Hollowing questions

Guy Bratt

Member
Messages
64
Location
Richmond, MI near Port Huron
Hi there
Almost finished my deep hollowing rig so I tried a piece. Just couldn't wait.
I turned a vase just over 10 inches deep and about 5/16 thick thats about as I planned for my first.
I have 2 questions 1. On green end grain hollowing should I turn to finished shape and thickness and be done or do I turn it like a green bowl and twice turn it? 2. How can I best prevent the bottom from cracking because the pith is still there? :dunno:
Thanks
 
Guy,
I'm not very qualified to offer help on this since I'm learning myself, but I've been told turning to a consistant thin thickness, like 1/4" is key to success. That and soaking the pith with thin CA. Good luck.
 
I always turn my hollow forms to final thickness of no more than a 1/4". Most times it is less. I soak the pith with thin CA. As soon as I turn it around and finish the bottom I give it a soak inside and out with Minwax Antique Oil. I pour the AO inside and move it around till there are no dry spots. I paint the outside with a foam brush keeping it wet for at least 10 minutes. I wipe off the excess and let it dry for 24 hrs then do it again generally for 3 to 4 coats. I then buff it. I know of a few that leave it at 10% thickness and soak in DNA for a few days then let it dry. I think for me the key is turn it thin and get the finish on as soon as it comes off the lathe. Another key is to use a laser or measure a lot when you start getting to the final thickness.
 
On wet wood I usually turn twice like a green bowl, but most of my hollow forms are not turned end grain. I'd think twice- turned should work for end grain, but I'd expect to see some cracking if the pith is still in the blank.
 
Top