Splitter Safety

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112
Location
Charlotte, NC
I've GOT to get a splitter installed on my table saw (Grizzly 1023 cabinet) I'm looking at the MJ from MicroJig. Since I use Zero clearance plates it seems to be a good choice but it only works on 90 degree cuts.

Any opinions on the MJ splitter or suggestions on an alternate splitter? What did you folks end up with and do you like it?

Thanks...
 
I've GOT to get a splitter installed on my table saw (Grizzly 1023 cabinet) I'm looking at the MJ from MicroJig. Since I use Zero clearance plates it seems to be a good choice but it only works on 90 degree cuts.

Any opinions on the MJ splitter or suggestions on an alternate splitter? What did you folks end up with and do you like it?

Thanks...

Have the Shark Guard with splitters, on my Dewalt Contractor, when I tilt the blade the splitters follow the blade to the angle.
 
MJ splitter here on my 1023.
No issues. Use it everyday almost.

I just bought the new and improved metal one. Haven't installed it yet.
 
Another option is to use a regular splitter and cut a hole (angled or really big if you want to do angle cuts) in the zci for your splitter.

I think about doing this from time to time, but so far I use the micro jig splitter for regular cuts and take out the zci for angled cuts, so I can pop in my bessey splitter.
 
I have the MJ and love it, its really the only one I use. I just bought the new Blue splitter with the metal inside but haven't put it on yet. It is supposed to be tougher and more durable than the first ones they made. I don't have any complaints on it.
 
I have used the Micro Jig Splitter for a little over two years on my General 650 Table Saw. I quite like it and it definately has prevented kick back more than once.

The drawback as you point out is that it does not handle cuts at other than 90 degrees and I don't have an answer for that.
 
[size=+1]Contrary opinion here. I have used - and discarded as useless - the MJ splitter. The first time you really need it - when the kerf closes and pinches it - it will tear out of its mounting holes and will not fit back in properly. Now, in its defense, it does keep the kerf from pinching the blade, and therefore does prevent a potential kickback, but at the expense of its own life. It's essentially a one-time-use item, so it you are going to use it, make sure you have spares on hand.

That said, I almost religiously use the Biesemeyer splitter. If you use thin kerf blades, the Uniguard splitter - at less than half the cost of the Biesemeyer - is a similar design that works very well.[/size]
 
If you read my review on the original splitter I mention that I dont consider the MJ the only splitter one should use. I had a Biesemeyer which was sold with my saw and now I have the Delta drop in splitter (I like the biese better)

I use the MJ Steel pro for much of my work but when the board get's long or I'm cutting sheet goods I prefer to use the taller Delta splitter.

MJ made a prototype taller splitter for me which I like too but I usually switch to the Delta.

If you're going to use the GRR-Ripper then you need a MJ Splitter or one which is low profile.
 
Contrary opinion here. I have used - and discarded as useless - the MJ splitter. The first time you really need it - when the kerf closes and pinches it - it will tear out of its mounting holes and will not fit back in properly. Now, in its defense, it does keep the kerf from pinching the blade, and therefore does prevent a potential kickback, but at the expense of its own life. It's essentially a one-time-use item, so it you are going to use it, make sure you have spares on hand.

That said, I almost religiously use the Biesemeyer splitter. If you use thin kerf blades, the Uniguard splitter - at less than half the cost of the Biesemeyer - is a similar design that works very well.
Jim, it is not useless if it prevents kickback. Yes my old plastic MJ splitters pulled out and sometimes I could not fit them in again. That made them expensive but certainly not useless. But the new metal version is much more durable.
 
Something most people never realized but the splitters are guaranteed for 1 year and if they break you can get them replaced under warranty....so save those receipts.
 
I made an aluminum short splitter to use with the Gripper. Kind of a crummy job with an old piece of aluminum I had laying around. I intended on making a better one but it works good so have just not got around to it. It just slips in where my Delta removeable splitter usually goes. I have a long slot so that I can move it up or down. It tilts with the blade and is pretty strong as I made it the same width as a full kerf blade.

First picture: The Delta splitter of course.
Second picture: The home made aluminum adjustable splitter that I made. The hole in the top does nothing. It was already there.
Third picture: Home made splitter with insert installed. I realize that the blade is to hight or the splitter is to low but did not adjust it from the last cuts that I made using the Delta splitter.
Forth picture: Self explanatory.
 

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Thanks to everyone for the great info.:thumb:
  • I hadn't realized the MJ now came in a tougher metal version. Just checked their web site and saw no mention of it....but called and it is available. (I ordered it)
  • I use the Gripper frequently and hadn't thought of the low profile issue....good point.
  • I could certainly make my own to use on angled cuts.
FYI - the new MJ Steel comes in a kit with 4 units. You have the option of installing two splitters in line, one positioned to the right edge of the saw blade and one aligned to the left edge. This will help compensate for kerfs that are a little wider than the splitter itself. Not all blades are the same thickness and each saw has a bit of vibration that can cause a kerf or saw profile wider than the splitter. There are a few other features of this new MJ Steel that sound interesting. They plan on updating the web site soon and getting product out in the distribution channels. I'll let you know what I think of it when it's installed.

Thanks again for helping me make a decision.
 
Bought my metal one at the woodworking show in KC in february.

Haven't installed it. Still using the plastic version.
 
I'm going to pony up for a metal version when I get my shop going again, I've had enough maple close up on me and I do enough narrow cuts that my stock guard/splitter is not usable. I've shied away from the plastic version, but the steel one makes more sense. now for some new ZC inserts...
 
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