Tiger Maple

Steve Ash

Member
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2,437
Location
Michigan
It's been a couple years since I have done anything woodworking related....got real busy fixing up the damages of a hailstorm that hit here. :D

But.....I recently was up in the U.P. doing some building when a friend gave me a hunk (4" x 12" x 9') of Tiger Maple to use as a mantle in our (hopefully) new hunting/fishing cabin (or whatever it will be) :rolleyes:

So I brought it home and ran it through my planer to better see the grain. :eek:

Question I have is, does anyone have any pics of anything they made using tiger maple and how they did the finish that they wouldn't mind sharing?

Thanks:thumb:
 
A coat of oil - linseed or tung - followed by a couple coats of SealCoat® shellac after the oil cures (at least a week), then several coats of your favorite (whatever it is) clear finish will really pop the tiger.

I've done several smaller projects with it that way. I'll try to find some pix later (assuming I still have them).
 
That could be one of the most valuable mantels enneywhere.
Tiger stripe maple is very popular for gunstocks, especially on traditional muzzle loading long rifles.
Finishing methods vary but prep work can be extensive involving scraping with broken glass, wetting, scraping some more and again and again, then sanding with very fine sandpaper. Stripes are enhanced with very dilute nitric acid then stopped with an alkaline solution. Sanded a few more times then a favorite old time 'seecret receit' finish forumula is applied. Very beautiful.
If I were at my own 'puter I would show you a pic of my rifle.
 
While not tiger Maple, here are two close cousins (quilted and Birds eye) on a chair I built.
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Finish is BLO followed by poly.
 

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Hot dawg! Good to see you drop in, Steve. :thumb:

Tiger maple is great with a bit of pretty much any oil finish to pop the grain. It also does well with dyes to highlight the figure. Much like the nitric acid idea Frank mentioned, you can dye it and sand back the color so the dye only remains in the more absorbent parts of the wood. You can do a single color, or layer several complimentary colors, starting with the darkest, and working backwards to the lightest, sanding between each color. Here's a little piece I did recently using black, red, and honey amber Transtint (in that order), sanding back each color as I went, but leaving most of the amber...

June 2010 Paper Clip Bowls - 06  800.jpg June 2010 Paper Clip Bowls - 05  800.jpg
 
Steve,
I built this table a couple of years ago. It's ambrosia maple, curly maple, and purple heart. I followed the recipe that the wood whisperer has on his site. In a nut shell you use a dye in shellac let it dry and they sand with 220. I used honey amber transtint. You then top coat with an oil finish.

Here's a link to the video on Mark's site.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/
 

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Wow :eek: nice looking stuff fellas! Hope the grain looks as nice when I'm done as your projects do.

Chuck and Bill, I'll snap some pics next time I am able to.

Here's something else you guys can let me know what you think of.....I need to make two corbels. I am thinking of 3 options. :huh:

1.) Since the hunk is 9 foot long, cut off 1 foot and use that for the corbels.

2.) I have a hunk of Walnut (from Mr. Ambassadore) that would work and leave it a natural edge facing out. (remember this is going in a hunting/fishing cabin in da north) so a bit of rustic would be ok.

3.) Obtain some cherry for corbels. Natural edge or smooth.....not sure of that yet on any of the corbel choices. :dunno:

One thing I am sure of....it is gonna be HEAVY! Pretty sure I am gonna need help fastening it to the wall....road trip anyone? :D Beer included. :thumb:
 
Nice to see you Steve! :wave:

Holy cow, that is some piece of wood, color me GREEN with envy! :D

I agree on the BLO, I find that it pops really well with BLO, but like Jim said, it needs a while to dry.
 
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