Spray Finishing

Rob Keeble

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Messages
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Location
GTA Ontario Canada
This post has been a while coming....so here goes.


It has bugged me for a lifetime to have a spray gun in my hands. Dont ask me why its the one thing i have always wanted but avoided.

I avoided it primarily had to do with what i percieved to be the need for a huge compressor capable of a healthy number of CFMs of air.

Then a total lack of any prior knowledge and like the darn techie stuff i come to have a love hate relationship with, i did not want to be getting burnt in experiementing with various finishes and guns.

When one reads the reviews in this area on just about any suppliers site its a real mixed bag. Automotive guys are the big users is my guess and hence we have a mix of pro and hobby and auto and wood guys providing reviews which leaves you more confused than anything else.

Another thing, clean up. I hate painting in the house with a passion, even pva so clean up when one has used oil paints always put me off. Same thing for spray guns. I thought each time i use it i would have loads of little parts all over the show and tons of solvent......but its not true i found out.


Then you get guys like Dave H who seem to have been born with one of these devices attached to their hand and been fed an encyclopedia of information on finishes.

So i took the plunge recently when a harbor freight promo ad arrived in my in box and thought what the heck at $15 for a spray gun how can i go wrong and not try it out. The spec said 4.7 CFM at 45 PSI and i figured my PC pancake nailer compressor should do this somewhat. SO what if i have to wait every now and then, so what if i burnt the sucker out they relatively cheap. But i should be so lucky as to get enough time on it to do that, then i would happily replace and have justification for a bigger one.:D

So a dear friend did me the honors after i recieved my gun and together we drove around procured some lacquer from LV and got some of the correct thinners. I was actually very dissapointed in this case with the guy serving at LV because we asked for lacquer thinners and got this handed too us and if you look on their site having just purchased this lacquer which can be brushed or sprayed ( note the back door escape if things dont work out:D) the lacquer supplied is definitely not suitable.

Thank goodness my buddy was suspicious and we actually returned it before leaving the store.

Home depot obliged with the correct thinners but it was an education to note there are two types of what is called thinners. SO if you a newbie like me take note to get the correct one. This is thinners but NOT for lacquer and spraying.

Ok so next issue you need to know is which gun. Well if you in Canada you can get this gun at Princess Auto along with all the attachements you need. But mine came from Harbor Freight for half the price. this is the one i purchased after consultation with a friend here that actually has the same one and knew it would work for my needs.:)

NOTE: I get to produce very little out of my shop right now. Couple of years that will change kids out the house then. But even when i do, its all small stuff. So my needs are just to finish hobby stuff.

What i really would like is a HVLP Earlex unit which woodcraft has on special for $319 right now but i cannot justify it at present it would just be another dust collector to me. So YMMV.

But if you doing small stuff for sale like bottle stoppers and trivets etc, this could be a perfect quick way to get a good finish.


Instructions

So i really could do with doing a proper tutorial here and putting it in a pdf and when time permits i may do it because i think for newbies this is an excellent way to go.

Step 1
Get a couple of mason jars.

Step 2 get hold of a small ladle if you can, something like a gravy boat ladle. I actuall happen to have a couple of stainless little cups which served the purpose but you end up having your finger in the lacquer.

Take 2 measures of lacquer and one measure of lacquer thinners.

Mix in mason jar. Now you set.

Step3
Make sure you sanded your project and then blow off or wipe off very well the dust from the project.

(this stuff is amazing because the test we did was on a scrap project gone wrong where the wood had only been planed and was mahogany which is fiberous etc as a surface and it covered it all)

Step 4 set the pressure regulator on your pancake to 45PSI we actually used even a touch lower. (more about the compressor bit later).

Step 5
Get a large piece of cardboard or something large you can spray on to set the gun up. There are instructions in the manual and i had it easy i had a guiding hand in fact my buddy did the adjusting but showed me how and what i was looking for while spraying test sprays on the sheet of cardboard. You want this sheet to be something that is gonna show the wetting pattern so think of this before you get going.

Ok fill the small gun cup to about 75% full. Put the lid on an be aware. There is something to understand about this gun.

It works on a siphon method. Meaning the air travelling out the nozzle creates a suction that sucks the fluid up the tube and atomizes it.
For that to work there is a little hole in the lid of the spray gun that needs to be kept clean and clear so air can enter.

