tenoning jig problem

Frank Fusco

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Mountain Home, Arkansas
Here I go again, braggin' on what I don't know.
Somehow, I thought the miter gage slot in table saws, and other WW equipment was a standard size. As mentioned in another topic, I just purchased a new Grizzly tenoning jig. Looks like a well designed and made piece of equipment. Problem: it's slider is too big for the slot on my Delta table saw. They aren't all the same. At first study, I can't figure out how to remove it. If it comes off, I'm divided between making a replacement from Osage Orange or having my machinist friend make one from steel.
 

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Yep! Time for a new saw Frank.

I have that jig and it works really great. I hope that you can make it work with your saw as you are going to like it. Once set up you can cut tenons faster than you can turn around.

Allen
 
This is a puzzle Frank. I have the Delta jig. Both the Delta and Grizzly sites show the mitre bar as 3/4" x 3/8" and the Delta jig fits the 3/4" slot in my Gen Int. saw just fine. Have you put a vernier caliper into the groove on your saw or across the bar to check that it's wide/narrow enough? Reason I ask .... the grooves on my GI were milled too wide so all my mitres and jigs are sloppy loose in the groove and I'm picking up the new replacement table tomorrow. Maybe your mitre grooves are milled too narrow or the bar is too wide? If the bar is too wide, it should be a warranty repair?

just a thought

cheers eh?
 
This is a puzzle Frank. I have the Delta jig. Both the Delta and Grizzly sites show the mitre bar as 3/4" x 3/8" and the Delta jig fits the 3/4" slot in my Gen Int. saw just fine. Have you put a vernier caliper into the groove on your saw or across the bar to check that it's wide/narrow enough? Reason I ask .... the grooves on my GI were milled too wide so all my mitres and jigs are sloppy loose in the groove and I'm picking up the new replacement table tomorrow. Maybe your mitre grooves are milled too narrow or the bar is too wide? If the bar is too wide, it should be a warranty repair?

just a thought

cheers eh?


The Griz bar is definately too wide for the track. The track is grooved inside also. But if I make a replacement it will ride along the grooves. I haven't measured the size difference but eyeballing it is about 1/8" oversize.
 
At first study, I can't figure out how to remove it. If it comes off, I'm divided between making a replacement from Osage Orange or having my machinist friend make one from steel.

Frank,

I did not read your first post good enough to notice this statement but that bar comes off with a couple of screws. If you read the instructional manual about converting it from a right tilt to a left tilt setup you have to move the bar and it shows you how it comes off.

One option in lue of making a new bar that I have been thinking about is to have a machinist widen the miter slot in your table top. That way any additional things that you might need that require the slot would fit. I do not know if you have machine shops around there that have the equipment to do that or not and I suspect that it could be a bit expensive but maybe not as bad as I think. Just a thought, maybe not a good thought, but a thought none the less.

Allen
 
I just had another thought and am reposting just in case you already read the above one. Since your slots are not a standard size, according to some of our saws, I wounder if they are a standard distance from the blade. They would have to be close for that jig to work properly. For a left tilt the left slot is 5 1/2' from the blade and the right slot is 4 1/4" from the blade. If yours is a right tilt I suppose that the figures would be reversed but to be safe would need a measurement from someone with a right tilt saw or a dealer.
 
I haven' taken time to study the manual yet, it was shiverin' cold in the shop yesterday. Strange as it was nice out. But I was in a :bang: mood and was almost reaching for the big hammer. Enneyhow, the slots are proper (standard) distance. To get them milled out would cost more than the whole saw is worth. Sometimes my genius attributes show up after the fact. This time, just in time. ;) Last week I purchased 20' of 1" round UHMW rod. This will be shared with a friend and turned into styluses (styli ?) for use with my Terrco duplicator. I have more than I'll ever use. This stuff is tougher than an executioners conscience. And I can work it, unlike metal. I'll make a slide for this saw and, of course, keep the original when I upgrade. Will post results. Thanks y'all for the ideas.
 
