Holster shaping

Darren Wright

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Thought I'd try my hand at some leather work. I couldn't find my leather sewing awl or hole punch. I had picked up a bag of rivets and some clips a couple of weekends ago at the Tandy leather store, so I ended up just riveting all of it instead.
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It's a little over sized. So I'm thinking about giving it a really quick boil to shrink it and stiffen it a bit. Anyone had any luck doing this? Or should I just water soak it (cold) and shape it that way?
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I will be replacing the clips with "J" clips, as the ones I used don't hold the holster on my belt well enough when drawing.
 

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Darren,
I've never boiled leather but in the past when ever I made a holster I would soak the leather, wrap the piece in seran wrap to keep it dry, then I would wrap the leather around the piece and secure it in place with duct tale. That way the leather would conform the the piece.
JMHO
 
Darren, what about cutting out a wooden shape of the gun so the gun does not get compromised in the least? (I would sleep better if it were me making a holster!) Cool idea, neat suggestions Don. :thumb::thumb:
 
I won't be doing any production runs of these, just thought I'd try doing my own before spending money ($30 - $70) for one since I had the leather around. I think I've got about $10 in it so far. I'll at least double bag it. Since it's an IWB (inside waist band) holster, the gun will probably get wetter from me than this. ;)
 
The holsters I have made were deliberately undersized the soaked and the gun inserted so the leather can shape as it dries.
Most of the time I drill my holes on the drill press, makes stitching quick and easy. Rivets or Chicago screws are used on corners where there might be stress.
If you get a beveling tool (cheap and last forever) you will find the edges will look a whole bunch nicer, gives the whole thing a 'finished' look.
Making yer own is always a better way to go. It is how you want it, costs less and there is pride in what you did. Ye earned a :thumb:
 
The holsters I have made were deliberately undersized the soaked and the gun inserted so the leather can shape as it dries.
Most of the time I drill my holes on the drill press, makes stitching quick and easy. Rivets or Chicago screws are used on corners where there might be stress.
If you get a beveling tool (cheap and last forever) you will find the edges will look a whole bunch nicer, gives the whole thing a 'finished' look.
Making yer own is always a better way to go. It is how you want it, costs less and there is pride in what you did. Ye earned a :thumb:

Thanks Frank. Yeah, I did use the drill press for doing the rivet holes. Was a bit hesitant at first to do that, but with the small drill bit it really didn't drill any differently than wood. I did us a piece of scrap wood for a backer when drilling also. I'll be heading over to Tandy again this weekend, will have to pickup the beveling too, probably a new stitching awl too since I can't find my other one...that will make it show up. ;)
 
Thanks Frank. Yeah, I did use the drill press for doing the rivet holes. Was a bit hesitant at first to do that, but with the small drill bit it really didn't drill any differently than wood. I did us a piece of scrap wood for a backer when drilling also. I'll be heading over to Tandy again this weekend, will have to pickup the beveling too, probably a new stitching awl too since I can't find my other one...that will make it show up. ;)

Darren, I have a couple of those stitching awls. The ones with the built in spool. But, I haven't used in years. Somewhere along the line at my rendezvous events, I picked up a couple really large leather work needles. They have a triangular shape and are large enough to get a grip on. I do the double needle method, easy, fast and very strong. I suggest you look for the largest needles Tandy has and get a couple. In the meantime, I'll search to vendors for old timey stuff and see if I can find a source for you to buy some like I have. Not real expensive and last a lifetime.
 
I've used denatured alcohol (DNA) for wetting the leather when I've re-shaped several holsters. It works quite well.

There was an article about using DNA in a Shooting Times magazine - about thirty years ago...
 
I've used denatured alcohol (DNA) for wetting the leather when I've re-shaped several holsters. It works quite well.

There was an article about using DNA in a Shooting Times magazine - about thirty years ago...

So in that case do you not need to cover the firearm? Or is because the alcohol will evaporate and you won't have to wait for the leather to dry as long?
 
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