How to prevent tearout when planing

Tom,
I'm saving my pennies for a 22/44 but that don't help me on my current project. I even gave up cigars.

I understand that Don, I am saving up for a 36" spare my brother has. Fortunately for me I have access to wide belt sanders close to me, Larry has one, my brother has one and a local cabinet maker friend of mine has one. Check around your area to see if there is one that is available, may cost a per hour price but worth it:)
 
try running the board the opposite direction. I was having the same problem with some tough knots on cherry. I made a final real light cut in the other direction and it cleaned it up real nice.
 
don, there has to be a place near you with a wide belt for a fee, the angled cut and misting helps but on some really figured woods unless you have a shelix head your still flirting with tear out.. save your wood and find a source to get it sanded flat.
 
After repeatedly being reminded and suggested here, I finally cleaned and waxed the bed of my planer. Yesterday I planed some walnut and ash and was amazed at just how nice the wood came through. It has, really, an almost no need to sand surface. Might try waxing yer bed.
 
Maybe a LN or Stanley 4½ with a back bevel on the iron to equate about 55~60°, then make diagonal cuts across the board. Mist the surface lightly with water before starting, and take very light cuts.

Power planers aren't always your friends...:(
 
That could be a solution, but some woods can't be planed, not even by hand.
Jim Krenov, in one of his books mentions it and he admits that sometimes there is no other chance than sandpaper, and he was very good at planes and planning.
 
Lot of good suggestions and I'm going to throw in one that was taught to me by an old WWer. Clean the bed, the chip breaker, and rollers, etc. Sharp blades with light passes, all are a help but an old fellow once told (showed) me.... Make passes till ready for final pass, Take a clean wet towel and wipe down the surface just as it is ready to pass through, The water will soften the last pass and allow the blades to slice through. May need some hand sanding as the water may raise the grain. Not a soaking sloppy wet, Just a wet towell wetting the surface... May have to clean out the DC shoot of the planer, but worth it if you get a good result on the wood. :thumb:
 
I just recently purchased a byrd head for my delta 20" planer and it is a huge world of difference in the quality of cut and noise level on my machine. I had a few tearout problems with oak and maple but rarely work figured woods but when I did it was a big problem. I can't remember running any heavy figure since changing it out but I'll bet it would take care of most of it. A bit on the pricy side, mine was $1425 including new bearings but I'd say it was worth it. I can now skip the 100 grit sanding on my widebelt and can go directly to the 150 grit instead. I build a lot of rp doors for my contractor customers and of course build them also for my custom kitchens.
 
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