Mortising hinges rookie question

Bob Gibson

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Merrimack, New Hampshire
I usually use a chisel to mortise in my hinges but the desk I'm making need these sewing machine hinges. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1151&tagem=rv
I bought 2 sets because I'm using 3 hinges on the drop front.

I have no clue as to how to mortise them in. I certainly can't do them with a chisel :dunno:
I was thinking of using my router but I have no clue how to make the template. Maybe I should go to a machine shop and have them make one out of a heavy sheet of plastic:dunno: Do I make them the same size as the hinge and use a mortise bit with a bearing :dunno: do I use a bushing and make the template larger by the thickness of the bushing :dunno:
I sure wish I ordered Carol's book. :rofl:
Any help will be really appreciated.
 
Bob, a spiral bit works great for free hand mortising. If you can't do the template, it will let you get really close to the lines and then you can clean up the mortise with chisels.

A spiral bit will cut without pulling the router one direction or another. There are two types, up cut and down. I've been told that the direction is where the frays will be around the edges, so down spiral would probably be the one to use.
 
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What is the diameter? Can you get very close with a Forstner bit? Drill the recesses and then connect them with the chisel(?). This is why I have one gouge in addition to my chisels. For those non-square things that are between Forstners ;-) If the free hand routing idea doesn't sit well, make a template from some hardboard and let that be your guide(?).
 
freehand is pretty much out. I wish I had the talent to do it, but I would most certainly mess it up. I can just see my shakey hands being guided by my stressed out body and have the dog bark or the phone ring :eek::eek::eek::eek: Probably have to restart the desk and pry the router out from the concrete wall:rofl:

I'll check the diameter and see if I have a forstner that matches. I'd try to make a template with that for the rounded part. Any ideas on the best way to size a template :dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
Page 100-101 in my book, my friend.

Here is the condensed version. You will need a special bit, and once you have it, you will use it on every hinge mortise you make. It is 1/2" in diameter, with a cutting length of ~1/2", with a flush bearing on the 1/4" shank.

Bend your hinge over the end of a piece of 1/2" MDF and trace an outline of the hinge. Cut out the shape of the hinge, sanding, filing, whatever, until your hinge fits snugly in the cut out. Add a fence to the edge of the MDF pattern, and mount it slightly lower than the face of MDF.

Install the router bit. Set the depth by stacking the hinge plate on top of a scrap of the MDF. The bit must then be flush with the hinge plate. Clamp your jig against the edge of the workpiece and rout out the mortise. The bit can only go within the confines of the pattern.

You're golden!
 
Forestner Bit of the diameter of the hinge width, then chisel the straight by hand. Why do we think the Router is the Super fixer-uper? Long befor the router was the chisel, etc., etc., enough preaching... I did similar a bunch of years ago... Forestner Bit for the curved part, then use a bench knife score the straight part and the chisel the 3/32" deep flat. Not a Devils Task. :thumb:
 
Forestner Bit of the diameter of the hinge width, then chisel the straight by hand. Why do we think the Router is the Super fixer-uper? Long befor the router was the chisel, etc., etc., enough preaching... I did similar a bunch of years ago... Forestner Bit for the curved part, then use a bench knife score the straight part and the chisel the 3/32" deep flat. Not a Devils Task. :thumb:

i dont think that is the case Mr. Simpson. but in todays world most folk want it fast and hand work isnt there idea of fast.. just like the boards i sanded down for tom a few days ago he didnt look at the plane as making the sander less work.. but now after seeing it do just that he will look at the plane as a tool to make his life easier next time. we all learn from our mistakes and our experiences, till you do it by hand like you mentioned the only way to make something round is with a curve making machine.. and if you have alot of them to do, then the template and router will out do any hand cuttin any time in speed.
 
Sure thing MR MERLAU, the router is great and jig is fine if there were a bunch to perform. But this is just for three and by the time the jig is made and a practice cut is done and all is set up. the chisel will have completed the task. I hate to tell how many used once jigs are piled up under the stairs waiting untill I have a similar task to do.
 
