Spray water based polyurethane finish?

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North West Indiana
Tongue and groove pine, 1450 square feet needs finished. Can I spray water based polyurethane using a spray gun and be successful and have a nice semi gloss finish? This will be for a ceiling. Will have to finish both sides so double the square feet. What would be the best procedure?
 
Not sure what waterbased poly you're considering, but I've sprayed both Minwax PolyCrylic and Target Coatings Ultima Spray Lacquer (USL) with good results. (Target has replaced USL with a similar acrylic lacquer called EM6000.) I've used both a turbine-powered HVLP gun as well as a compressor-powered HVLP gun, and both worked well.
 
if you have 2900 sqf to do, and it is pine, I recommend wiping it on with cotton balls, that way you can make sure it gets into all the wood poors and if there are any rough spots, the cotton ball will snag and let you know you need to touch it up real quick.

Ok, maybe not.:rolleyes:

I've sprayed it with a hvlp gun no troubles(long time ago). The water based seems to dry quicker so maybe want to take that into account. Also if your going to do a second coat, some water based poly's require an abrasion first? Don't remember.

Don't forget to get a good coat on your beard too. I just wouldn't be a good job if you didn't get a good coat of overspray on all your facial hair!
 
if you have 2900 sqf to do, and it is pine, I recommend wiping it on with cotton balls, that way you can make sure it gets into all the wood poors and if there are any rough spots, the cotton ball will snag and let you know you need to touch it up real quick.


Don't forget to get a good coat on your beard too. I just wouldn't be a good job if you didn't get a good coat of overspray on all your facial hair!

A very wise man on both accounts:thumb::rofl::rofl::rofl:
All though I find that a Q-tip works better for applying.:thumb::rofl::rofl::rofl:
Q-tip = Cotton ball on a stick.
 
My my, woodworking comedians. What should we call it, BlueWood Comedy Tour????:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
Thanks for the information. Not to give out privileged information, Chuck and I have pm'd and through his efforts, thinks rolling still might be faster. :huh:
I seriously detest cleaning spray guns. :(
Yep, planned on using the sponge sanders between coats and before hand. Went back through and first thought, COOL, a great way to get a new sander, then saw Chuck did not have luck using his. :dunno:
I could see why, the face of the boards I will be finishing will have the V groove and be tongue and groove. Which begs the next question, spraying the finish, does this affect the tongue and groove from fitting nicely?
It will be a couple of months before I attack this job, it is for my parent's new house on our farm. All of the comments were/are appreciated.
Oh, ya'll ain't got nothin on me, I's gots plenty of horsehair for the final application/applicator! :rofl::rofl::thumb::thumb::doh::rofl::rofl:
 
with the depression yu have jonathan on the wood i think spraying maybe get in there better ,, but chuck has just got threw a bunch of it so he should be more aware of the time frame.. and cleaning guns isnt that bad jonathan, exspecailly if you look at cleaning brushes after wards too..
 
Lately, I've been spraying M.L. Campbell's water-based Pre-Cat Lacquer, and I really like the results. It goes on very nicely, if thinned about 20%. I'm using a small HVLP gun (Harbor Freight). It dries quickly, and sands easily. Just finished a kitchen island with it, and will likely use it for a lot more stuff in the future.

Now for the bad news... It's $55.00 per gallon.
 
I am a real fan of Target Coatings.

Their EM6000 is the successor for USL and is a full burn-in lacquer in a water base finish. I don't know how they do it but it works. It is my primary finish (buy it in 5 gallon pails).

You might want to consider EM1000 sealer - a sanding sealer that brings out the color of the wood better than just starting with EM6000.

I have recently started using EM8000cv which is a water base conversion varnish. It dries slightly slower so it is easier to get a "perfect" coat spraying, but does not have burn in - be very careful sanding/rubbing out. As a conversion varnish the finish is more durable and impervious to liquids than a lacquer.

I have used EM9300 as a super hard top coat, but I think I will standardize on EM8000.

