Another how to?????????

OK imagine a small drawer front. Made out of 3/4 material, around 5" x 12". I need a way to pull it open, but I don't want to have a knob. I also don't want to purchase a flush fit handle.

My thinking is to bore a 1" hole, 1/2 deep. Bevel the sides, back under the face. Question is how to bevel? Thought about a dovetail bit. Maybe make a template out of hardboard and run the shank around that?

Finishing is not an issue, shop furniture.

Any better ideas? Open to all, but the handle must be flush. Quick and simple is good.

Steve most slot drawer pulls I see are under and 1.5" wide cut in the shape of quarter round.
Need sharp chisels.

yup or yu can just use a router to make a reveal under the bottom edge..

Guess I should have mention, drawers will be built in, so to speak. No way to get to sides, tops or bottoms.

Like these?



If so, I've done them without the "Filler" piece and just done an opening large enough for my hand and done a round over on both sides.

Close, maybe. When I get home I will try to put something together.

Drill a 2" diameter hole, half an inch deep, then rout a quarter inch slot across it, going about half an inch to either side. Put a piece of quarter inch stock - or a quarter inch dowel - in that slot, across the hole. Voila! an inset drawer handle.

Drawer pull bits plunge in and make a relived hole to allow a finger grip.
http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/fingergrip-drawpull-bits.html
They cut hand holds as Tom shows in the next post.

Steve, The Cockpit Locker in my Sailboat came from the Factory made of Teak and had recessed opening centered in the upper 2/5's of a pull open door. The hinges were at the bottom.

The recessed opening was about 5/8's of an inch deep. I had to make new locker doors as the old frames were in bad shape. I made all new frames and doors out of White Oak. I wanted to replicate them. I ended up using a forstern bit to cut down to depth in the left and right side, then installed a straight cutting router bit in my router table and set up stops to keep the bit from cutting to far forward or back and cleaned out the web between two holes. Once that was done, I took a flexible shaft tool with a ball mill on the end and under cut the upper side so your finger tips would have a place to grab onto.

Here is a pic of the old ones.

http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2377872210070055750WLwBeZ

My new ones ended up looking just the same.

Tom...

Now wait a minute. It's a shop drawer.. So just run a drywall screw into it.
Or you could do this.
Here is a bunch http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=drawer pull cutter&new=1

steve, you could make the half inch deep hole, then undercut it very carefully with a dovetail bit in a router.

Now we are cooking guys. Thanks. When I get my other wing back, it's going to be a busy time in the shop.

No Knob

My 2 cnts

A round hole (or probably any other shape) that can only be a half-inch deep, including the lip is going to be one heck of a fingernail catcher. You will scrape on the dead end of the hole and put sawdust/splinters under your fingernail. The hole will soon look tacky from the "gouges" made by your fingernail.

Think about it. .75 thick material minus .25 at bottom of hole so you don't poke through minus .25 for the thickness of the lip so it won't break off. That gives you a whole quarter-inch to get your finger in to do the pulling.

Chuck's idea fits the KISS formula. It is simple. The slot is wide so you can grab it many different places along the drawer front. The slope on the "pull" part is more open so your fingers can come in at a bit of a side angle so your nails are less apt to scratch (dig in, gouge, etc.) the wood at the back of the opening.

Could you make a two-inch diameter hole a half-inch deep and then put on a three-quarter inch long knob? That extra quarter-inch for fingers would really help each time you open the drawer.

Darren, That is a beautiful case piece!!!

Enjoy,

Jim

How about one of the magnetic catch type things that when you push in, it unlocks, then pushes it out?

I think I have a plan. Will sleep on it and let you know tomorrow.

Steve Southwood said:

OK imagine a small drawer front. Made out of 3/4 material, around 5" x 12". I need a way to pull it open, but I don't want to have a knob. I also don't want to purchase a flush fit handle.

My thinking is to bore a 1" hole, 1/2 deep. Bevel the sides, back under the face. Question is how to bevel? Thought about a dovetail bit. Maybe make a template out of hardboard and run the shank around that?

Finishing is not an issue, shop furniture.

Any better ideas? Open to all, but the handle must be flush. Quick and simple is good.

Click to expand...

Sounds like the drawers in my wife's sewing cabinet.


{click on photo for larger view}

-Don