hollowing deep

I'm working on a wood flower vase for my sister in law. It's 4 1/4 x 10 1/4. I got it drilled with a 1" bit 9 1/2" And hollowed out 7 1/2". Which is as deep as i can get my hunter #4 to go. That was pushing it real bad. Holdin it in my hands with out using the tool rest. I no i shouldn't have but i didn't no what else to try.:eek:. Still don't no what to do to get the last 2" or so. What do you do if you don't have the hollowing system? Here's a pic of what i'm trying to do it on.
Thanks for all comments.
Steve
 

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...What do you do if you don't have the hollowing system?...

I'd stop at 7 1/2". ;) Maybe even before that, considering the 'no tool rest' aspect. Pushing tools (any tools) beyond their limit is just asking for a hurtin'.

It's a pretty piece, and not worth risking an accident with. If it was mine, I'd quit while I was ahead, finish it, and live with the thick bottom. :)
 
Stephen,
I have a "termite" too that I can reach that deep with... it's tricky with the cut and I'm still on the low end of the learning curve, but it a great tool for reaching in narrow and deep vessels.. I use mine for some of my wood goblets and hollow forms... I haven't tried a vase yet... still on my to-do list though.
 
Forstner on an extension?

That's a nice looking piece. Bet it will look great with a finish on it..
that's how i got what i got.:)
I'd stop at 7 1/2". ;) Maybe even before that, considering the 'no tool rest' aspect. Pushing tools (any tools) beyond their limit is just asking for a hurtin'.

It's a pretty piece, and not worth risking an accident with. If it was mine, I'd quit while I was ahead, finish it, and live with the thick bottom. :)
I'm sure my sister in law wouldn't mind me doing that, as she takes all my rejects. just wanted to give them something nice for the wooden roses she got from my brother.

Stephen,
I have a "termite" too that I can reach that deep with... it's tricky with the cut and I'm still on the low end of the learning curve, but it a great tool for reaching in narrow and deep vessels.. I use mine for some of my wood goblets and hollow forms... I haven't tried a vase yet... still on my to-do list though.
Chuck i have a termite and did try that this am before going to work. Helped some, just like you havn't gotten it down real good. That learning curve is a pain in the you no what.:rofl:

Screw a carbide cutter to the end of some iron rod similar to the poor man's C1 I made.
Frank you don't have any pics of that poor boys c1 cutter you made by chance you would be willing to share do ya.:wave:
 
Larry he didn't made them he bought them some were. He is a state licensed elec, plummer. when he needs some thing built he comes over and gets me to build it.;). ofcorse when i need some elec done he'll come and help me.:thumb:

True. And you can believe everything we both say. :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Pics soon. Already somewhere on this forum but will be easier to take and post new ones.
 
my tool

Two facts about me well known here:
I am seriously deficient in the ingenuities department. Meaning, if I can visualize and complete this project it is kiddy-garden simple.
And, I ain't gonna pay no $100.00 for something when I can make it for $5.00.
The cutter you see was part of a package of 10 I purchased from Grizzly for about $25.00.
The 3/8" rod cost a buck or two at the local steel supply. The wood came from my scrap pile. The ferrule was probably the most expensive part, a coupling from the hardware store, almost $5.00. Never do that again.
The carbide cutters are available from many sources. They are also available in round. But, for whatever reason, round ones are a lot more expensive. They range about $10.00 to $15.00 each. Don't ask me why. :dunno:
For your project, I would recommend you get a round cutter.
The shaft can be almost anything but square stock in 3/8", or larger is best as it lays steady better than round.
For what you are doing, a long shaft with the handle end bent at 90 degrees would give you a good grip. But, please, do use a rest.
Don't use cold rolled steel, way to hard to work with and is not necessary. Hot rolled is much-much easier to work with.
Grind down a flat, drill a hole, tap and screw on the cutter. BTW, buy your screws with the cutters.
BTW, the carbide stays sharp a very long time. With square you can just change edges. With round, just turn a little. One cutter will last and last and last.
 

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...The carbide cutters are available from many sources. They are also available in round. But, for whatever reason, round ones are a lot more expensive. They range about $10.00 to $15.00 each. Don't ask me why. :dunno:
For your project, I would recommend you get a round cutter...