Then note the three prong lever to tighten the lid onto the cup once you have it clicked into the C hooks on the gun can easily exert enough tension so as to bend the C hooks open. You dont need to tighten it this tight. You only need to snug it up so the seal on the lid keeps the lacquer mix from running out and down the side. Would be different if it were a pressure type spray gun.

Step 6

Pray some lacquer on the board and adjust the airflow and liquid flow settings to get a nice pattern.

There is some logic here that is worth knowing.

There are two ears on the gun nozzle. when they are orientated in horizontal plane then the spray pattern is going to be a vertical oval and when orientated vertically the spray pattern is going to be an oval horizontal.

Set the ears by loosening the threaded cap that holds the nozzle on and rotating them into the horizontal mode. ie vertical oval spray pattern.

WHY? If you use a horizontal pattern then when you pass from left to right with the spray gun the pattern overlaps and can result in you putting down too much lacquer in one pass. Of course if you gonna spray up and down on a unit then rotate the nozzle the other way.

Ok so by now you have the spray gun set you got a nice even pattern of moisture and the oval is coming out vertical.

Step 7.

Wind up the NN by spraying outdoors..:rofl::rofl: Only kidding.

Ok now set the piece you want to spray up and begin with a spray pass starting with the gun trigger open and spraying at a height around 6- 8 inches off the object and get the gun going say 6 or more inches before its spraying on the object. Then take a nice even speed pass across the object you spraying. You can then come back and overlap the next layer and repeat till you coated your object on that side with one coat. Rotate the object and do the same till you have a coat all round.

Note you may need to refill gun before going to far depends on how much you used to get set up and how much you used on your first object. I would strongly suggest you use some scrap wood before you get going on a project just to the feel.

Now let this coat dry, it dries very quickly in fact amazingly so.

Now take 320 sandpaper on a block or preferably some 320 sponge sander and just wipe one stroke across the unit you spraying with the sanding sponge. Only one wipe.

The lacquer will look like white powder as you do this. Then take a nice clean rag and wipe it clean. Or even blow it clean.

Now you can go to finishing another coat and even one more if needed depending on the finish you desired.

Note: I purchased a satin lacquer there are three options . So the grain would show nice but not look glossy. Second, you can coat till the grain is completely covered if you like this or you can coat till some of its still visible. Its your choice. I like the look of gloss sometimes like say on a plane knob or tote but i like the look of satin grain on a flatwork object.

Let the coats dry for at least 2 hours before you shoot again in between layers.

Then you done. You can go to town doing other things after this but this was a good finish and more than adequate for a newbie on hobby projects.
 
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Part 2

Now the extras.

SAFETY>

This is volatile solvent finish so use the proper organic compounds mask.

I have the 3M half mask version with two organic canisters and air filters over the canister.

USe gloves to protect your hands. I now use the nitrile one you get a box of dozens for a few bucks.

VORTEX WARNING

Since i did not want to venture much money in this experiment I initially only bought the gun and the essentials.

But for a usable setup i have now added the following.

1) You need an in line air filter to remove moisture from the air coming out of your compressor.
2) Think of where you gonna spary and get a nice trully flexible hose. The one that came with my pancake is anything but flexible.
3) Buy a pack of dozens of nipples both male fitting and female. Note all my fittings are 1/4 inch. Works fine for my needs.
4) By a pack with lots of couplers in so you can add these to your hoses for quick connect disconnect.
5) Buy a ball valve and fit to the outlet near where you gonna spray at the same location add the filter and one tip add another regulator so its close to where you gonna use the gun.
6) Buy a manifold for your compressor outlet. There are some neat cheap units that are ready tapped for the 1/4 nipples. You can put one on one side and two on the other. This way you "plug in" the single side to the compressor and have dual outlets. I left my set up for my nail gun for the shop as is and ran a second cheap hose to the point of spray near a window as i am using my porch of my shop. Now i can put my hand in the window and shut of the air or regulate the air pressure or even disconnect the hose all within reach of the window opening. I have two air filters, one inline right at the gun and the other this one connected to the ball valve and regulator.

This is where a little vortex comes in with all the above extras you dont see in the front end for the $15 gun.:rofl::rofl::rofl: But its still way cheaper than the spinny vortex. For Canadians Princess Auto is your buddy here they have it all and more at good prices. My total was around $140 with extra hose filter loads of niplles and connectors and ball valve with lever.

Ok last item. Dont do what i did. I did not listen properly or ask clarrifying questions.

