Question about Metal Roofing

Brent Dowell

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Reno NV
Planning on putting a metal roof on my shed that I'm building.

Questions for you guys that have done this (Ned, Ken).

1) Where did you get the roofing?
2) Any tips for installing it?
 
I hope that you are talking about galvanized steel not copper roofing
 
Just looking for the cheapest stuff that will keep the rain out. Don't need a lot since it's just for a little ole shed...

I'll take a look next time I'm there Don. Thanks!
 
Just looking for the cheapest stuff that will keep the rain out. Don't need a lot since it's just for a little ole shed...

I'll take a look next time I'm there Don. Thanks!

As a former Installation Director for Lowe's, let me throw my 2 cents out there for you.

Disadvantages:

Metal roofs generally cost a lot more than asphalt. But that is usually offset by the fact that most metal roofs last between 30 and 50 years, if it is installed correctly. Next is the noise level. When a heavy rainstorm hits, it will sound like a Marine is on your roof with an M-60 on full auto....yes they are that loud. Some people learn to live with it. Next is denting and scratches. This really becomes important when you decide to get a color roof. Most color roofs are NOT color clear through....so you see the dents and scratches. these dents and scratches need to be touched up ASAP, for obvious reasons. Next is walking on the roof....in short...you will not be doing that...ever!

Advantages:

It will probably be the last roof you ever buy for the home. It is not unusual for a properly installed metal roof to last between 30 and 50 years. Metal roofs also carry a class A fire rating that should get you a discount on your homeowners insurance. Metal roofs also go up very quickly due to their nature. Metals roofs are insect, snow, and mold resistant as well.

Now the million dollar question....would I buy one?...damn straight I would...and I did. Living on the coast almost dictates that you get one. I paid extra to get a better underlayment and I am glad I did. It is still noisy, but I will never have to worry about hails, bugs, mold etc ever again.

Hope that helps.....but remember especially with metal roofs....it is ALWAYS in the way it is installed. A metal roof that is not installed right will never last.

One last thing...I ended uo putting in 2 power attic ventilators to get rid of the extra heat in the attic after the install. And I am glad I did!

Good luck to you Brent:thumb:
 
Ok if you want top shelf find this stuff http://www.fabral.com/product.php?id=22
This stuff aint bad either http://www.abcmetalroofing.com/panels_imperialrib.html
If you sheath the roof (not needed for metal roof) use this stuff between the roof deck and the metal http://store.guttersdirect.com/rotopguiiun5.html
Get and read the installation instructions you do not know how to install it so don't even think you do until you have read the instructions. Don't second guess the instructions they are right and they are right for a reason.:thumb:
All those other other trim parts serve a purpose use them. Mastic was made for a reason that reason is to be used on your roof. :thumb::rofl: Yes 2 foot on center is adequate spacing for the purlings on your new roof. No 1x's are not thick enough for purlings.
Put your purlings on with a string so that when you drill the panels for the screws they actually hit the purlings all the way down the roof.
No don't just stop at the borg and buy panels that are to long. They cost the same or less to have them made to fit just what you need.
Biggest mistakes I catch driving by a new metal roof
1 Not screwed right (says right there in the instructions how and where) most people can't read.
2 Panels ordered too short ( can see the splice that was added on to get it under the ridge.
3 Panels lapped backwards. They only go one way and they lap that way for a reason.
4 No trim - no trim means the rated wind load has not been achieved.
5 Screwed in the high rib. To date Morton is the only roof that is designed to be screwed in the high rib that I have seen.
6 Roofing cut with a saw - never cut roofing with a saw.
7 Saw toothed roofing install. When the ends of the panels don't line up.
 
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Gee, I always wanted a metal roof...because of the noise. We only get a couple of storms a year and I'd love to be able to hear every single rain drop.

I'm hoping when we replace our patio roof next year we use metal as well.

For you with just a few storms a year it could take awhile. But for me you never even realize that it is raining.:thumb:
And really the only noises metal roof is one that has no underlayment and no ceiling between the roof and the space one is occupying. A metal roof on a house with underlayment and a properly insulated ceiling can barely be heard in side the living space.
Just one more thought.
If you are going to hire a contractor too install your new metal roof. Get the insulation instruction book and read it. That way at least one person on your job will know how it is supposed to be installed.
 
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Brent,

Go to your local lumber yard with your roof dimensions and have them order\cut it for you. If you find the right place, there will be no cost difference (per SQFT), but there will be a HUGE difference when installing. I hate cutting that stuff and to be honest it is such a pain unless you have very large shears.

I own several what they call exposed fastener metal roofs and to be honest at some point they will leak. These fasteners have little gaskets that seat against the metal and keep the water out. Over time they break down (sun, rain, etc.) and leak. You don't hear about this very often but it will happen. Don't get me wrong, metal roofs are great, but you will want to keep an eye on them at about 10-15 years and make sure the screws are put in flat (!). Either that or go with what is called a "standing seam" metal roof - the fasteners are hidden (2x - 3x the cost - ouch!).

just my 2 cents...
Doug
 
Brent, I think it's a great idea. Couple of points -
use 1 1/2" long screws, even if you're going into 1" purlins, they hold better.
There is a molding, I forget what it's called that covers the edges, gives better rain control and a nice finished look. I did not use them though, I had some L shaped trim I used.

You need to keep your dimensions very close to stock sizes, unless the vendor can cut it for you. A rip cut is way harder than a crosscut on that stuff. I used both an aviation shear and a big old scissor type shear.

Other than what Ned gave me, I bought mine at the borg. You might look on craigslist though, I've seen some surplus for sale there that might do very well, and save you some money.

As for the noise, I have it on my 24 x 36 pole barn. My shop is insulated from the upper level, and it is quiet in there. Up in the attic, it's noticeable, but not overly loud, and I like the sound of rain on a metal roof. What's really a cool sound is when the snow, 12" thick avalanches off. I don't think you'll have that though.
 
I hate cutting that stuff and to be honest it is such a pain unless you have very large shears.

Might be some differences in sidings, but we used to use a utility knife and just score a good line, then bend the metal over a 2x4 with a clamp on each end of the board to hold the score over the edge of the 2x4. The stuff was, I guess brittle enough, that it just snapped on the score.
 
Rob said:
If you are going to hire a contractor too install your new metal roof. Get the insulation instruction book and read it. That way at least one person on your job will know how it is supposed to be installed.

Yea, yea to that. When a large luxury home was being built near us I watched it's progress. The metal roof had a large section installed and torn off twice. After the second installation we had a heavy rain. Soon after it was redone.
 
Great advice guys. :thumb: Thanks!

I'll be going into town probably tomorrow, so I'll get the specs on what the Borg has available.

I've got the materials to start building the roof trusses, and will be picking up the rest of the lumber for framing up the walls.
 
Yup, Building this thing from the top down so if it rains or snows I have somewhere to work! :rofl:



But seriously, it makes sense to use the flat concrete as a platform to build the trusses first, then put up the walls, then put the trusses on the walls.
 
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