Therefore my spray sequence is EM1000 sanding sealer to pop the color. Build coats with EM6000. If I need a durable (tabletop) finish, final coat or two of EM8000. And I spend less than 2 minutes cleaning the spray gun - none of these finishes are "sticky" in warm water flushing the paint path in a sink.
 
Yes you can "you can Do-it" You will need to sand between coats. Spray 2 good coats on and then spray the finial. I would wait 24 hrs before sanding with either 220 or 320. You can do a little test to see how both sand. I like 320.
 
Dave Hawksford said:
Yes you can "you can Do-it" You will need to sand between coats. Spray 2 good coats on and then spray the finial. I would wait 24 hrs before sanding with either 220 or 320. You can do a little test to see how both sand. I like 320.

With some of the WB lacquers like the ones from Target Coatings, the sanding isn't necessary. As was mentioned, they will burn into previous coats like the solvent-based stuff.
 
Lately, I've been spraying M.L. Campbell's water-based Pre-Cat Lacquer, and I really like the results. It goes on very nicely, if thinned about 20%. I'm using a small HVLP gun (Harbor Freight). It dries quickly, and sands easily. Just finished a kitchen island with it, and will likely use it for a lot more stuff in the future.

Now for the bad news... It's $55.00 per gallon.

I am a real fan of Target Coatings.

Their EM6000 is the successor for USL and is a full burn-in lacquer in a water base finish. I don't know how they do it but it works. It is my primary finish (buy it in 5 gallon pails).

You might want to consider EM1000 sealer - a sanding sealer that brings out the color of the wood better than just starting with EM6000.

I have recently started using EM8000cv which is a water base conversion varnish. It dries slightly slower so it is easier to get a "perfect" coat spraying, but does not have burn in - be very careful sanding/rubbing out. As a conversion varnish the finish is more durable and impervious to liquids than a lacquer.

I have used EM9300 as a super hard top coat, but I think I will standardize on EM8000.

Therefore my spray sequence is EM1000 sanding sealer to pop the color. Build coats with EM6000. If I need a durable (tabletop) finish, final coat or two of EM8000. And I spend less than 2 minutes cleaning the spray gun - none of these finishes are "sticky" in warm water flushing the paint path in a sink.

Yes you can "you can Do-it" You will need to sand between coats. Spray 2 good coats on and then spray the finial. I would wait 24 hrs before sanding with either 220 or 320. You can do a little test to see how both sand. I like 320.

Jim, Charlie and Dave, thanks for that technical information. This will be a first for me, so it is all greatly appreciated! :thumb:


Maken the Kitchen cab out of tongue and grove Pin Jonothan ? :huh::rofl::rofl::rofl:

:rofl::rofl:Always trying to get me to make my wife some kitchen cabinets aren't ya!!!!:rofl::rofl::rofl: Nope, ceiling on my parent's new home on our farm. :thumb:


With some of the WB lacquers like the ones from Target Coatings, the sanding isn't necessary. As was mentioned, they will burn into previous coats like the solvent-based stuff.

:huh:Never heard of such a thing Vaughn, thanks for that good info. :thumb:

Not even once did we have trouble with the tong going in the grove due to the finish. Rolled or sprayed.:thumb::thumb::thumb:

I can only hope that holds true for us also!!!! :thumb:
 
I would use wb lacquer. Spray it on at you will get a much smother finish. For clean up just run warm soapy water thru it right after you finish spraying. The only part of the gun that will need to be cleaned after that will be the nozzel and tip assembly.
 
With some of the WB lacquers like the ones from Target Coatings, the sanding isn't necessary. As was mentioned, they will burn into previous coats like the solvent-based stuff.

Vaughn sorry I got to step in on this one, this is where experience comes in and book knowledge goes out the window: if you want to be able to flick the paint or finish off with your fingernail in a year or 2 then don't sand it helps with stripping also :rofl: I've seen it over and over in the past 30 years. Vaughn the climate plays havoc on finishes and also with out sanding you open up problems with air dirt that is on the finish, and hand grease and what ever else touched the finish that will cause the new finish not to bone properly. I think the sales pitch of not sanding dose a major misjudgetis to the buyer.
 
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