Take a board and pop a few nails in it with your nail gun. You want to use say a piece of MDF say 3/8 thick and pop 2 or 2.5 inch nails in it and have them stick through like a nail bed. BUT you dont need to use the whole box and get carried away.:rofl::rofl: Nobody is going to sleep on them. :rofl:

Just put a few in to be able to rest what ever it is you gonna spray on them and have a few points supporting it.

This way the object being sprayed is off the surface. Helps when turning over and also getting to edges with spray.

Now a neat thing i did do was to make a lazy susan rotating table with my mdf and to fit the lazy susan bearing i took it up in a stack which further raised the be of nails off the table top surface. This way you can easily rotate the object and get to all sides and it helps when you get down to eye level and look at it in the light to see reflection off the side and tell how your finish is going on.

Then make yourself a bar and hang some thin wire from it to use as hooks in future should you need to hang something to be able to get at both sides in one go spraying.

Also make a place to put your spraygun. I have not but after seeing Mike H'S Tutorial the other day i now know what to do.:thumb:;):D Thanks Mike.

Well thats it a long one but my name aint Mike so i did this on the fly. When i get a chance i will take pics and clean it up and put it into a pdf but that could be way off so i wanted to share it with ya all so someone may get started if they want to try it out like i did and only have a pancake. NOTE. Check first to see what your pancake is capable of in Air flow. The HF one on sale right now for $40 is not suitable. Looks right but its 1/4 of my cfm hence the price.

Have fun. It changed my outlook on finishing. I still like WIpe on Poly though.:D:thumb:
 
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ya-da ya-da ya-da :rofl:

Rob you just need to come for a visit. I'll have you ready to spray car's, furniture, toys , pen's what ever by the time you leave.

But hey, you got the idea down.

! most important ! cheap equipment will produce a finish exceptable for the short run but will begin going down hill from there. SO the better your equipment the better your end product will be.
 
what Dave said!
Also I highly recommend "Spray Finishing Made Simple" by Jeff Jewett. About 17 bucks on Amazon and it comes with a DVD.
Also, stay away from the Earlex or any of those types...... Stick with your compressor driven guns. The new LVLP's are great and you have far more flexibility with tip sizes. Binks makes a great set up 2qt pressure pot and gun with assorted tips and needles for about 250. By far superior to anything earlex will offer you.
Another thing to consider, strongly, is starting out with a good waterborne. The benefits are too many to list and you can get a beautiful finish that is, in my opinion durable and long lasting. You dont have to worry about blowing up your house or having special fans and such to exaust the fumes. Easy soap and water clean up.

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Binks/SV100PTPSpecial.html
 
There ya go taking all the fun out of spraying :doh::thumb::rofl::rofl::rofl:

I know I know... I had to stop using the stinky stuff when my head started sounding like a 2 person sack race instead of a pack of lemmings going over a cliff everytime I was too lazy to put my respirator on and just pulled the collar of my t shirt up over my nose...... I still cant stand next to a bowl of rice crispies hehehehehe:rofl:
 
I know I know... I had to stop using the stinky stuff when my head started sounding like a 2 person sack race instead of a pack of lemmings going over a cliff everytime I was too lazy to put my respirator on and just pulled the collar of my t shirt up over my nose...... I still cant stand next to a bowl of rice crispies hehehehehe:rofl:
Rich I ended up in the emergency room one day , thought I was having a heart attack ended up with an Asama attack about 10 years ago. I ware mine. Good idea to use it.
 
Back in the days when I painted houses, finished cabinets and woodwork. I spray alot of lacquer, here are some lessons learned, you can passout if you don't ventilate the room your spraying in, wear a respirator or hood with fresh air pumped in to it and if you are a smoker, DON'T light up. :twocents:
 
ok here is a question, for those like dave that do this all the time professionally..

where did you start your experience in spraying finish? was you actually born a pro at spraying? think back to the time when yu switched from the brushes or rags and went to spraying finish, and tell us how you learned or got started..
 
I know I know... I had to stop using the stinky stuff when my head started sounding like a 2 person sack race instead of a pack of lemmings going over a cliff everytime I was too lazy to put my respirator on and just pulled the collar of my t shirt up over my nose...... I still cant stand next to a bowl of rice crispies hehehehehe:rofl:

hey rich,, check your pm's please you have mail:D:thumb::thumb:
 
yeah, Im so ready to start spraying stuff and have it done in a day.

I have to figure out a way that the NN doesnt report me, as Im not on good terms with the local govt here these days.
 