Frank is correct about there being many sources, but be aware that not all carbide cutter perform alike. The cutters that Craig Jackson uses in the Easy Wood Tools are definitely better than any of the other cutters I've tried, and I've tried several. He has done his research and found the ones that work best for this particular application. This goes for both the square and round cutters. I can say this with some authority, since I just got done field testing several new cutters for Craig to compare them to his originals. They all looked alike, but they did not all cut (or last) alike. ;)
 
Two facts about me well known here:
I am seriously deficient in the ingenuities department. Meaning, if I can visualize and complete this project it is kiddy-garden simple.
And, I ain't gonna pay no $100.00 for something when I can make it for $5.00.
The cutter you see was part of a package of 10 I purchased from Grizzly for about $25.00.
The 3/8" rod cost a buck or two at the local steel supply. The wood came from my scrap pile. The ferrule was probably the most expensive part, a coupling from the hardware store, almost $5.00. Never do that again.
The carbide cutters are available from many sources. They are also available in round. But, for whatever reason, round ones are a lot more expensive. They range about $10.00 to $15.00 each. Don't ask me why. :dunno:
For your project, I would recommend you get a round cutter.
The shaft can be almost anything but square stock in 3/8", or larger is best as it lays steady better than round.
For what you are doing, a long shaft with the handle end bent at 90 degrees would give you a good grip. But, please, do use a rest.
Don't use cold rolled steel, way to hard to work with and is not necessary. Hot rolled is much-much easier to work with.
Grind down a flat, drill a hole, tap and screw on the cutter. BTW, buy your screws with the cutters.
BTW, the carbide stays sharp a very long time. With square you can just change edges. With round, just turn a little. One cutter will last and last and last.
Frank thanks much.:thumb:. I do have the hunter #4 so i do no a little bit about the cost of these cutters.:(.I guess i need to look at my grizzly catalog and see what they have.I do have a 4 ft piece of 1/2" round steel that i could use. not sure even where it came from or what kind it is but it's worth a try seeing that it is free.:D. will give it a go maybe this weekend and see what i can do.

Frank is correct about there being many sources, but be aware that not all carbide cutter perform alike. The cutters that Craig Jackson uses in the Easy Wood Tools are definitely better than any of the other cutters I've tried, and I've tried several. He has done his research and found the ones that work best for this particular application. This goes for both the square and round cutters. I can say this with some authority, since I just got done field testing several new cutters for Craig to compare them to his originals. They all looked alike, but they did not all cut (or last) alike. ;)
Vaughn are these the ones that woodcraft sells? If so might have to order some. You woun't happen to know what size tap i would need for the screws by chanch.:dunno:
 
Two facts about me well known here:
I am seriously deficient in the ingenuities department. Meaning, if I can visualize and complete this project it is kiddy-garden simple.
And, I ain't gonna pay no $100.00 for something when I can make it for $5.00.
The cutter you see was part of a package of 10 I purchased from Grizzly for about $25.00.
The 3/8" rod cost a buck or two at the local steel supply. The wood came from my scrap pile. The ferrule was probably the most expensive part, a coupling from the hardware store, almost $5.00. Never do that again.
The carbide cutters are available from many sources. They are also available in round. But, for whatever reason, round ones are a lot more expensive. They range about $10.00 to $15.00 each. Don't ask me why. :dunno:
For your project, I would recommend you get a round cutter.
The shaft can be almost anything but square stock in 3/8", or larger is best as it lays steady better than round.
For what you are doing, a long shaft with the handle end bent at 90 degrees would give you a good grip. But, please, do use a rest.
Don't use cold rolled steel, way to hard to work with and is not necessary. Hot rolled is much-much easier to work with.
Grind down a flat, drill a hole, tap and screw on the cutter. BTW, buy your screws with the cutters.
BTW, the carbide stays sharp a very long time. With square you can just change edges. With round, just turn a little. One cutter will last and last and last.

Frank,
I won't call you cheap, 'cause you might call me back..:D .. but I do have some Scottish heritage along with a Hebrew origin name... I stay as close to my money as possible.... I needed a ferrule for a tool handle here a while back... looked around the shop and found an old wind chime I had made years ago from copper water pipe... I had used 1 inch pipe... one chime may be a little out of tune now since it's missing about an inch and half of length... 'course with my tin ear, all are probably out of tune and all may wind up as tool ferrules ... :rofl:

I like the tool... may have to "borrow" your design... :thumb:
 
...Vaughn are these the ones that woodcraft sells? If so might have to order some. You woun't happen to know what size tap i would need for the screws by chanch.:dunno:

Yeppers. You can also buy them directly from Craig at http://easywoodtools.com/store.php. (Same price, though. Not cheap, but they last a long time.) The cheaper ones out there do work, especially for roughing, but the ones Craig sells produce a much cleaner cut.

Not sure what the screw thread size is. It's a finer thread than anything in my limited selection of thread sizers.

If you're making your own, I'd recommend using square steel stock instead of round. I've used (and own) both kinds, and the square bar makes it much easier to keep the cutter plumb with the axis of the rotation. A round bar lets it tilt, making it harder to control the cut.
 
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