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Kitchen Remodel - Finished enough for pictures

QUESTION FOR THE GROUP - I'll be pullig up the old subfloor - 1/2" partical board - next week. I will have to replace it with 1/2" material. I'll use screws and adhesive, but what is the best material to put down? OSB or plywood?:huh:[/QUOTE]

I used 3/4" T&G OSB for mine Rennie
 
Tom Niemi said:
QUESTION FOR THE GROUP - I'll be pullig up the old subfloor - 1/2" partical board - next week. I will have to replace it with 1/2" material. I'll use screws and adhesive, but what is the best material to put down? OSB or plywood?:huh:
Click to expand...

I used 3/4" T&G OSB for mine Rennie[/QUOTE]
Thanks Tom, but I can't go 3/4" because I'm extending the floor from the dining room and it has to match in height.
 
Rennie Heuer said:
I'll be pullig up the old subfloor - 1/2" partical board - next week. I will have to replace it with 1/2" material. I'll use screws and adhesive, but what is the best material to put down? OSB or plywood?:huh:
Click to expand...

Are we bumping into regional terminology differences again? :huh:
I just can't believe that a sub-floor is made of particle board and is only 1/2" thick. (Particle board is only 1 step up from MDF and there is no real strength against sagging!)

My understanding is that sub-floor is what rests directly on the floor joists, and around here it is usually 3/4" sheet goods (OSB, plywood, or some such) and then over top of that you lay underlay (1/4" plywood) if your are putting down vinyl flooring or tile, but if you're doing carpet or hardwood it usually just goes directly on the sub-floor.
 
Art Mulder said:
Are we bumping into regional terminology differences again? :huh:
I just can't believe that a sub-floor is made of particle board and is only 1/2" thick. (Particle board is only 1 step up from MDF and there is no real strength against sagging!)

My understanding is that sub-floor is what rests directly on the floor joists, and around here it is usually 3/4" sheet goods (OSB, plywood, or some such) and then over top of that you lay underlay (1/4" plywood) if your are putting down vinyl flooring or tile, but if you're doing carpet or hardwood it usually just goes directly on the sub-floor.
Click to expand...

Your understanding is pretty much spot on.
But it is also considered by some to be decking (typically 3/4") sub-floor most often 1/2" and 5/8"
There was a time around these parts when the "right way" to do it would have been to install 3/4" plywood across the floor joists. Than a layer of 5/8" plywood running the other way. And in the areas where linoleum was to be installed. One would put a layer of 1/4" lauan. For the more cost effective builder he would use 3/4" plywood than a layer of 1/2" particle board. Now a days they clam the only thing one needs is 3/4"T & G AdvanTech and in the areas where "lino" now vinyl is going to be installed there is a Accuply (looks and feels like pressed card board.
 
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Art Mulder said:
Are we bumping into regional terminology differences again? :huh:
I just can't believe that a sub-floor is made of particle board and is only 1/2" thick. (Particle board is only 1 step up from MDF and there is no real strength against sagging!)

My understanding is that sub-floor is what rests directly on the floor joists, and around here it is usually 3/4" sheet goods (OSB, plywood, or some such) and then over top of that you lay underlay (1/4" plywood) if your are putting down vinyl flooring or tile, but if you're doing carpet or hardwood it usually just goes directly on the sub-floor.
Click to expand...
Hi Art - perhaps it's me. Here's what I'm dealing with. My floor system is post and beam, T&G 2x6 on 48" centers. The 1/2" material goes on top of that, then the finished floor. So, maybe it's decking? :huh:
 
I couldn't find any 1/2" particle board, so I just used 1/2" Obscure Stranded Burl (OSB) in our kitchen for the underlayment.
 
I was speaking with someone the other day about laminate floors. He said he's also put down cork under the laminate, which dampens the sound a whole lot better than the bubble wrap or even the foam stuff. Haven't tried it myself, need to check into the cost and see if it's somewhat comparable.

I'd think you'd still want some sheeting under yours Rennie to flatten it out. The 2x6 sub-floor is probably a bit bumpy for direct overlay of flooring. One issue I'm fighting right now with mine is end joint separation of the laminate due to flex in the joists. I've got a couple of areas that I need to add in some bridging. I keep having to pull up the quarter round shoe and beat the pieces back together.

So once the 1/2 particle board is up, what is the difference between the sub-floor and adjoining room? 1/2"? 3/4"?
 
Darren Wright said:
One issue I'm fighting right now with mine is end joint separation of the laminate due to flex in the joists. I've got a couple of areas that I need to add in some bridging. I keep having to pull up the quarter round shoe and beat the pieces back together.
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Don't be surprised if installing bridging does not fix the problem.
Laminate floors are becoming notorious for end joint separation. I have seen some that every end joint in the room has pulled apart. Even when installed over concrete, kinda blows the oh it's separating because of flex between the joist theory out of the water.:dunno::dunno:
 
Darren Wright said:
So once the 1/2 particle board is up, what is the difference between the sub-floor and adjoining room? 1/2"? 3/4"?
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Once the particle boar is up the difference to the adjoining floor is 1/2". So, that's why I'm looking for 1/2" material since I'll be extending the same laminate in the dining room into the kitchen.
 
Chuck Thoits said:
Don't be surprised if installing bridging does not fix the problem.
Laminate floors are becoming notorious for end joint separation. I have seen some that every end joint in the room has pulled apart. Even when installed over concrete, kinda blows the oh it's separating because of flex between the joist theory out of the water.:dunno::dunno:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think it's the flooring in this case as it's not repeated where the floor was stabilized earlier. It's just in this one spot where I know I've have movement. One of the joints I even glued, can see where it pealed away material under where it was glued and re-separated.

Rennie Heuer said:
Once the particle boar is up the difference to the adjoining floor is 1/2". So, that's why I'm looking for 1/2" material since I'll be extending the same laminate in the dining room into the kitchen.
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ah! :thumb:
 
PROBLEM!!

We had these nice pendants picked out for the dining room and kitchen. You may remember I made my own DR fixture so thew would all match.
photo.jpgDSC_0006.jpg

Well, as I was looking at the ceiling today and planning my attack I realized I have a big problem. Somebody put a truss right in the middle of my window making it impossible for me to hang a pendant over the sink without the soffit!:doh::doh:
photo2.jpgphoto3.jpg

As I see it I have only two alternatives. I can install two pendants over the sink (the window is 36" wide and there will be about 6" of open space on either side of the window), or, I can install a low soffit, about 2" down from the ceiling (probably MDF painted to match the cabinets) and use a low profile box attached to the truss. The crown molding I'm using requires 2" from the top of the cabinet to the ceiling, so I would just run the crown straight across.

What says the group?:dunno::dunno:
 
Top center of this pic
box_mix.jpg

Is a 1/2" wall/ceiling box made to be put on a stud/truss. The wire comes into it and the wire nuts are covered by the fixture :thumb:
Top left would work also if the truss is perfect center of the window. Center one will allow for some wiggle room.
 
Chuck Thoits said:
Top center of this pic
box_mix.jpg

Is a 1/2" wall/ceiling box made to be put on a stud/truss. The wire comes into it and the wire nuts are covered by the fixture :thumb:
Top left would work also if the truss is perfect center of the window. Center one will allow for some wiggle room.
Click to expand...
Chuck, I think you saved my bacon!:wave::bow:
 
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