Frank, sent you a PM

Thanks, Bruce, got them. I'll be sending another to you soon.
Installed my acrylic slider thingy yesterday. It is almost, sorta, mebbe, kinda OK. Well, not really. The acrylic has a tendancy to be 'grabby' on the metal channel. Even when lubed with beeswax it doesn't want to slide. Make that: can tip over the saw trying to slide the 'bleeping' thing at all. Not good. Plus, I'm not sure I got the holes drilled precisely centered. If they are off, then the plate, and tenons, would be katywhumpus to the plane of the blade. More not good.
No pictures. I photographed enough train wrecks when I was a professional news photog, don't need more. :(
 
I empathize with you Frank. I've had that feeling after buying something and it doesn't fit as expected. In another post you mentioned eyeballing about 1/8" off in the width of the miter bar. If your machinest friend milled the width of the bar for your current table saw, would that ruin it for use in another saw, if you ever replace this one?
It might be worth a closer look since I imagine you want to use it in this saw.
Just thinking outloud... :huh:
Mike
 
I empathize with you Frank. I've had that feeling after buying something and it doesn't fit as expected. In another post you mentioned eyeballing about 1/8" off in the width of the miter bar. If your machinest friend milled the width of the bar for your current table saw, would that ruin it for use in another saw, if you ever replace this one?
It might be worth a closer look since I imagine you want to use it in this saw.
Just thinking outloud... :huh:
Mike

I'm going to get it milled for this saw. Replacement parts are available from Grizzly and I may order another just to have on hand. My major tool purchases are few and far between. A new lathe is top priority with me right now. Unless I find a bargain used table saw somewhere, I'm probably stuck with this one for a while.
 
A New Lathe... That could turn out be be something great :rofl:
If you tell me it's going to be something like the Jet 1643 EVS, I'm going to have a case of serious jealousy...
I also turn, or something to that effect. Sometimes items coming off the lathe are worth showing to others, but they tend to be friends, so they treat me with kindness.
Good Luck, Mike
 
A New Lathe... That could turn out be be something great :rofl:
If you tell me it's going to be something like the Jet 1643 EVS, I'm going to have a case of serious jealousy...
I also turn, or something to that effect. Sometimes items coming off the lathe are worth showing to others, but they tend to be friends, so they treat me with kindness.
Good Luck, Mike

Well...."something like", could stir a debate.
I'm leaning real hard towards the Grizzly G0632 http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0632
I was in Springfield, MO last Saturday to look at one in the flesh. But the slow boat from China hasn't arrived yet. The 0632 goes down to zero RPM. If I recall correctly, the Jet slowest speed is 450 or 600 RPMs. I wouldn't gain anything by switching from my current Grizzly G1067Z to go with the Jet. BTW, the 0632s are expected to arrive sometime mid-March.
 
The Jet 1642 EVS goes down to zero rpm. It sure does look like it came off the same assembly line as the new Griz model. (And aside from the base, so does the new imported General.) I've pondered the Grizzly...it looks good, but it's only available in 220v. The Jet, on the other hand, has 110v and 220v models.

Back on-topic, I'd be interested to see what the actual width of the miter bar on your tenoning jig is. 1/8" of difference seems pretty substantially wrong for something that's supposed to be a "standard" size. :huh:
 
The Jet 1642 EVS goes down to zero rpm. It sure does look like it came off the same assembly line as the new Griz model. (And aside from the base, so does the new imported General.) I've pondered the Grizzly...it looks good, but it's only available in 220v. The Jet, on the other hand, has 110v and 220v models.

Back on-topic, I'd be interested to see what the actual width of the miter bar on your tenoning jig is. 1/8" of difference seems pretty substantially wrong for something that's supposed to be a "standard" size. :huh:



I'm sure it is my low-end table saw that is non-standard. The bar fits other items I have in the shop and it fits an old Rockwell at a friend's shop. The jig is OK but not for my particular saw.
As for the Griz lathe and 220. I don't have 220 either but if wifey will let me spend the money after I sell the tractor, I'll get it installed. There is a semi-retired electrician in the area I have used in the past. He is very good, charges reasonable prices and if I help a little to save time, I can save even more money.
OK, I found the Jet 1642 http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5433 and, yes, it does look like the same item as the Griz except with 110V and different paint job.
For me, the Griz would be the choice. We don't have a Woodcraft at all local but I get to Griz frequently and can save shipping charges. Plus they have been super on the few occasions I needed service.
 
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