60-80 or 100 tooth.....the lower the tooth count the easier on the saw and your pocketbook....tod
 
I just got my 12" RAS set back up I didn't have a blade such as is mentioned here. My saw hasn't been set up because I received a visit from WISHA just think OSHA but for Washington state. The guy was real nice he explained that I needed a guard on the RAS that would knock my hand away from the blade path before the blade got there & a means of pulling the saw back when released. All this leads to this having learned to use a RAS before negative hook blades arrived on the scene I have found that with the weight & pulley system I have now on the saw to return it to the most rearward position when released I find that the saw also seems to be less likely to try & climb. Of course I learned about 39 years ago on this very saw that you start your pull with a slight rotation of your upper body & shoulder & finish it with your elbow bending slightly this assured that you held the carriage & blade from climbing.

I am at this time using a 10" anti kick back Oldham thin kerf blade that I already had on this RAS. I do hope in the future to get a negative hook blade. But all of the above makes it possible to use this RAS in reasonable safety.

I'll mention this was my Dad's framing saw purchased in 1967. I started cutting material for wall framing & trusses on it when I was 15 years old. I still have all 8 fingers & 2 thumbs.

Hey Frank Pellow I also now have all Dad's & nail & staple guns.

Frank I still really think you need a good RAS & some nail & staple guns in your shop. Of course you know this teasing is all good humor & fun?:wave: :D :D :rofl:
 

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Jeff

My shop is 100% commercial during the day. & 100% hobby during none working hours.

Actually it is only about 10% commercial but where do they differentiate because at the time I turn a tool on or pick up a hand tool to do some work for 1 of the apartment complexes it is at that moment 100% commercial.

They actually only found the problem with the RAS & they wanted me to have a metal cabinet for combustibles. I already had screened the lights so they were safe & had guards on all the pulleys of the tools & I had all my MSDS sheets up to date & all the other little odd items were already taken care of.

You might find this strange but I called them to clarify something. I don't remember what. The inspector said why don't I just stop by as a courtesy & we'll go through your shop & I help you out by explaining what ever you may need to do. Also he is a hobby wood worker himself. So he stopped by & brought his little dog along with him & we had a real nice visit.

Actually it was just plain fun.

I'll bet that doesn't happen every day.
 
While visiting one of my WW suppliers I stopped by the blade sectioon to look specifically for negitive hook blades. They had several. they were labels as for Miter saws and RAS. The one that I saw were 80t -5* hook. price for a 10" CMT was $80 and for a 12 t was $100. they had several other manufacturers but since i wasn't in the market I did'nt look any further. Just passing this along FWIW.:D
 
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