Sure thing MR MERLAU, the router is great and jig is fine if there were a bunch to perform. But this is just for three and by the time the jig is made and a practice cut is done and all is set up. the chisel will have completed the task. I hate to tell how many used once jigs are piled up under the stairs waiting untill I have a similar task to do.

i can imagine have a few myself:thumb:
 
The Forstner bit idea is very good. You say you would have problems but, for me, I would use a chisel and carving gouge. Put the dog out and take phone off hook, give wife credit card and tell her to go somewhere for a while. ;)
I believe each hinge would take only a few minutes. And, I'm not an accomplished Neander type.
 
If I only had two to do, I'd do them by hand as follows:

I'd place the hinge where it's to go, and trace the outline with a marking knife. Then, I'd use a small router (trim router) with a spiral bit and set the depth with the hinge. I'd freehand route the majority of the hinge space with the router.

Then, to clean to the line, I'd use a carving gouge that matches the radius and make downward cuts along my line. I'd clean up the bottom with a regular chisel.

If I had a bunch to do, I'd make a template like Carol suggests and use a bottom cleaning bit with a top bearing. The bit I have is an Amana 45563. It's a 1/2" shank with a 3/4" cutter. If you prefer to use a trim router, you'll have to get an equivalent with a 1/4" shaft. I think the Amana number is 45582.

Mike
 
If I only had two to do, I'd do them by hand as follows:

I'd place the hinge where it's to go, and trace the outline with a marking knife. Then, I'd use a small router (trim router) with a spiral bit and set the depth with the hinge. I'd freehand route the majority of the hinge space with the router.

Then, to clean to the line, I'd use a carving gouge that matches the radius and make downward cuts along my line. I'd clean up the bottom with a regular chisel.

If I had a bunch to do, I'd make a template like Carol suggests and use a bottom cleaning bit with a top bearing. The bit I have is an Amana 45563. It's a 1/2" shank with a 3/4" cutter. If you prefer to use a trim router, you'll have to get an equivalent with a 1/4" shaft. I think the Amana number is 45582.

Mike

do they make 1/4" shank spiral bits mike? and your probally thinking of a 1/4" spiral as well or a larger spiral???
 
Couple of things here.

If your cutter is 3/4" long, the jig material will have to be 3/4" thick as well. The bearing needs a place to ride and the cutter is exposed only to the thickness of the hinge plate.

A pair of hinges requires 4 mortises, each one having to be perfect as they are intended to be very visual.

And yes there is such a thing as 1/4" spiral bits, (though I use 1/4" 2 flute right hand twist end mills - less expensive), but this job is removing so little material that a spiral bit is not needed. Further, where would the bearing go? Unless you are doing this freehand.

And that presents another issue. Your router base will have to be big enough to completely span the mortise at all times, or in addition to staying within the lines, you have the problem of the router tipping as well.

More food for thought.
 
Just a couple of comments. The Amana 45563 has a 3/4" wide cutter, not high. I'd have to go measure mine, but I think the cutter portion is 1/2" high. I have another with a much higher cutter which I use when I need to cut dados (which are deeper than hinge mortises).

If you're cutting a mortise freehand for a big hinge (wide, that is), wide enough that the router could "fall" into the mortise, I don't excavate everything in the mortise. I leave some ridges about 1/8" wide every so often, then clean them up with a chisel. I find if the ridges go cross grain they're easier to clean up. The ridges support the router and prevent it falling into the mortise. Mostly what you want with the router is to get most of the material out and to a precise depth. The ridges don't cause any problems with that. When you chisel out the ridges, you naturally reference to the part you excavated with the router.

[Added note about what Carol posted. Yes, when I do what I described, I handle the router freehand. I go close to the line but clean up to the line with carving tools and chisels. I use a small bit, not the Amana. The Amana is used with a template.]

Of course, you could also put a bigger base on your router but if you're like me, you want to use what you have and not have to stop and do some special thing first.

Although I talked about using a powered router, for most small hinge mortises, I use a router plane and not a powered router. I have a butt mortise plane but mostly prefer a router plane. The butt mortise plane is only good for large mostly square hinges (mortises) - like door hinges.

Mike
 
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