How to turn a tool handle?

Brent Dowell

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With my relative success in making the ember rake last week (The rake I made I used 1/2" stock which was too heavy), I thought I might go ahead and make a set of tools for the fireplace (Ember Rake, Poker, Shovel).

But I don't think I really did it the right way. The end of the handle I really didn't finish off very well.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to turn a tool handle? Since I'll be turning 3 of them, I thought it might make sense to do it the right way.

I did prepare 5 blanks today, so hopefully I can get 3 good handles. This time I'll use 3/8" steel and make each tool 30" from base to tip.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Hey Brent!
1st...your ember rake was great!!:thumb::thumb:
2nd...Do you routinely make turning tool handles?:huh::huh:
3rd...Do you know...or have you ever owned a turning handle you felt to be superior to whatever it was that you made...and do you have said proof in your hand at this moment??:eek::eek:
Case dismissed!! :D:D
Chances are that it was made from end-grain fiber...good luck making that look pretty:D:D A lot of sanding s involved and usually some bad words...coffee ingestion and LOML comments not in favor of or work :doh::doh:
 
Thanks Jeff!

That all makes sense but I feel like I'm doing something wrong when I get to the final step of parting end of the handle off of the blank.

I'd like to get a perfectly smooth rounded end to the tool, but as I start to work it down, it usually breaks off before I finish. Then I have to move to sanding the end of it by hand with sandpaper. Or is that the normal way to do it?
 
I agree with Darren, I think to get a great finish on th end you would find it worth while to make a little steady rest. The other option is to do what I do and hold it towards the unsupported end with one had and sand with the other as the lathe is on, a slow speed.
 
No steady rest. Would that help for something like this?

Hmm, Might have to review the archives and put something together...
 
I haven’t turned a lot of handles but when I did, I drilled and turned the ferrule end first. Then it was held with a cone in the tailstock. When parting off (next to the headstock) you may try using a skew, making V cuts, and then slowly rounding it over. You should get a very smooth finish (quite unlike using a parting tool). Do not part off exactly at the end or you may get a divot in the wood. Bring it down to about 1/8 inch or less and leave a little stub attached to the wood. You can then cut off the stub with a chisel or pocketknife and it takes very little sanding.
Some people also use an upholstery tack in the end but others think this is cheating.:dunno:
 
Brent, you can do the same thing with a detail spindle gouge...much easier than the skew for me...but if you have the paitence to learn how to use a skew, go for it. I don't. :eek::doh:
 
I haven’t turned a lot of handles but when I did, I drilled and turned the ferrule end first. Then it was held with a cone in the tailstock. When parting off (next to the headstock) you may try using a skew, making V cuts, and then slowly rounding it over. You should get a very smooth finish (quite unlike using a parting tool). Do not part off exactly at the end or you may get a divot in the wood. Bring it down to about 1/8 inch or less and leave a little stub attached to the wood. You can then cut off the stub with a chisel or pocketknife and it takes very little sanding.
Some people also use an upholstery tack in the end but others think this is cheating.:dunno:

I'll second this method. :thumb: It's the way I've done the few handles I've made.
 
Jim Bradley just wrote up an article for building one...

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=20577&highlight=steady+rest

Hint: Hit the thrift store and look for some used roller blades for donor wheels.

Hi,

The steady rest works fine. It has one flaw. It works fine unless you are trying to steady a piece with a large diameter...The lower wheel unit hits the base before the wheel unit is fully retracted.

It has two aggrevations. It is inconvenient to attach to the lathe. You have to put your hand under the bed to align the hold down block. It is really crowded at the head of the bolt use to tighten the unit to the lathe.

I put a quarter inch earth magnet near each end of the hold down cross piece. This automatically turns the crosspiece to the proper location once it has been passed down between the ways.

The room at the bolt head can be solved either one of two ways. First way: Move the lower left wheel unit up a few degrees. This will allow it to move further away from the turning center. This is the also the way you solve the flaw mentioned in paragraph one.

The second way: Cut the rectangular area at the bolt head so that it is wider (2 inches or more). Also cut it deeper to give more vertical room for the wrench.

I am building a second unit and taking more pics. It is, unfortunately, going a bit slow. For example Glenn and Debbie are visiting tomorrow so writing a tutorial will be far from my mind (Glenn will probably make me clean my shop somewhat.). I had a bad fall and I just plain move slowly (when I can move) at this point.

The second unit will be as simple to construct as the first one. The text is a bit more verbose because I am trying to make the tutorial more generic. I try to explain how to make it for YOUR lathe, I also give the dimensions for my particular unit. The concept behind the design was KISS.

Do remember, the larger the wheels the larger the minimum size wood it will work with. You can draw three circles that just touch each other. Try one inch circles and try two inch circles---notice how the space for the wood enlarges. The wood has to be large enough in diameter that it will touch all three wheels or you get no steadying.

It will be done. The text part is pretty well done. The building is started and some photos have been taken. This should be a much clearer and hopefully more logical presentation than the first write-up.

It will be done, however it will be a few days.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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