storage needed in unused space

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Houston, Texas
Just happens one of my clients wanted to make use of what seemed like dead wall space in an area where storage would be a real asset. The area below this glass display area is the chosen target for DESTRUCTION!!!!!!!
bobanddonna (450 x 600).jpg

First, got to see if the space is free of pipes, probably the biggest deterrent to cost effective storage. This area backs up to the garage :D and there are lower cabinets in the garage against that wall. With no back! YES!! Tap for studs within the garage cabinet cavity behind the area targeted for DESTRUCTION, cut 8" x 8" hole with jab saw, exercising caution not to inadvertently cut into a tightly stretched electric wire and doing my best to save in perfect condition, my presently being cut sheetrock patch.:D . It was clean in there and other than the usual wire and ill placed studs it was good to go.
Shaz
 
I cut a hole from stud to stud on the front side within the confines of the area I was sure would be taken up by the new doored storage cabinet. I sometimes put off doing jobs like this because it seems more of a favor than something I would choose to do. As time goes by several options occur. AVOID IT and any phone calls from said person :rofl: , Wait for them to call :rolleyes: ( hoping they won't :D ) and be embarrassed enough to set a time and go git r done :thumb: , or... be blessed with an inspiration that pleases them and allows me the joy of turning a once considered mundane chore into a piece worth trying to have fun with. I always hope for the third option rather than telling the person " There is no way on God's green earth in a pasture covered with golden eggs could I ever find the energy or the desire to do this job for you even for the eggs and the pasture!
But fortunately, with these nice laid back folks an inspiration came, no hole with doors and trim, no, not for my people...:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: (I love these little laughers) :rofl: So I presented them with these, which I won't mind doing.
B and D drawings (429 x 600).jpg
"Pick one of these, or, we can get really jiggy"! I await their input..
:wave: Shaz
 
I actually like all three, but I have to admit, the bottom right one is the most pleasing to the eye.

I'm sure whatever you do will look great! :thumb:

Cheers!
 
shaz, i like the bottom right with the plinth blocks from the top left.....tod
Hi Tod, Thanks for your input and for the mix and match feed back as that is where I take the client. I believe that would be nice with the long thinner plinth blocks.

I agree with Tod.

SO will this new cabinet cut into the space of the old one? Replace the existing one?
Hi Dave, actually the drawings you see offer options to fill the sheet rock space directly below the glass display, after I have removed the existing bottom apron or sill or casing
I actually like all three, but I have to admit, the bottom right one is the most pleasing to the eye.

I'm sure whatever you do will look great! :thumb: Hi Stu, Thanks for the encouragement, it is nice to have your opinion, of course right now it is up the the "HOMEOWNER":eek:

Cheers!
One last note, one I think important, if you have a woodworking job you don't want to do be cause it is no fun, picture it with flutes, handmade molding, or an arch, it may change your attitude about doing it, not always but sometimes.:thumb:
Shaz :wave:
 
Hi Shaz,

I agree with the others on the bottom left sketch. Are the doors arched? Cant wait for the WIP pics! :thumb:

I agree with you that arches, columns, flutes and such add interest to the project. I am framing an exterior entry door with fluted columns and a lintel(?) board instead of an arch because of space. I was trying to figure out how to make the 5 1/2" rosettes, since all of the rosette cutters come in 4" size and smaller. Then I remembered, Oh Yea! I just bought a lathe!:doh: It's nice to figure out how to do something and even better when the clients are happy and excited about the work!
 
Shaz

We're having a violent agreement here! I like the one everyone else likes as well!

Are you going to build a box/cabinet with the face frame wide enought to cover the drywall cut and slide it in place or just build a face frame/doors and adhere it to the drywall after building out the cabinet area inside the studs?

Jay
 
Hi Shaz,

I agree with the others on the bottom left sketch. Are the doors arched? Cant wait for the WIP pics! :thumb: Hi Ed, :wave:
Thanks for your IMO.:rofl: Had to throw that in as most of the Capital letter things like BORG and Damhkint or what ever I can't usually figure out.:D :dunno: I got the LOML but what is the :rolleyes: can't even remember. Need a Thread of acronynms for me at least, Oh Oh Got it! WIP is work in progress! YES...
No the doors are not arched but could have been. or if that is what LOLA WANTS then that is what LOLA GETS, they may be arched before it's done.

I agree with you that arches, columns, flutes and such add interest to the project. I am framing an exterior entry door with fluted columns and a lintel(?) board instead of an arch because of space. I was trying to figure out how to make the 5 1/2" rosettes, since all of the rosette cutters come in 4" size and smaller. Then I remembered,(Called a revelation :rofl: ) Oh Yea! I just bought a lathe!:doh: It's nice to figure out how to do something and even better when the clients are happy and excited about the work! Congratulations , that is a good thing:D Ed, if you can, show us your Rosettes, i'd like to see your solution..:thumb: .[/quote]

