Which skew chisel

Dave Black

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Central PA
I am starting to make drums, I have done a few already, but I think that I need a bigger skew. I have a the free starter set of tools that came with the lathe, I think the skew is 1" or 1.25" wide. On 10" or larger drums it seems like there is such a small margin for error with holding the skew. I have took chunks out of 2 drum shells already. What size of skew should I get, or am I just holding it wrong.
 
Dave, the size sounds about right. (I'm assuming you're using the skew on the outside of the shell.) I'm not much of a skew user, but I know that one of the keys to success with a skew is that it be very, very sharp. Shaving sharp, literally. Stu has a good sharpening video here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/StuInTokyo?blend=2&ob=1#p/u/15/ObHzhq11auQ

He's also got several videos on his YouTube channel showing how he uses a skew. Hopefully those will help.
 
Ditto what Vaughn said. Skews IMHO must be sharpened and then honed. I acutally can shave with mine. Also the other key is to ride the bevel. I got Alan Lacer's DVD "Skew Chisel, The Sweet Side and The Dark Side. Also Stu's video's on you tube are very good. After watching these I practice, practice, practice and then practice some more. I think I am about the only one that actually loves skews as I have 7 from a 1/4" round to Lacer's 1 3/8" big one. Hopefully others will chime in.
 
I use a 1/2" rolled on pens all the time...it eliminates a a lot of sanding and gives me more control entering and leaving the cut. The 1 1/2" is usually for pepper mills. I have a 3/4" that is still in the process of finding a grind I like on it. :huh:
 
I use a 1/2" rolled on pens all the time...it eliminates a a lot of sanding and gives me more control entering and leaving the cut. The 1 1/2" is usually for pepper mills. I have a 3/4" that is still in the process of finding a grind I like on it. :huh:

I'm assuming that the larger diameter the piece the larger skew should be used?
 
what is a good reasonably priced brand of lathe chisels. Are woodriver anygood? They seem kinda on the large side with their handles:dunno:
 
Dave, I don't have any experience with the WoodRiver tools, but they appear to be pretty average HSS tools. Probably decent tools for the price. The Benjamin's Best line from Penn State is probably very similar, and I've had good results with the Benjamin's Best tools Ive owned. I've been happy with the Henry Taylor Kryo tools from Craft Supplies. They are also reasonably priced, but hold an edge longer than regular HSS tools. My favorite edge tools are from Thompson Lathe Tools. They are a bit more expensive, and you still have to shape, sharpen, and hone them (and add a handle), but I've not found any I like better at any price.

And don't let a long handle sway your decision on a tool. Once you use long handles for a while, I think you'll find it's hard to go back to the shorter ones. (Or at least that's how it's been for me.) I find I have better control with the longer handles. Most of my tools have handles ranging from 18" to about 24".
 
Beware of my advice because it may be wrong.
I have watched Alan Lacer’s video several times and at one point he brings up the size of the skew. He has his larger skew and states that it is good up to four inches diameter. Maybe Bernie can verify or dispute.
From what you said about “chunks” I assume you are getting the long point into the wood. In his video (and in the planing cuts) he has the tool rest high, about 10:30 and cuts at about 11:30. With a 10” diameter that would put 5-6 inches of tool over the rest.
I have watched a lot of videos and have never seen anyone use a skew on an item that large. Doesn’t mean it can’t be done.
I do not have one but maybe someone else may suggest the pros/cons of the carbide tipped tools for what you are doing. Or even a bowl gouge.
 
A 1" skew is my #1 turning tool. Can be used on large or small items. Can be 'rolled' to make large beads or outside curves. Can be used to shave or scrape. Yes, sharp is very important. Love my Wolverine.
 
From what you said about “chunks” I assume you are getting the long point into the wood. In his video (and in the planing cuts) he has the tool rest high, about 10:30 and cuts at about 11:30. With a 10” diameter that would put 5-6 inches of tool over the rest.

