Norms Router Table

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For those that have built this table or any type for that matter. What are some things to watch out for? Things you would have done different?

6 things I am doing for sure:
Will be mounted on 4" casters
Woodpeck lift with 7518
4" dust collection at back
Double 3/4 mdf top
Building case out of Baltic Birch
Going to sand down the inside of the router compartment and wax, hoping to make it slick and easier to remove dust.

If the plans don't call for 3/4 backing material, probably will do that because of the wheels.
 
Sorry Steve, but I have no idea about what table are you talking about, could you post a link or whatever, I'm thinking about building one myself and I'd like to have a look at it.

Thanks a lot
 
suggestion,, on the dust collection at the bottom make a tapered shute to 4" pipe not 2".. also i used the space in the top on the right for a inset switch rather than a exterior mounted one.. also you need to have a recptical to get power to router and to the switch.. i took and had that mounted outside to make it easy to unplug the router when changing bits rather than rely on the switch to have it off.. i also had the holes on one side for 1/2" bits and the other side for 1/4" bits.. works for me that way just fine..as for rollers make sure yu can get it to stay put with rollers locked.. sometimes when running long or heavy pieces you get alot of force wanting it to move... like headboard sides on a sleigh bed:)
 
Yours material list is almost exactly what I did. I put formica laminate on the top.

I use SandePly from Home Depot for all my shop "furniture" It is seven ply and very consistent. Nice to finish. And, it is easy for me to pick it up.

I gathered a mixture of parts. I used rockler fence and a old positioner that is no longer sold.

No need to route the t-track past the cutter head for the fence slots.

Get the miter t-track as close to the insert as possible.

Buy the template to route the template. It is worth it.

I personally would not worry about the dust under the top. I NEVER open the door so I have no idea what is happening and really do not care as long as the dust in not in the open shop.

I really like my setup with the threaded rod to lock the spindle when I change bits. My router is a old MV12 which is a horse !! I actually bought a 2nd one for back up since it is no longer available.

I tend to over build everything !! So my construction is based on Norm's plan ( which I did purchase ) but I put extra braces etc into the construction.

My is not on wheels, but has heavy duty levelers.

I would like to have one more 1/4 drawer. I did not realize I would end up using 1/4 bits so much until I got my Bosch Colt.

Link to web album

IMG_0211.jpg


This is a later picture with cyclone DC hooked up.

IMG_2911.JPG
 
Dan, it will be more mine than Norms. Changing a thing or two as I go, when I go.

Bartee, thanks for the tips. I looked at that ply this week at Home Depot. Around 40 a sheet and it looked like good stuff.
 
Something I can finally provide some insight on.

I modeled mine after his, but kinda winged the dimensions. I wanted to match the height of my saw to serve as an outfeed table should I need it. Two sheets of 3/4" phenolic faced ply, bordered by ash. I'm not real happy with any of the drawers except the bottom two, and going to redo them. Still haven't decided on any face trim, and what to do with the door and the back. Got the miter slot ready to go in whenever I get the nerve. The top two drawers and bottom two drawers have sides, everything else are slabs.

The insert, fence and T-track are Rockler. The casters are 4" double locking. This is version #2 of this particular design - I didn't try to incorporate drawers the first time around, and it was too difficult to add them in. I really need to step up and get some more progress on it.

 
Steve,

Buy the template. Life's too short! ;)

Support that top, with cross beams or something underneath. Don't depend on the doubled 3/4 MDF to keep itself flat! It *will* sag on it's own. And if it sags even a 32nd... well, life will not be good.

Don't ask me how I know... :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Thanks,

Bill
 
More good info, thanks folks.

I did order the template when I ordered the lift. Figure whats $15 when I can hit it on the first try.

Bill the way the plans look the side walls come up and support the top. Will double check when the time comes.
 
For those that have built this table or any type for that matter. What are some things to watch out for? Things you would have done different?

6 things I am doing for sure:
Will be mounted on 4" casters
Woodpeck lift with 7518
4" dust collection at back
Double 3/4 mdf top
Building case out of Baltic Birch
Going to sand down the inside of the router compartment and wax, hoping to make it slick and easier to remove dust.

If the plans don't call for 3/4 backing material, probably will do that because of the wheels.

Hi Steve, I built Norm's router table several years ago. There is one construction related issue that you need to be aware of - the following link is to a photo for clarification.



{click on photo for larger view}

It is very important to have the inner dividers the same height as the sides - to prevent the top from sagging. My top is made from two layers of 3/4'' MDF with laminate on both sides, and it sagged because the inner cabinet dividers were a little short. I corrected this problem and added two cross-braces for additional support (middle and front). I have the WoodPecker PRL with the big PC 7518 router - and it is heavy! Install your router and use a straight edge to confirm there is no sag. (I might consider a torsion box design if I were to do it again).

