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Twist-Lock vs Normal Plugs and Outlets on 220V Tools

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Douglas Cox

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6
Location
Apex, NC
I was wondering how people felt out using twist-lock (L6-20) plugs vs non twist-lock (6-20) plugs on their mostly-stationary power tools (table saw, bandsaw, jointer, etc)?

The table saw I have came with a 6-20 plug on it, but I need to make it a bit longer so I am debating using twist-locks on a new cable, and the jointer and bandsaw don't have plugs yet. (I haven't figured that reasoning out yet since they're all from Grizzly.)

The outlets I had installed were twist-lock because at the time I thought that would be a bit more secure, but then I started thinking that maybe that's not the best thing of somehow I managed to trip on one or drop a board on one.

Anyway, I was just wondering what people were using and what they thought the pros / cons were? The non twist-lock parts are certainly cheaper, but not by so much that it matters at this point.

Thanks,
-Doug
 
I use twist lock, but all my 220's are drops from the ceiling. A normal plug would not have worked. I've not given it a lot of thought, but your point about tripping over a cord that is solidly connected to the wall gives one reason to speculate.
 
Mine are not twist-lock which I doubt would help me if I tripped over the cord. They fit quite snug and my outlets are all four feet off the ground. I added my own cords and made them long enough for a comfortable service loop so, no guitar-string-tight runs to trip over. As long as the plug and socket meet the requirement, the format is your choice.
 
I don't remember what plug I have but it has a horizontal spade & a vertical spade with the ground between. No twist lock for me. If it can't come out of the plug-in the plug-in can be broken not to mention me falling flat on my face.

When I replace the factory cord I install a 15' cord 2-12 with ground.
 
I use straight NEMA 6-15 plugs on my table saw, jointer, planer and the extension cord that goes to the house. I chose the straight plug option because they were cheaper than the locking ones. The one thing I like about most locking cord plugs and receptacles is the easier grip due to their size. For drop lines you can't beat the locking NEMA L6-15 or L6-20 fixtures.

Another thing to consider is that portable generators usually only take the locking fixtures. That is why contractors usually carry locking extension cords and pigtails.
 
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You got a problem with them falling out? Overhead plugs, they are great. normal use plugs they are a pain in the tushie. Costs too much, difficult to lock in, just a royal pain..... But then, that is my opinion.
 
Dan Gonzales said:
I use straight NEMA 5-15 plugs on my table saw, jointer, planer and the extension cord that goes to the house. I believe chose the straight plug option because they were cheaper than the locking ones. The one thing I like about most locking cord plugs and receptacles is the easier grip due to their size. For drop lines you can't beat the locking NEMA L6-15 or L6-20 fixtures.

Another thing to consider is that portable generators usually only take the locking fixtures. That is why contractors usually carry locking extension cords and pigtails.
Click to expand...

My portable generator, a Coleman Powermate uses the non twist type, That why I went with then in the shop, I have a double ended cord so I can back feed the power panel in the event of a loss of power through the shop.
 
Having worked for Hubbell Wiring Device Division for 15 years, I hope I still remember some of this.

1. Don a "L"1420R, P, C is a locking device. That is what the "L" designates. A 1420(R,P,C) are non-locking.

The reason a twistlock (or locking) device was designed for use where:

1. you wanted to make sure that you had constant power as in a freezer.
2. As someone mentioned, on a drop cord, so,if you bumped it or disturbed in any other way, the plug wouldn't fall out of the receptacle/ connector body. (Make sure it's fully ingaged, otherwise it could burn out.)

Pros - stated above.

Cons - Cost. T/L's are much more expensive. I have been away too long to comment on quality difference - it used to be night and day.

You might look at Hubbell's site, as well as Leviton and Pass & Seymour since that it what you will find at the BORK. Hubbell is available through Electrical Distribution and Grainger.

Hope this helps.

BTW, Jim. I see you like the GOOD stuff! At least I hope so. There is only ONE Twist Lock. Anybody care to guess the manufacturer?

Bruce
 
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You don't have to twist a locking plug in order for it to work, just to lock it in.

NEMA 6-15P (straight plug, 15 A, 250 V rating)
NEMA 6-15P.jpg


NEMA L6-15P (locking plug, 15 A, 250 V rating)
NEMA L6-15P.jpg
 
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Sorry Dan. You DON"T want to do that! you are NOT getting Full Contact. IT CAN cause a Fire. I don't want to hear about you're trying to rebuild your shop after the fire ruined all your tools.

If you don't believe me, talk to an industrial electrician. also look at how much of the plug is actually making contact - just the jutting out part of the flag.

If I still have a set, I'll cut them so you can see. That way you don't haave to destroy one.

I'm serious here. I don't make any money on this or any thing else. I have seen heavy industrial plants burned to the ground from it, so, PLEASE twist them and stop letting on everythings all right if you don't.

Thanks,

Bruce
 
Hey Bruce,

I meant my statement to bear on what Don said about "walked over and pulled it out". That there would still be power running through the connection whether it was locked in or not.

Out of habit I have always twisted and locked this type of plug and receptacle.

Interestingly even though having plugged in thousands of this type of connection installing large computer servers and ancillary equipment I have never been told or recall reading about the smaller point of contact by not twisting and locking. I mean tens of thousands of times plugging and unplugging L6-15, L6-20 and L6-30 connections. After reading your first post I meant to start researching the hazard of not twisting and locking. If you have illustrations/documentation I would like to see it (and share it with my peers).
 
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All three of my 220 machines are twist lock. Two from the ceiling, the band saw from the wall. But the BS backs up to the wall, so if you can trip on that cord, you have other things to worry about!! :rofl::rofl:
Other 220 outlets that aren't in use, yet, have regular non locking outlets. Jim.
 
I ended up using 4-conductor twist locks in my shop because I got a good deal on plugs and outlets. They're wired like a regular 3-conductor setup...I just left one of the conductors empty. One of the outlets is in the ceiling, and the other's about 4 1/2' off the floor next to the breaker box. Both outlets have 15' extension cords with dual outlets at the end. (The only time I'm using both outlets at once are when I'm running the lathe and the vacuum pump. The pump has a 1/4 HP motor, so it's not pulling many amps at all.) My compressor requires a 40 amp circuit, so it's hardwired with a nearby disconnect box (as well as the breaker, of course).
 
Don Baer said:
My portable generator, a Coleman Powermate uses the non twist type, That why I went with then in the shop, I have a double ended cord so I can back feed the power panel in the event of a loss of power through the shop.
Click to expand...

Don, in the event of a power outage you "Back Feed" power into the panel?

Do I understand this to mean that you have power flow from the generator through a regular outlet on the wall somewhere so that all the circuits in your workshop, or house have power?

If that is true, I sure hope you turn the main breaker off at the service, so that your house is isolated from the grid completely, because if you don't do that, some lineman up on a boom truck fixing the problem could get killed. There are also some other issues dealing with how the one outlet is hooked up to the panel and how the 240v from the generator gets fed in and becomes 120v etc.

If it was me, I'd just use extension cords, or I'd spend the money and get a transfer switch installed.

FYI :wave:
 
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