Custom Molding Question - Order of Cuts

Brent Dowell

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So I need to make some carpet reducer molding. Couldn't find any I liked locally, and decided I wanted the molding to match our cabinets, and since I've got a ton of maple already, I'm going to make some maple carpet reducers.

This will cover the edges of the laminate and the new carpet we are getting next week will butt up against it.

I'm thinking the order of cuts should be trimming the two top angles first, then the long cut under the modling, then the short cut to trim off the waste piece.

I've got plenty of feather boards and will make sure the workpiece is contained and controlled for each cut.

Just wanted to see if anybody had any comments on the order of the cuts.

Thanks!



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Well, Heading out to straighten things up so I can get going on this. Not looking forward to it since it's about 20 degrees out right now...
 
Looks like you have the plan.:thumb:
And like Dan said you could end up with a dart so set the dart board up :rofl:
If you make cut 4 with the save side to the fence that would take care of the dart problem.:thumb:
Or make you pieces 6 to 12 inches long and stop the cut that much short. Which would also help to prevent the piece from rolling in as it goes by the blade.
 
Been working through the sequence in Sketchup a bit.

If I do it the way I think, I would put the fence to the left of the blade for cuts 1 and 2 (The angled cuts).

Cuts 3 and 4 would work pretty well I think if I do what chuck said and to make the pieces long and leave the last 6 inches intact.

All cuts to be supported before the blade by feather boards on the outside.

All cuts to have feather boards holding the piece down right before the blade.
 
here is a little something, a push block with a preventer. it's rough and nasty, but if it helps, so much the better. i figured that the final part being the full thickness of the board would prevent anything being shot backwards.
 

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If it is me with my saw 1 and 2 the fence is on the right of the blade. Save wood to the fence wast dropping off under the blade. My blade tips away from the fence if the fence is on the right side.
 
Your sequence is good. Make the final cut with the piece to be cut free next to the fence, and use a sacrificial push block that covers the whole end of the workpiece, to avoid the kickback others have mentioned. Featherboards on both side and top of the piece. The zero-clearance insert is also a very good idea.

FWIW, that's exactly how I made mine when I put the laminate down in the wife's sewing studio.
 
here is a little something, a push block with a preventer. it's rough and nasty, but if it helps, so much the better. i figured that the final part being the full thickness of the board would prevent anything being shot backwards.

The only thing your missing Dan is when that wast cuts free is the save piece is going to want to roll down at least the thickness of the saw curf from cut 3
Not a problem as long as you know it's coming and your piece is long enough to trim that off.:thumb::rofl::rofl:
 
The maple I have to work with is plenty long, so I'm good to go leaving some extra at the end. I will be using a variety of hold downs and featherboards and push sticks.

Thanks guys!
 
First and second pic cuts 1 and 2
Third and fourth pic cuts 3 and 4
my piece is a smidge larger than what you are looking for but that would have made the first cut a rip to thickness:thumb::rofl::rofl:
 

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First and second pic cuts 1 and 2
Third and fourth pic cuts 3 and 4
my piece is a smidge larger than what you are looking for but that would have made the first cut a rip to thickness:thumb::rofl::rofl:

Thanks Chuck!

Actually have to do some thicker pieces later to go around the fireplace hearth too... :thumb:

Heres the pics I came up with.

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Here we go.

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