If you guys use waterborne you shouldnt have to worry about all the bull stuff that you have to deal with when using solvent based products.
Also, just simple soap and water clean up.

Another thing, regardless of which way you go, wear a respirator.
All kidding aside from my earlier post regarding pulling my t-shirt up over my nose. I only ever did that when it was a quick run in, quick squirt, and run out again. Never when I was going to be in the booth for any length of time. Still a bozo no no but....
Also, dont do what I did and forget to take your glasses off, as the blow back when I was finishing the inside of a drawer box "lightly" coated them without me realizing it and now they are ruined... :(

You can get into a good spray outfit for under 300 however I would recommend one set up for clears and one set up for colors and never the twain shall meet. I have also found that a pressure pot and pressure fed gun works best for cabinet work as the cups on the gravity or siphon feed guns can restrict you when you are trying to get into tight spaces.

HVLP and LVLP will both run on small compressors.

Another point to consider, the benefits of spraying are a superior finish to brushing and the speed the drawback is the amount of finish lost. you can go through almost twice the amount of product when you spray as opposed to brushing so keep that in mind when figuring a job. Still though the quality and time savings more than offset that.
 
Rich are you saying that if i were to get a pressure pot and a decent normal preszure type spray gun i could run it of a pancake compressor??

What if any is the difference spraying water based lacquer to solvent based as far as a guns needles are concern. What i am trying to say is is the water stuff thicker needing a bigger needle aperture?? If one can dilute it does it need distilled water or straight tap water and what sort of ratio?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
Rich are you saying that if i were to get a pressure pot and a decent normal preszure type spray gun i could run it of a pancake compressor??

What if any is the difference spraying water based lacquer to solvent based as far as a guns needles are concern. What i am trying to say is is the water stuff thicker needing a bigger needle aperture?? If one can dilute it does it need distilled water or straight tap water and what sort of ratio?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Hi Rob, you shouldn't need anything special to run waterbornes, infact many if not most are coming already formulated for HVLP with no thinning necessary. Look into General Finishes brand.

http://www.generalfinishes.com/professional-waterbase-finishing-products

Any of their Enduro line is rated for commercial use. Also their industrial base waterborne stains. (recoat in 2 hours or less! Just spray and let dry no wiping necessary)
(if you do find a need to thin it down then yes distilled water 10% will do it)
With the pressure feed system you can go with a smaller tip size. I use a 1.1 but on my gravity fed gun the same finish I use a 1.7. the LVLP air cap makes a huge difference on my compressor. I even see a big difference on how often my 26 gal cycles when I am spraying.

It's also so nice to be able to just bring the gun over to the sink and run warm water with dish soap through it to clean it out. (And if (when) I get lazy and the finish sets up in the gun then lacquer thinner will break it right down and get the gun clean.) After cleaning with soap and water I will run a little DA through it to get the water out of the lines etc then its ready for the next project.

This is the gun and pot I have and I have gotten excellent results from it. I run it in my shop off of a 26 gal compressor and in the field off of my 2 gallon hot dog makita! 2 - 3 horse will be enough to drive it for small projects.

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/Binks/SV100PTPSpecial.html
 
+1 for waterborne finishes. I'll just call it waterbase polyurethane, as that's how it's usually marketed. Knowing what the product is may make the decision of what to buy easier. There is a bit of confusion in labeling. For example, marketing a product called "waterbased lacquer" seems to be a bit weird. There may be some alien resins as ingredients, but read the info on what is recommended for thinning or clean-up.

If it calls for water, it's basically a waterbased polyurethane. Check the ingredients. Most all WB polys are a couple of clicks around a glycol of one type or another.

If it calls for lacquer thinner(acetone based)...it's lacquer. If it calls for paint thinner (mineral spirits)...it's an oil base. If it calls for DNA (denatured alcohol)...it's a shellac.

I quit using lacquer about 20 years ago for a multiple reasons. Even with a legal spray booth, it's toxic as all get out. I didn't like dealing with bushing, even though I used retarder. South Florida is very humid. I had tried WB poly when it first came out, and was pleased with the results. Since then, improvements have been made to the chemistry, and IMO, it's as durable as lacquer, and dries fast, has an easy clean up, and can be sprayed in any weather conditions. I'll not go back to lacquer.

Choosing a gun for spraying finishes doesn't have to be made difficult. Playing around with the settings and adjustments as per the material being used makes for a good start. I've never had to purchase various needle tips to achieve a good finish. Maybe it's just me, but I see the hoopla about different tips, and of all the guns I have used, they work pretty well right out of the box.