The long point got into the wood, and yes there is 5-6 of tool over the rest, I think that that amount of tool over the rest is what is giving me problems. I made a taller tool rest but it doesn't let me get close enough when I get above center on the drums so I think I will alter the rest to let me get closer when I am above center.
 
The long point got into the wood, and yes there is 5-6 of tool over the rest, I think that that amount of tool over the rest is what is giving me problems. I made a taller tool rest but it doesn't let me get close enough when I get above center on the drums so I think I will alter the rest to let me get closer when I am above center.

Dave, that said, don't blame the skew until you get your tool rest situation corrected. Ya gotta be close.
 
http://thompsonlathetools.com/tooltype.asp?TYPE=SK

Is the link to Doug Thompson's site. He only has 3/4" skews at this time and they list for $70. The awesome setup is to have Randy (Monster) Privett make a handle for you...most of my tools are that set up.

I like the 10:00 postition and the tool rest as close as I can get it. I'm also fond of leading with the long side down. Just my comfort level and may not work for everyone
 
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I think I would still like to get something that will hold an edge a little better. How much will I need to spend to get a decent tool?

The cryogenically treated tools typically hold an edge longer than high speed steel, although some folks feel that HSS will take a finer edge. My choice would be for the cryo metal anyway, and a 1" or so skew made of that is probably gonna cost from about $60 on up. Check out the Henry Taylor Kryo tools at Packard Woodworking or Craft Supplies. Like I said earlier, Thompson is my personal favorite, but it looks like he might be out of everything except the 3/4" width.

Regarding the tool rest and its height and position...if you lower the tool rest and change the angle you're holding the tool handle, you can greatly reduce how much tool is hanging off the rest. The tool doesn't care what o'clock it's being held to the wood at, as long as the angle of engagement is the same.

Here's a rough sketch to explain what I mean:

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I'm assuming that the larger diameter the piece the larger skew should be used?


Bigger is better because of the vibration you can get. Although I have made some tops 1/2" high by 1" across like Alan Lacer does with his 1 3/8" skew. You can use small skew on big stuff but you had better have some good tool control. Vaughn's drawing tells it pretty much. You don't want much tool hanging off the edge of the tool rest. The angle at which the tool is presented must be the same and rubbing the bevel is a must.

I think the big one I got from Doug Thompson was $70 unhandled. It holds a edge a lot longer than my HSS does. I sharpen and hone with a tormek.
 
The cryogenically treated tools typically hold an edge longer than high speed steel, although some folks feel that HSS will take a finer edge. My choice would be for the cryo metal anyway, and a 1" or so skew made of that is probably gonna cost from about $60 on up. Check out the Henry Taylor Kryo tools at Packard Woodworking or Craft Supplies. Like I said earlier, Thompson is my personal favorite, but it looks like he might be out of everything except the 3/4" width.

Regarding the tool rest and its height and position...if you lower the tool rest and change the angle you're holding the tool handle, you can greatly reduce how much tool is hanging off the rest. The tool doesn't care what o'clock it's being held to the wood at, as long as the angle of engagement is the same.

Here's a rough sketch to explain what I mean:

attachment.php

I understand being able to lower the rest and change the angle but I found it uncomfortable, I rigged a tool rest so I will have to give it a try
 
I understand being able to lower the rest and change the angle but I found it uncomfortable, I rigged a tool rest so I will have to give it a try

That's OK, you've gotta be comfortable. :thumb: I'd probably be doing it with a bowl gouge or carbide tool like the Ci1, because I'm not real comfortable with a skew, no matter where the tool rest is. :)
 
That's OK, you've gotta be comfortable. :thumb: I'd probably be doing it with a bowl gouge or carbide tool like the Ci1, because I'm not real comfortable with a skew, no matter where the tool rest is. :)

I can't seem to get it very smooth with either a bowl or spindle gouge. Maybe not sharp enough?
 
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