Shaz

We're having a violent agreement here! I like the one everyone else likes as well! Well I guess that settles it , I will call the client and tell them to butt out of our project!!!!!!!:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Are you going to build a box/cabinet with the face frame wide enought to cover the drywall cut and slide it in place or just build a face frame/doors and adhere it to the drywall after building out the cabinet area inside the studs? A good question Jay. Upon first look my intent was to build it out in the hole and cover with flush doors set in a frame. That would have led to a butt whoopin cause of the close quarters and stud irregularity. I intend to build the box as you said, case it out and hang the doors before I cut the hole, then make provisions to secure it when installed, slide it in, like a pre-hung door, secure it and trim it out.
Gonna be a fun one.:type: Hi Jay :wave:
Shaz

Jay
With some slight modifications these could be fun little stand alone cabinets, or full height armoires.:rolleyes:
 
The clients have decided, evidently no surprise, " the bottom drawing" as can be seen in post # 2. Now comes figuring out how to build it.
It will be painted when finished to fit the surroundings. I need to ask about the bullseye rossette as nowhere else is there anything like it.
Shaz
 
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There are some important things to document in this situation. Width of the existing casing "A", the height from the floor to the shelf surface "B",and the position of a stud "S", that exists, that might possibly be used for attachment of the box, were the things I felt important to me.b n d specs.jpg
From there I became focused on the way the individual parts of the design would touch each other so as not to be too thick with one piece and too thin with another.BandD 008.jpg
Both photos have their merit for consideration. The first for size constraints and design, the second for aesthetically pleasing relationships, one piece to another.
 
First thing needed was the size for the box itself, above the plate below the header, and wide enough to have max storage and still allow for trim left and right. After cutting an exploratory hole in the front large enough to gather all the necessary info, the box was made, with a shelf mid way, with a cutout for better viewing of things on the bottom shelf and for storage of taller bottles. Next was to do the trim for the hinge side of the doors consisting of the little bracket, ( making brackets.jpg )top and bottom,dark green, 1" , the red connector,( connector strip.jpg )7/8" and the 3/4" filler with a slight ease of the edge,the yellow strip next to the larger door slab.door edge molding.jpgdrawing sizes.jpg.
 

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Looking at what you have done so far, that's going to be a real nice looking cabinet. The columns and filler strips look great! Thanks for posting the pics!
 
Looking at what you have done so far, that's going to be a real nice looking cabinet. The columns and filler strips look great! Thanks for posting the pics!
Thanks Ed, Always appreciate your input. :wave:
Is the colored drawing with the legend any help?
The next thing was to determine the finished height of the doors, which was 3/16" less than the inside to inside height of the box. This done, the door width needed measured. I figured 5/16" less than the inside to inside width of the box as the total width for the two doors, 1/8" in between the doors and 1/16" on the hinge side plus 1/16" to play with as needed. Now make the columns with secured bracket that height and measure the width of the column finished, subtract that size from each door and I have the size needed to cut the slab for each door.
 
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Looking real great so far Shaz :thumb: :thumb:

Don't screw up the door size.;) :eek: :doh: :D
 
Is the colored drawing with the legend any help?

Once I figured out what you were doing, the colored drawing was a help. I had to put it together with the actual unit though. Was the cripple stud over far enough? I know you said you would be able to secure the box to the stud, but I wasn't sure if you were going to have to move it. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished unit! I'm sure your clients will be very pleased!
 
Once I figured out what you were doing, the colored drawing was a help. I had to put it together with the actual unit though. Was the cripple stud over far enough? After cutting the hole in the sheet rock I decided that it ( the Stud ) was far enough over on the left side that I could add a stud on the right side equal distance from the C point, have enough storage and allow for a substantial but not overwhelming size for the casing to the doors.:D I know you said you would be able to secure the box to the stud, but I wasn't sure if you were going to have to move it. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished unit! I'm sure your clients will be very pleased!
Hi Ed, :wave:
If they are not pleased I'll just buy them some diamonds and pearls, Then they will be happy!:rofl:
Doors made and mounted with 35mm, Super 110 degree Salice hinges. Good for lip mold doors too. Then since I wanted to mount the whole box like a prehung door, with casing attached, I added some extra long 1/2" baltic birch strips as underlayment to the real casing,( real casing is the blue colored piece in the drawing), the real casing was about 2"x 1 1/8" with a let out in the back to accept the 1/2"x 1 1/2" pre casing. Make sense?bandd box.jpg
With that nailed to the exact inside edge of the plywood box I was able to determine the exact width of my elliptical arch piece. I knew the height from the top of the door to the top of the shelf so, with a 3/4" trim above the door and a pre determined thickness for the trim of the shelf itself I could determine the proportion for my arch.
half ellipse.jpg I usually do my arches in halves plus run out, then flip over and do the other side, then I have a pattern.ellipse done.jpgBandD 008.jpg You can see a crosscut of the real casing with the let out just under the left side of the fully completed ellipse. I had some mahogany so I used it for the casing. Once painted they will never know the difference!:rofl: :rofl: A painted up grade!:eek: :D :rofl:
 
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box with doors.jpgOkay, this is where we are. with the 1/2" ply sub casing in place I could dry fit the arch, shop dry fit.jpg and after squeeze clamping the mahogany casing to the left side dry fit arch and casing.jpgI could determine two more dimensions.
Can you guess what they are from the drawing?drawing sizes.jpg
I then needed to make the trim for above the doors, now that I had my arch made and fit.(you can see it installed in the photo with the dry fit of the casing shown above )
molding above doors.jpgmolding above door1.jpgmolding above door 2.jpg
 
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