Non Mandrel bushings?

Jim Burr

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Someone posted a link to a guy in Canada that sold several types of non-mandrel bushings. I bought some for Jr Gent's and Cigar's and was trying to get more info about the other mechanics's involved. Les said he didn't post it...anyone have a clue...I'm kinda lost?:huh::huh:
 
That's the guy. My question is what is needed for the head drive? I have a 60 degree tail stock and a spur drive for the head. I'm seeing an issue with friction and no grab on the head side. Ideas?:doh::huh::huh:
 
I have a 60' dead center for the head stock. I've turned a few blanks that way with no bushing, but it is dangerous. Too much pressure and you expand the tubes. Anyway you want a 60' dead center for the head stock. I can't remember where I got mine but I'm sure woodcraft, PSI or one of those types will have them, fact I bet JohnnyCNC has them on his site.

Here they are:

http://penturnersproducts.com/index...bce0487ca812fbb072c4a9f10&keyword=dead+center
 
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johnnycnc has a reputation for quality. Aside from that, I don't see much difference between his offerings and regular 'no mandrel' turning.
Hi Frank; I'm guessing by "no mandrel turning", you are inserting the live & dead centers directly into the brass tube of the pen blank. This method to my way of thinking would have a tendency to expand the tube especially at the nib end as you turn down the wood.

Johnnycnc's bushings are inserted into the brass tube as well as are drilled out to 60° centres (no mandrel possible). This puts pressure around the outside rim of the brass tube with no danger of expanding the tube at either end.

This description is all very clear to me; I have no idea if I have clearly explained it to you!:dunno:
 
Hi Frank; I'm guessing by "no mandrel turning", you are inserting the live & dead centers directly into the brass tube of the pen blank. This method to my way of thinking would have a tendency to expand the tube especially at the nib end as you turn down the wood.

Johnnycnc's bushings are inserted into the brass tube as well as are drilled out to 60° centres (no mandrel possible). This puts pressure around the outside rim of the brass tube with no danger of expanding the tube at either end.

This description is all very clear to me; I have no idea if I have clearly explained it to you!:dunno:

Nope. I use the bushings but no mandrel. For final sizing down to bushing size without the bushing I do remove it. I am very careful not to use too much pressure at that point.
(BTW, this is my most frequently posted pic. I have used it here several times and the pen forums love it.)
 

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Nope. I use the bushings but no mandrel. For final sizing down to bushing size without the bushing I do remove it. I am very careful not to use too much pressure at that point.
(BTW, this is my most frequently posted pic. I have used it here several times and the pen forums love it.)
Hi Frank; What you are really describing as I know it in the penturning world is bushing to bushing turning. Maybe it's just semantics!

The difference between regular bushings (stamped steel) and johnnycnc's bushings (cnc metal lathe turned) are a guarantee of perfect roundness which I have found to not be the case in some stamped bushings.

Your mileage may vary though!
 
If I understand you Mack, the stamped/mandrel bushings fit against the end of the tube and everything slides on the mandrel's "axle". Some bushings for the larger pens and items do fit inside the tube yet push against the end of the tube as well as slide on the axle of the mandrel. So the bushings you use for mandrelless (no mandrel) turning basically are stepped bushings that can easily be solid metal as long as they have a center dimple for the centers (be they live or dead). Thus the bushings fit into the tubes, push against the end of the tubes, fit between the tailstock and head of the lathe, no mandrel used/nor could one be used if you wanted to with these bushings.
Even though I have never turned without a mandrel, is this the process?
Personally, I have not had problems unless it were man made by me, so will stay at this time with my mandrel as I already have hundreds of sets of bushings!!
 
If I understand you Mack, the stamped/mandrel bushings fit against the end of the tube and everything slides on the mandrel's "axle". Some bushings for the larger pens and items do fit inside the tube yet push against the end of the tube as well as slide on the axle of the mandrel. So the bushings you use for mandrelless (no mandrel) turning basically are stepped bushings that can easily be solid metal as long as they have a center dimple for the centers (be they live or dead). Thus the bushings fit into the tubes, push against the end of the tubes, fit between the tailstock and head of the lathe, no mandrel used/nor could one be used if you wanted to with these bushings.
Even though I have never turned without a mandrel, is this the process?
Personally, I have not had problems unless it were man made by me, so will stay at this time with my mandrel as I already have hundreds of sets of bushings!!
Hi Jonathon; You have described the situation exactly.

Now consider Frank's photo, he is turning mandrel less with bushings meant for a mandrel. No reason why you need the mandrel, unless you want to turn both pieces of a pen at once. I'm not in that much of a hurry, so I just turn one piece at a time.
 
I don't have any of the mandrel-less bushing. I'd like to have them but I don't turn enough pens to justify paying for them.

I only turn one blank at a time though even when I use a mandrel because the shorter the mandrel the truer it runs, least that is my theory.

I've turned using no mandrel, just the bushing, with success but it started wearing a ring on my centers. I didn't think that was a good thing.
 
I don't have any of the mandrel-less bushing. I'd like to have them but I don't turn enough pens to justify paying for them.

I only turn one blank at a time though even when I use a mandrel because
the shorter the mandrel the truer it runs, least that is my theory.
Hi Paul; I'd be inclined to agree with your theory!

I've turned using no mandrel, just the bushing, with success but it started wearing a ring on my centers. I didn't think that was a good thing.
Something I do with bushings when I don't have the equivalent mandrel-less bushing is to take a 60° #4 centre drilling bit, and drill into the bushing to provide it with a dimple that will have more surface are to engage the live and dead centres.
 
I don't have any of the mandrel-less bushing. I'd like to have them but I don't turn enough pens to justify paying for them.

I only turn one blank at a time though even when I use a mandrel because the shorter the mandrel the truer it runs, least that is my theory.

I've turned using no mandrel, just the bushing, with success but it started wearing a ring on my centers. I didn't think that was a good thing.

No special bushings. Just stick a 60 degree dead center in the head stock for drive and a 60 degree live center in the tail end, apply some pressure but not too much and turn.
Your theory is right on. That is what I do with 7mm pens. The no-mandrel method is for all other (larger tube) pens in which the bushing fits inside the tube.
 
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