Here is a link to the photo album. (click on photo's and look for caption notes)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=852&ppuser=1367

I followed Norm's plan for the most part with exception of the fence and the mobile casters (not illustrated). I have swival casters mounted on hinged boards on each end of the cabinet; they can be lowered and locked, but it's not easy! I would find a better solution if I were to do it again. On a side note, writing this post reply gives me an idea on a solution. :)

A major change was the micro-adjust fence. Check out the photo's - I love it! One last comment! I would not glue the drawer dividers; use screws! I don't use all the drawers for router bits, and would like to change a coupe to drawers; like the tool drawer.

Good luck, this will be one of your all time favorite shop-made tools!

-Don
 
Hi,

You do not need four casters. Use two and a Johnson Bar (which also has two, but much cheaper, casters). That setup makes it easy to move the unit and still lets all four feet sit on the floor when it is not being moved. The pic is Myrna moving 300# of bench and stuff using the Johnson Bar. I could do it using only two fingers on the handle.

The second pic shows the Johnson Bar parts on top of my workbench. Notice on the left end of the bench, just above the floor is an eye that the Johnson Bar hook engages when moving the bench. At the right end of the bench, right down on the floor, you can see part of one (there is another on the other corner) caster. The caster is about the thickness of a piece of paper above the floor.

I have this arrangement on my router table, sanding table (12 in Disk and 4 x 36 belt), and my lathe bench. My DP has 4 casters and 4 bolts that run down and hold the unit just off of the casters when not being moved. My BS moves using rollers, I was not thinking Johnson Bar when Glenn and I built the cabinet. I just tip the dry grinder and roll it holding the top. The jointer is still on the original table and locking casters. The Dust Collector is in the Outhouse on casters and has never been moved. The 20 gallon Air Compressor has its own wheels and handle and sort of works like a Johnson Bar.

Anything new gets the Johnson Bar treatment. It works very well even for little ole 114 # me.

You can add levelers to the legs if you need them.

I use the t-track all of the way across my router table fence. I use it for hold-downs and stop-blocks. I would not want to be without that t-track.

Routers I have: Porter Cable 690, Colt, Ryobi R181 PF Plunge, Triton M00FOO IKC plunge. I would gladly trade the first three for another Triton. The Triton fits on the metal plate in the router table. There is an above table crank to adjust height (nothing to loosen or tighten) in clearly marked, very small incriments. Each mark on the height adjustment dial is 1/2 inch from the next mark. The height changes 1/128 inch between marks (that is getting into machinest precision). There is nothing to loosen or tighten so you have NO worries about slop.

I have a Lowes Shop Vac attached to the DC port on the Triton. It works so well that I finally removed the table top DC input. The top collector is just plain not needed. Remember---Glenn and my wife say I am anal. Therefore if I say it is not needed; it isn't needed.

I'm not into the macho stuff. This router works fine for all of the things I do. I hasten to add that I have not used a bit over 1 1/4 inch diameter either.

Therefore for the price of a lift you can purchase a very smooth, comfortable, precisely adjustable router that does not need a lift. You can close the bench cupboard door and leave it closed except for one thing...you have to turn the router off or the bit will not raise into the lock position to change bits. Open the door, flip the switch that's all there is to it. You don't even have to see it.

Triton should hire me as a salesperson because I am as hot on that router as I am the WorkSharp 3000 (They should hire me too.). Speaking of hiring---I am retiring, for the 4 th and final time, in December.

Enjoy,

Jim

Oh yes, I almost forgot. I used "U" bolts in place of the eye for later projects. In a really tight turn the eye-bolt has a tendency to rotate a bit. This could unhook the J.Bar. The "U" bolt thing will not rotate.
 
Hi,

Here I am again. Glenn made sure that I put all kinds of cross bracing under my Rockwell router table top...even though it was going on their table. A new router table with drawers is high on my list of JimDo's.

I am very glad that Glenn had me put in the bracing.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Hi,

You do not need four casters. Use two and a Johnson Bar (which also has two, but much cheaper, casters). That setup makes it easy to move the unit and still lets all four feet sit on the floor when it is not being moved...

Jim
.


Good suggestion Jim! In my previous post I made the comment that I just had an idea for a better mobile base solution while I was replying to the post! I didn't go into detail but my thought was to use the same solution I used on a drill press mobile base. I have two fixed casters on one end, and a detachable Rockler swivel caster on the other end (I have the Rockler mobile base on my planer).

{click on pictures to enlarge}








Here's the link to the photo album for more details: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1893&ppuser=0
 
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