Chain saw chain charpener

Chuck Ellis

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6,997
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
That looks like it has possibilities.
I have the HF sharpener but have never used it.
Without a doubt, it is NOT for the professional cutter. It is a light duty machine for folks like me, occasional home users. Even then, at $25.00, if it lasts five years, I can afford to pitch and buy another.
 
I had the HF chainsaw sharpener and did not like it at all. In fact I killed at least one chain using it. Now I use an inexpensive jig [Oregon?] and a round file, and it works really well. My chains last a lot longer, and I can get them very sharp. Doesn't take more than a few minutes.
 
I use an Oregon version of the one Jim shows, works well, and the chain lasts longer as you don't take off a bunch of steel at one time.

I have the diamond hone for the dremel, and it works but IMHO it is too easy to take off too much steel from the tooth, you have to be careful.

If I was running the saw into dirt a lot, like cutting firewood etc tends to do, I'd carry 3 or 4 chains and just swap them out and then sharpen them at home or at lunch time etc.

I do have to say again about that powersharp set up it looks really good, but price would be a factor, if I was cutting firewood to heat my home, well I think I'd have one of them set ups, saves a LOT of down time.
 
On another message-board (sawmill related) I frequent it is agreed hand sharping does the best job, but when you need to do 10 chains at a time, a sharpener is needed. A sharpener is also used to repair damaged teeth.

I have thought about getting the HF sharpener several times, but I keep chickening out because of the mixed reviews I've read. I personally use a hand file to tune-up my chains, but after a big day of sawing I usually drop them off at the local shop.

One day I hope to own a sharpener.
 
I was always taught by logger friends of mine to use the file only,with 2-3 strokes per tooth never more never less as taking too much off a tooth causes too much inconsistancy in the cutting chain. Take a flat file and take some off the rakers too as the chain wears.

The strap on gadjet looks like it wears down the top of the chain rather than just sharpening the cutting tooth. How is that any benifit as it means replacing the chain faster than with the conventional method of sharpening.

Dremels take too much off and are too inconsistant.

I have both the other jigs as they were given to me but I can't say that I have ever used them as I prefer feeling what I am doing. Some times the old way is the only way to do things.
 
All of the chain saw sharpeners I have seen take metal off of the BACK side of the cutting edge. This is like sharpening your chisels by grinding a bevel on the back side of the blade. It may sharpen the blade better than it was---But it is not really sharp, just like the chisel or turning tool would not be sharp.

Sharpening is very easy to learn...unlike learning to sharpen chisels, plane irons, etc. The Oregon jig shows you just where to put the file. Take two or three strokes---NO more. Be sure you have a file that is the exact diameter as the inside curve of the cutter on the chain. There are files that are made specifically for doing this.

The jig and the correct file are quite inexpensive. I'll bet you will be happy the very first time you use it. I am saying this even though I do not have the sharpening gene. It is simple: just get the jig, the correct file and follow directions.

A well sharpened chain will cut right down through the log...the weight of the tool will do most of the work.

Enjoy,

And do it!

Jim
 
My old Montgomery Wards chainsaw had a button on the back end you pushed and it would shove a 'stone' into the blade to 'sharpen' the blade.

I pulled it off cause it didn't make sense to me how grinding the whole blade down would sharpen anything. I think the thought was if you did it where the blades were going around the gear end the 'tooth' would be sticking out and you wouldn't necessarly be grinding the whole thing, but it still did not make sense...
 
I've got one of these, and also have one of these. I like the results I've gotten with the on-bar jig, but neither one is very effective for fixing a chain that's accidentally gotten into something it shouldn't, like rocks or nails. In the past, I've just taken those chains to the shop for regrinding. I did pick up the HF electric sharpener on sale a while back, but haven't boogered up a chain enough to warrant trying it out, so it's still sitting new in the box.

On another message-board (sawmill related) I frequent it is agreed hand sharping does the best job, but when you need to do 10 chains at a time, a sharpener is needed. A sharpener is also used to repair damaged teeth...

Doug, I'm not sure if you were talking about a forum about sawmills or the Sawmill Creek woodworking forum, but just so everyone knows, it's OK to refer to Sawmill Creek here. We're not as touchy about mentioning other forums as some forums are. ;)
 
All of the chain saw sharpeners I have seen take metal off of the BACK side of the cutting edge. This is like sharpening your chisels by grinding a bevel on the back side of the blade. It may sharpen the blade better than it was---But it is not really sharp, just like the chisel or turning tool would not be sharp.

Sharpening is very easy to learn...unlike learning to sharpen chisels, plane irons, etc. The Oregon jig shows you just where to put the file. Take two or three strokes---NO more. Be sure you have a file that is the exact diameter as the inside curve of the cutter on the chain. There are files that are made specifically for doing this.

The jig and the correct file are quite inexpensive. I'll bet you will be happy the very first time you use it. I am saying this even though I do not have the sharpening gene. It is simple: just get the jig, the correct file and follow directions.

A well sharpened chain will cut right down through the log...the weight of the tool will do most of the work.

Enjoy,

And do it!

Jim

Just to point out Jim that most chains / blades have a little reference line etched into them with the proper angle that the tooth should be sharpened at.
 
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