BLO-how long to dry?

Allen Bookout

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I covered a workbench top with a door skin. I will use it partly for assembly. I decided to use boiled linseed oil as I figured that would help with the glue issue if the wax becomes thin. I don't know if that is right or not. I have never used it before and do not have a fininhing book. My questions are: 1. How many coats? I am thinking that when it quits soaking in that is enough. 2. How long between coats if I need more than one. and 3. How long shoud it dry before putting wax over the top of it?
 
Allen, while no expert, I would thin the first coat 50/50 BLO and thinner. Let it soak for 30 min or so then wipe off. Let that sit for two or three days then give it a good coat of BLO, wipe off and let it dry for at least a week, two or three would be better. If you don't wipe it off it will never dry and will become sticky. DAMHIKT
 
Thanks Cecil, To late for thinning the first coat as I put it on a couple of hours ago. Seems like thinning it would have been a good idea to let it soak in deaper. I guess that now I will just wait a few days and go with another coat and wipe it down and wait two or three weeks and then put a few coats of wax on it.
 
Allen, I've always been told that the "smell" test is a good rule of thumb for BLO. When it doesn't smell anymore, then it's time to put your topcoat on. It sounds kinda silly but when it stops smelling the it should be cured.
 
My only experience with boiled linseed oil is observing what others have done on gun stocks. Too often, I have seen cases where the finish seems to never dry and remains forever sticky. That is why I avoid it and use pure tung oil instead. The quality of the product seems to determine if it dries properly. Also, after a period of time, low quality products can get sticky again. Now, this is with something that is handled frequently and gets exposed to the elements. The only product that I know of that has a reputation for going on beautifully, drying properly and remaining that way over many years is Birchwood Casey Linspeed. I don't know what is different about it, but, by reputation, it is the best.
 
Too often, I have seen cases where the finish seems to never dry and remains forever sticky. That is why I avoid it and use pure tung oil instead. .

Now you tell me Frank. Since that you mentioned it I think that I really meant to use tung oil. When I was at the store I was trying to remember what some guy said a while back that he used on his MDF assembly table and all that I could come up with was BLO. Live and learn I guess.
 
Allen, as said above, BLO should dry at least a week or until you can no longer smell it....It will soak in and dry. I use it often after sanding on cherry and walnut prior to shellac and top coat..
 
...The only product that I know of that has a reputation for going on beautifully, drying properly and remaining that way over many years is Birchwood Casey Linspeed. I don't know what is different about it, but, by reputation, it is the best.
Wow, I haven't seen that name around in years. I used Linspeed about 25 years ago as a finish on a lap steel guitar I made, and it's still holding up beautifully. I was under the impression that Lindspeed was just thinned BLO, but perhaps they are adding other things to it. All I know is it created a nice glossy finish after several coats (and good wax afterwards).

Allen, the others have given advice that mirrors my own experience with BLO. The only times I've run into problems with BLO is when I don't wipe it off soon or thoroughly enough. Several thin coats seem to cure much better than one thick coat. I'm sure Marty can relate, after getting the first coat of BLO on his shop floor a bit too thick. ;)
 
Wow, I haven't seen that name around in years. I used Linspeed about 25 years ago as a finish on a lap steel guitar I made, and it's still holding up beautifully. I was under the impression that Lindspeed was just thinned BLO, but perhaps they are adding other things to it. All I know is it created a nice glossy finish after several coats (and good wax afterwards).

Allen, the others have given advice that mirrors my own experience with BLO. The only times I've run into problems with BLO is when I don't wipe it off soon or thoroughly enough. Several thin coats seem to cure much better than one thick coat. I'm sure Marty can relate, after getting the first coat of BLO on his shop floor a bit too thick. ;)

Well, I'm certainly no 'expert' on the application of BLO, (as evidenced by having to rent a buffer to fix my screw-up! :doh: ) That's why I haven't chimed in here before.

I can say though, that wiping it off within 10-15 minutes of application changed things drastically. The floor was 'walkable' immediately after the wiping, and the smell was gone within a day. There's no appreciable difference between the two sides of the floor...one side had a heavy application that wasn't wiped and had to be buffed, the other was wiped within 15 minutes and was cured by the next day.

One thing I'll add is that my experience with PURE tung oil has not been pleasant. That's one product that seems to NEVER dry. Keep in mind, BLO isn't really boiled. It's just had japan drier added to aid in the curing/drying process.

- Marty -
 
I picked up a book at the library today named "Hand-Applied Finishes" by Jeff Jewitt first printed in 1997. This is what I should have done in the beginning. I am mostly a short cut just do it type of guy and that gets me into trouble. There are several types of linseed oil that all act a little differently. I am going to go through this book page by page. I will not remember it all but I should be able to absorb enough information so that I can make an educated guess the next time I am going to try something new. Thanks for the help.

Frank, you were rignt on when talking about the durability of linseed oil when subjected to the elements, especially water.
 
Frank brings up a good point. If you don't wipe the excess off after the initial soak in and wipe the surface down as required over the next few days, you'll end up with too much oil soaked in and you can get that sticky thing going on.

I've used it as a primary colorer (is that a word?) for darker woods followed with a topcoat of wax. Durable and renewable.
 
Wow, I haven't seen that name around in years. I used Linspeed about 25 years ago as a finish on a lap steel guitar I made, and it's still holding up beautifully. I was under the impression that Lindspeed was just thinned BLO, but perhaps they are adding other things to it. All I know is it created a nice glossy finish after several coats (and good wax afterwards).

Allen, the others have given advice that mirrors my own experience with BLO. The only times I've run into problems with BLO is when I don't wipe it off soon or thoroughly enough. Several thin coats seem to cure much better than one thick coat. I'm sure Marty can relate, after getting the first coat of BLO on his shop floor a bit too thick. ;)

The application of several, or many, thin coats is a good approach.
At many muzzle loading events, especially where the primitive reenactors rendezvous, you might see a group of men sitting around a campfire handling a rifle then passing it along to the next person. What they may be doing is applying more oil (high quality boiled linseed) finish with their bare hands. The rubbing with bare hands warms the wood causing the finish to penetrate and give a certain, desirable, luster to the wood. This is also a form of tradition where each friend present helps the new rifle get a good start in life.
BTW, not wanting to disagree with another post here....well, yes I do ;) ....with good oil, an advantage is that more can be added at any time during the life of the item. Thin coats with a quality product and rubbed in well.
 
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