shaper conumdrum

well that Splanz it

Hi Guys. The spindle is indeed 1/2" on Craftsman shapers. The 1/2 Hp. motor makes that machine fairly wimpy on anything but pine. I put a 1.5 Hp. motor on one and made my first two sets of red oak raised panel doors back in the '90s. With new, sharp Freud 3/4" bore cutters with reducer bushings, the little shaper did alright. Not sure I would recommend it again though, knowing what I know now.

Just as soon as I found a "deal" on a 3 Hp. WoodTek shaper with 1/2", 3/4" and 1" spindles, the little "see-though" Craftsman was History!

Chip Lindley said:

Just as soon as I found a "deal" on a 3 Hp. WoodTek shaper with 1/2", 3/4" and 1" spindles, the little "see-though" Craftsman was History!

Click to expand...

Don't get in to big of a hurry to get rid of it. They work great for bull-nosing edges & other light work.

Frank my C-man turns counterclockwise looking down from the top.

I'll make it counter-clockwise and will be looking for a bigger motor.

I thought & still do think the cutters are made to spin counterclockwise while feeding material from right to left while facing the spindle & fence.

Bart Leetch said:

I thought & still do think the cutters are made to spin counterclockwise while feeding material from right to left while facing the spindle & fence.

Click to expand...

Oops, I meant "counter-clockwise". Will edit. Need more coffee.

reversed and bit ?

A friend that knows elektriks came over and rewired the motor on this shaper. Going the correct (counter-clockwise) direction it doesn't struggle and runs much faster. Something was wrong before. Runs like a monster now. I removed the 'backwards' bit that was on there. Surprised to find it is internally threaded. The threads do not engage with the shaft threads and it slipped off. So I dunno wassup. Do shaper shafts all have threads?

Frank Fusco said:

A friend that knows elektriks came over and rewired the motor on this shaper. Going the correct (counter-clockwise) direction it doesn't struggle and runs much faster. Something was wrong before. Runs like a monster now. I removed the 'backwards' bit that was on there. Surprised to find it is internally threaded. The threads do not engage with the shaft threads and it slipped off. So I dunno wassup. Do shaper shafts all have threads?

Click to expand...

There are threads on theads on the shafts of both of my shapers but no threads on the inside of any of my cutters either for the C-man or the Davis & Wells. The C-man had adapters to adapt from a larger bore cutter down to fit the C-man.

Bart, thanks.
I would say, from your pictures, that is the same model C'man shaper I have but with different bases.
I still haven't decided what I'm going to do with it. Current thinking is single use dedication for finger joints. I don't know how to make much that isn't spun and would like to make boxes, chests, whatever that has joints.

Frank Fusco said:

Bart, thanks.
I would say, from your pictures, that is the same model C'man shaper I have but with different bases.
I still haven't decided what I'm going to do with it. Current thinking is single use dedication for finger joints. I don't know how to make much that isn't spun and would like to make boxes, chests, whatever that has joints.

Click to expand...

It's my understanding from my Dad that the top & bottom of the stand are large automatic transmission converter housings.

This little shaper works well for bullnosing edges too. Thats mostly what Dad did with it leaving the Davis & Wells for rails & styles & raised panels.

I have one of those c-man 1/2" shapers. We have it set up with a 2 hp motor and a 1-1/8 bullnose for stair threads. Tey are great little shapers. Keep it around. You can pull the shaft out and have one msde to take router bits.

Al killian said:

I have one of those c-man 1/2" shapers. We have it set up with a 2 hp motor and a 1-1/8 bullnose for stair threads. Tey are great little shapers. Keep it around. You can pull the shaft out and have one msde to take router bits.

Click to expand...

Thanks. For now I'll probably use just one shaper bit and keep it there as a single-use dedicated tool.

more conundrum

Well, back to the conundrum thing with this shaper.
I took off the 'backwards' bit that was on it now that I have the motor running the 'right' way. I found about a dozen 1/2" bits in a box of 'stuff' left from my father and took one out to put on just to make the machine look complete. Uh-Oh!!! It wouldn't go on. The 1/2" shaft on the machine is too big for the half inch hole on the bit. Digging around further, I found a 1/2" shaft in the 'stuff' box and the bit fits that. Then I dug out a 1/2" conversion shaft that came with my Grizzly mini-shaper and the bit fits that also. So, I am considering removing the present shaft and fitting with one of these. But, first, I would like to know why the old shaft I inherited has a flat bottom and the one for the more modern mini-shaper is tapered. What am I likely to find when/if I remove the present shaft? I contacted Sears and they referred me to an on-line parts link for the shaper but that link has been down for a while. When it comes up again I'll use as a guide.
But, another question: How does one remove the shaft? It is probably just a friction fit like my mini but how to apply the upward force to get it out?
Note pic. Flat bottom is the antique, tapered is the one from the mini.

Shameless bumpity-bump-bump on previous post.
I would appreciate some help with this. Especially how to get existing shaft out. If I can get it out other questions would probably answer themselves.
Thanks.

Wish I knew anything about shapers to help you out, Frank.

If he doesn't see it here, you might drop a PM to Al Killian, since it sounds like he's pulled the shaft on one of these before.

Thanks, I'll wait a bit to see if he replies.

It's been many years since I worked on one of these cman shapers but I believe the shaft is made into the bearing housing with a pulley mounted on the bottom. To get the shaft out you will have to unclamp the bearing housing by loosening two bolts in the casting that holds the bearing housing. The bearing housing has a spiral slot that is captured by a pin which allows the up and down movement of the bearing housing. Actually the entire bearing housing and shaft move up and down. I don't think you will be able to find any other shafts that fit the shaper without having one made at a machine shop. If my memory is right there is no tapered keyed removeable shaft on this machine. My first shaper was one of these and it served me well until I outgrew it's capability. I have a stable of 5- 3hp shapers, all set up dedicated to their responsibilty for making raised panel doors.

Hope this might be a bit of help to you.

Thanks, Jim. I'll take a look and do wat ye suggest. Dunno about the machinist thing. This shaft is only a little bit oversized. I might use my three jaw chuck in my wood turning lathe and put a file to the shaft to bring down to size.