As for compressor size, check the CFM demand for the gun. If the compressor doesn't put out that or more at the pressure required by the gun, you will have a few problems. It's not in the tank size, as that can be thought of as a plus if larger reserve tanks can be added. It's the CFM output. Once the existing tank depletes to the "kick on" pressure, the compressor will run continuously to both fill the tank, and support the tool. If the demand is great enough, the compressor won't be able to keep up, and will run continuously. This allows the compressor to produce hot air to the output.

Unless you have a good filter setup away from the the tank (like at the end of your airline), moist air will blow by your tank filter. The compressor will run to its capacity, and if those CFM's are lower than the demand of the gun, the gun will not perform properly.



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I know I know... I had to stop using the stinky stuff when my head started sounding like a 2 person sack race instead of a pack of lemmings going over a cliff everytime I was too lazy to put my respirator on and just pulled the collar of my t shirt up over my nose...... I still cant stand next to a bowl of rice crispies hehehehehe:rofl:

Heck Rich that wasn't the finish it was the BO.:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Mike and Rich

my questions continue.

One big eurika for me with regards to the lacquer finish that was an eye opening for me (lets remember now i am a beginner...not novice,,,,not intermediate and certainly no pro) was to learn that in the case of a finish like say wipe on poly, the various layers one puts on adhere to each other through the grip of one surface on another. They never really blend into each other.

This is an element that in all the finishing articles etc that i have read, I had never picked up.

Its confused me no end as a woodworker, how we hear of guys doing blo then shellace then a poly or lacquer and so forth in numerous piles of layers which i could not understand how they bind or bond together and adhere and what the purpose of each was.

To be honest many times i have wondered just how much the people doing some of this really understand what he heck is going on cause sometimes it makes absolutely no sense to me and heck i have no ability to question it.

Now with the lacquer being solvent based, as i understand it, each layer binds with the next chemically by the solvent in the following coat essentially melting the prior coat and the two coats then combining as one.

Now whats this mean in advantage. Well when i saw a run, which i am an expert in making,:D:rofl: get quickly wiped away after making it and then another layer is applied and you cannot tell any issue existed then i say voila this is a magic coating.

Can the water based finishes do this. I mean water does not evaporate as fast as lacquer. So i start to see issues in the science which says we have to watch humidity then if not its essentially a chemical reaction such as poly is how does it work. Because in my experience with poly (not in the finishing form but in the general sense just take gorilla glue its poly) is that this reaction process does not leave room for cover up. You need to sand it down take it away and start again.

Yeah as to the marketing of the finishes, Mike i appreciate no end what you said. I wish the non technical guys would get out of marketing technical products. To me they do more harm than good trying to think we all gulible consumers and i am multiple times bitten thousand times shy to say the least. If a product is what they claim it to be it will stand up for its own reasons. A con job gone sour makes me bitter towards a product and the whole brand.:mad: Hence all the questions.

You go to buy a compressor or a shop vac or anything with a motor in it and its like the guys do on power amplifiers. HP (horse power) suddenly does not meant what it scientifically does. Suddenly you need to be able to calculate the true power yourself from the stated current that is if they state the current. So we have Peak HP. Meaningless. Same as amplifiers you have 250 Watts.. 250 what type of watt. Peak average or the one and only RMS (route mean square). But the mine is bigger than yours logic gets mixed in here and the brains leave the stadium so the box now has 250 on it.DUH.

I dislike overcomplicating the issue of spraying but the basis of me posting my long diatribe was to allow guys like myself understand that you can get your feet in the water for very little cost and try out the concept. Then upgrade if all you have right now is a pancake and you only do small projects.

I would love to go water based. There are so many benefits, especially in my case.

I think i will give it a try. :thumb: But need to understand more.

Now i am thinking of upgrading the compressor.....;):D
 
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One big eurika for me with regards to the lacquer finish that was an eye opening for me (lets remember now i am a beginner...not novice,,,,not intermediate and certainly no pro) was to learn that in the case of a finish like say wipe on poly, the various layers one puts on adhere to each other through the grip of one surface on another. They never really blend into each other.

In finishes like oil base varnishes and polyurethanes, and WB polyurethanes, that is true. What's needed is a light scuff sanding, with 320x, to give a grip to the next application. I recommend using an open coat sandpaper, called "no-fil", or "fre-cut". It's a light gray silicone carbide (for dry use). It's not the wet-or-dry stuff.

