Cherry Blanket Chest Finished !!

Bob Gibson

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Merrimack, New Hampshire
I found these plans in a 1998 issue of Woodsmith magazine. It's almost exactly what my wife has been asking me to build for her.

The chest part is supposed to me around 11" deep but I'm going to make it 16" so it sits taller and has more storage. The plans call for the kickplate to be glued in a rabbet cut on the bottom of the drawer panel. This seems a bit flimsy to me so I'm going to add biscuits to the joint plus corner blocks on the inside of the miters.

I'm building it opposite of the way I usually would. I would normally start the storage box first. But I'm unsure on how I'll make the dovetail joints. I've been searching CL for the Prazi Chestmate dovetail jig but haven't found one yet.

I bought 70bf of 4/4 common cherry. at $2.15 per bf. Less 5% because I brought my lumber guy a large Dunkin Donuts Pumpkin Spice coffee:D
He was kind of low on the cherry so it will probably take all 70bf to get what I need. Around 50bf.

Here are a few pictures. I've made progress since I took these. I've started on the drawers but not the case.
As usual I'm open to all suggestions and criticisms. That's how I learn.
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100_3841 (600 x 400) cherry.jpg

100_3840 (600 x 400) bf.jpg

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100_3838 (600 x 400) kickplates.jpg

100_3837 (600 x 400) 1panel.jpg

100_3835 (600 x 400) drawer base.jpg
 
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Looking forward to seeing this one as it progresses, Bob. :thumb:

BTW, I'm seriously envious of the price you East Coast guys pay for domestic hardwoods like cherry. Plain cherry around here would probably be closer to $8 per board foot. :doh:
 
Looks like it's going to be a great looking chest Bob.

Vaughn, The attached price list is a couple of months old from the guy I use...
 

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One comment Bob is I always make my drawers last that way I can fit them to whatever piece I am building and get a better fit. JMHO

I agree Don. In this case (I'll take pics tonight) the drawer unit is built complete and then the case in added. Kind of confusing to explain. Once I post the pictures of it dry fit maybe you can give me some ideas about doing it better.
Thanks
 
Maybe these will make my lousy explanation a bit clearer. It did for me anyway :rofl:

First is the drawer compartment. The drawer sizes are pretty well set now.
The second is the kick plate. I was going to spline the joints but Larry gave me a better idea that may work. The top of the kick plate fits into this rabbet under the drawer compartment. Larry also gave me an idea about making it more sturdy. Attaching basically a support nailer behind it. I will add support blocks in the corners when I put it together.
Last pic is the top of the drawer compartment. Also it will be the bottom of the chest. I'm going to put cedar strips in each section.



100_3844 (600 x 400)drawer.jpg

100_3845 (600 x 400)kick plate.jpg

100_3847 (600 x 400) rabbet.jpg

100_3848 (600 x 400) cedar.jpg
 
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Hopefully I can start the finish today. Going to use shellac.

It came out pretty good. As usual many small mistakes that gave me headaches trying to fix or make less noticeable anyway:rolleyes:

I usually made drawers with half blind dovetails but decided to make through dovetails and fix the front to the drawer box. The dovetails made on my Rockler jig came out perfect. Not sure which method I like best. Through dovetails are easier to make. Much less set up time.

I used the Prazzi Chestmate jig for the chest box. Mostly pleased with it. It was the only cost effective jig that would let me use 16" wide boards. The original design was for an 11" box but I wanted it taller. I practiced on some scrap before doing the dovetails but didn't realize that by putting the dovetails only 1" apart, as I did for the first 3 on top and bottom, would nip the tips of the pins :doh::doh::doh::eek:. Had to go to the old stand by wood filler to fix them.
All in all I like the Chestmate jig. Just wish I practiced a bit more first.
I found 3 antique drawer pulls in a box in my garage. I took them off an old dresser probably 30 years ago. I'm not sure if I should clean them up or leave them as is:dunno:
Since the lid extends past the back by almost 1/2" I needed 3" hinges. They are pretty beefy and heavy. I think they will work out pretty well. It was fun cutting the mortises for them. The cedar is obviously only on the bottom. I thought about bringing it up the sides but decided I liked this look.:dunno:

As usual, I like all comments either good or bad and welcome suggestions on how I can do things better. Thanks for looking.

100_3871 (600 x 400)drawers.jpg

100_3873 (600 x 400)cedar.jpg

100_3875 (600 x 400) front drawers.jpg

100_3877 (600 x 400)top.jpg

100_3878 (600 x 400)pulls.jpg

100_3879 (600 x 400)hinges.jpg
 
Bob, from where I'm sitting it looks good. I like the design. The DTs look good, I can't make out the filler. I like your older hardware looking older, so I don't think brightening them up is necessary. Is there any way to patch the DTs with solid wood rather than filler? Might look better over time.
 
you did a great job with those DTs and the prazi.
I think I kind of warned you about going too close with the tails.
regardless, its a beautiful piece of solid case work.
and tackling a piece of solid case work to me is a very difficult task, so I know youre way up the skill ladder.(cause if it was easy, everyone would be doing it)
I bet that weighs a ton also, with all the drawers in place, dont think I could lift it myself.


edit.-my wife just came into my office to hand me a cup of coffee, and I showed her your chest, she loved it, really loved it,alot.
 
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4 coats of amber shellac sanded with 220 between coats.
(couldn't find garnet shellac anywhere close Larry :()

My wife is so thrilled. I've been making stuff for the kids for so long she was getting pretty jealous. It is so rewarding and so much fun making things that are truly appreciated. I love this woodworking stuff:D:D:D

I kept the old finish on the hinges. They look pretty good I think. The chest is going upstairs in the hallway. I think 2 of my sons-in-law are coming over tonight to move it up there for me.
Just have to get a lid support to keep it from falling on the wifes head :D

No idea how I screwed up and put the picture of the epoxied knot. It was not on this project


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well done bob,, and that amber looks good on it!! it will darken as time goes on and will be a nice rich looking brown like your old clock..lets see you got anice bandsaw for just being yu now after making her this maybe a nice big pie huh:):thumb::thumb:
 
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