New Organ Build Topsy 3

new builder

Hi Jay. Been dying to build one of these for a while but decided to wait for topsy 3 plans to build the "ultimate" machine. Having just received my plans I have just skimmed over them but it appears a good bit of head scratching will be involved. Your photos are going to be a big help with that. Hope others will build also. Quick question: where to get the special bellows leather he specifies at a decent price and haven't quite figured out how many pallet magnets are needed to build the full blown with percussion totally awsome when finished ultimate music machine. Thanks for your help.
 
Ted the Leather you will be able to get from A Turn N Time as soon as the dummy gets the site up and working (ME)
I am close to covering mine and have been waiting to see how much it takes so I wont shoot my self in the foot by under pricing it.
I bought a box of 90 ohm pallet magnets from Paterson (64) I know it takes that many for sure and maybe a few more. Cost is the same on them if you buy 1 or 10,000 so ordering more at once dose not save you anything.

I am going to build the full blown Topsy also and will post here as I build. I have some great contacts to help us all work thu problems with the MIDI system and I am planing on getting supplies from the USA for them also and possibly work up some ready made circuit boards to have available.

I also have contact with John when needed too. :thumb:

Jay

Oh and Welcome to the FWW Ted Please put where you are located so we know how to razz ya
 
Jay,

I'm REALLY glad you're many steps ahead of me. Those photos are very helpful.

Question: The plans say to mark the positions of the airholes. I would love to mark the positions of the airholes.

What exactly ARE the positions of the airholes?

I know there are 13 of 'em. I know they're 3/8" in dia. I know they run down the center of three of the four bellows boards.

And they look lovely in your photo by the way.

But can you give me a hint how far away from which end of the bellows boards they should be? Does it matter? I know John said that exact measurements would only be given where needed.

(I'm almost dead certain this question is going to wind up making me look stupid, but I got over that a while ago.)
 
I made it back late last night Brian. Sorry I wasnt able to check the forum while on the road (1700 miles in less than 3 days thats with one day of rest) Today I have been in a daze and glassy eyed


I made the holes 5/8 center to center the strip of leather called out for is 10" long and this space seem to work out just fine for me.

On "A" and "B" I marked the first hole centered in the boards and marked 6 each way. On "C" I marked one hole centered and marked one to the right and the rest to the left of center.

Don't forget to use some sealer where you are going to drill (both sides) to help avoid any tear out you need the side the flap valve is one to be perfectly flat no tear-out.

If you still need help I will be here the rest of the night and will be checking emails as Im to tired to do anything else

Jay
 
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Now that the 'Topsy 3' ball is well and truly rolling on your side of the Pond ,I should like to say'Hello' to those that are taking part. I have monitored the progress(or lack of it!) of the Organ-Build group since the begining on a daily basis and will continue to do so. Rest assured that the results will be worth all your efforts. Stick to the Plans and all will be well . As I write, I have my 'Topsy 2' right beside me , and I must say I get a great deal of pleasure from it. Bear in mind that all is not over when that last coat of varnish goes on. You will have the fun of arranging your Music programmes to show your Organ at its best. Good Luck and Best Wishes to all of you.
 
couple of questions: did you get the 5/8 magnets and what was the price; is 1/8 birch suitable for all the pipes; what did you use for the card stiffeners;is there a 4x3/8 slot on both "sides" of bellows board "B" and I don't see dimentions for uprights b and d in drawing 3, do you just measure to make sure you 7" opening? Lots of questions but lots more sure to come. Thanks
 
Ted any where it calls out for hardboard on pipes you can use Baltic Birch I was looking at the drawings and it calls for 1/8 and on some 1/4 & 1/8.

The slot on bellows board "B" is only on one side. On b & d just measure the drawing but also before cutting to size set it up to make sure you get the 7" opening.
I'm almost done with that part and will post some picture when I can.

I am still trying make up my mind on the card stiffeners right now I am thinking of using the stiffener stuff they use on car door panels. I will let you know what I find works best.

Jay
 
Jay,

Got a question about Bellows Board B. It's impossible to tell from the drawing if there are three short "stiffeners" at each end, or two separated by a space. Your photos are a great help, but unfortunately, that part is already assembled, so I can't see the inside.

Thanks,

Brian
 
Jay,

Got a question about Bellows Board B. It's impossible to tell from the drawing if there are three short "stiffeners" at each end, or two separated by a space. Your photos are a great help, but unfortunately, that part is already assembled, so I can't see the inside.

Thanks,

Brian

Brian I used 2 spaced 3/4" apart and it has worked out just right for me.:thumb:
 
Does it sound like I'm in my shop today?

And the questions just keep coming...

That 1/4" notch on Boards A, C & D, it's 1/4" by what exactly? No dimension is given. The full scale drawing is not exactly what you'd call precise. Could be 2". Could be 1 15/16."

Since I can't tell how critical it's likely to be before I try to assemble the pieces, it would be nice to know.

Thanks again,

L. Skywalker
 
And the questions just keep coming...

That 1/4" notch on Boards A, C & D, it's 1/4" by what exactly? No dimension is given. The full scale drawing is not exactly what you'd call precise. Could be 2". Could be 1 15/16."

Since I can't tell how critical it's likely to be before I try to assemble the pieces, it would be nice to know.

Thanks again,

L. Skywalker

Brian look at the drawing on page #3 see the line going all the way through there by part "D" that's where you cut too look on the video and it shows it also.

I screwed mine together and then made the cuts on the table saw as an assembly and it worked real nice. Will post picture of it later today.
 
Great shots, Jay... and again, very helpful.

Is that oak you used for the stiffeners?

The cut for the 1/4" ply... dado on the tablesaw?

No its Maple.
I just used the regular saw blade and the miter gauge with a tall fence and clamped it to it on end made the cut then lowered blade and made the other cut with it setting on edge
 
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"I just used the regular saw blade and the miter gauge with a tall fence and clamped it to it on end made the cut then lowered blade and made the other cut with it setting on edge."

What???!! I'm lost!
 
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