Its confused me no end as a woodworker, how we hear of guys doing blo then shellace then a poly or lacquer and so forth in numerous piles of layers which i could not understand how they bind or bond together and adhere and what the purpose of each was.

Some finishes need intermediary applications that create a final finish. A basic finish could be just a clear topcoat, comprised of a film finish, like any clear coatings. A stain can be used, primarily to change the color, and/or to enhance the look. Doing this, I would recommend doing samples, as either bare wood, or stained (or dyed for that matter) will look different once an application of anything is applied.

Some finishes, like an oiled finish may not be compatible with the topcoat to be used. In cases like that, a dewaxed shellac application acts like a barrier coat. But, once you start experimenting with stains, oils, and topcoats, you'll find that once an application has dried/cured, most topcoats can be used.

Now with the lacquer being solvent based, as i understand it, each layer binds with the next chemically by the solvent in the following coat essentially melting the prior coat and the two coats then combining as one.

Now whats this mean in advantage. Well when i saw a run, which i am an expert in making,:D:rofl: get quickly wiped away after making it and then another layer is applied and you cannot tell any issue existed then i say voila this is a magic coating.

The trick is not to get runs. Spraying an oil base topcoat is more than difficult. I try not to use that method. Making a wiping version is a very fail safe method for application.

Can the water based finishes do this. I mean water does not evaporate as fast as lacquer. So i start to see issues in the science which says we have to watch humidity then if not its essentially a chemical reaction such as poly is how does it work.

Spraying lacquer can be a problem with humidity. In many cases adding retarder will allow the moisture to flash off. In heavy humidity, the atomized spray will trap moisture in the air and take it to the subject. If it's bad enough, you can see the spray turning white while it's on its way to ruining your day.

Yeah as to the marketing of the finishes, Mike i appreciate no end what you said. I wish the non technical guys would get out of marketing technical products. To me they do more harm than good trying to think we all gulible consumers and i am multiple times bitten thousand times shy to say the least. If a product is what they claim it to be it will stand up for its own reasons. A con job gone sour makes me bitter towards a product and the whole brand.:mad: Hence all the questions.

That's why it's good to know what you're working with. As we can see, manufacturers can call their product anything they want to in order to sell it.

You go to buy a compressor or a shop vac or anything with a motor in it and its like the guys do on power amplifiers. HP (horse power) suddenly does not meant what it scientifically does. Suddenly you need to be able to calculate the true power yourself from the stated current that is if they state the current. So we have Peak HP. Meaningless.

Horsepower is not the critical factor in figuring a spray system. What you need to calculate is CFM's. It's also not in PSI's, as most finishes with a common siphon cup and gun only need about 50PSI-60PSI. It's their CFM (cubic feet per minute) that's a critical factor. A small pancake compressor is great for small projedcts, like shooting brads and staples, as there are just short bursts, and there is usually recovery time for it to catch up. Some spraying or air tool use requires high CFM, over longer periods.



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Mikes got your questions pretty well covered there. The only thing I would ad is that WB finishes have come a long way since they were first introduced many moons ago. And, like all types of products there are good brands and not so good brands. One manufacturer that I used, has a quality product but what I have found is that as their finish built it took on a "plastic" look which I wasnt too fond of. The manufacturer I am using now (General Finishes) I can spray 4 or 5 coats sanding between and it looks beautiful.
some of your waterbornes will give you problems with grain raising others not so much due to how they are formulated. There are waterbornes out there now that are modified alkyd resins and oils.
I have only been getting into finishing, seriously, for about 3 or 4 years now and I can honestly say I still have a lot to learn. (Which is what makes this field so much fun. you are always learning something new or being challenged one way or another)
I will disagree with one point Mike made regarding tips and needles. Matching the correct tip to the viscosity of the fluid being sprayed is crucial to proper atomization. Can you play around with the settings and get it to work? Yes sometimes, but I can attest to the fact that I have gotten more frustrated with finishes when I havent had the correct tip for the viscosity of my material and it either doesnt flow or it sputters.
If your product states it is formulated for HVLP then it is going to be pretty thin stuff and you would use a small tip like a 1.1 or 1.4 at most on a pressure feed gun. on a siphon or gravity you need a larger tip such as the 1.4 or 1.7 so the product will flow correctly and atomize.

Mike and Dave have many years of finishing experience above me so Im sure they have picked up all kinds of little tricks to make things work when needed :)
 
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