Drilling bench dog holes in a workbench

I did mine by hand, yes I had to sweat a bit, but with a sharp auger bit, it really was not that hard, and what is wrong with a little sweat, burned a few calories for sure :D
 
I have done it several ways. The plunge router is tops in my experience. I really like his built in backer board on the guide. That was always a clumsy issue for me; clamping on a separate backer. I am just now considering more dog holes so this comes at a great time. Many thanks Rich.
 
I used a brace and bit to drill the dog holes in my bench. The top is almost 4" thick and it was the only tool I had to drill that deep. I then went underneath to relieve the holes so the hold downs could wedge and lock in properly.
 
OK, dog holes aren't something I'm familiar with, so help me a little here. The Workmate table by B&D has 3/4" holes in it, as do my Jobmate work tables from Canadian Tire. The only things I have to put in the holes are some stop blocks about 3/4" high. What else can I get to put in the holes, and where would I shop for them? I am going to make some low-profile stoppers to allow me to plane some thin stock, but what else is around?

Thanks
 
Roger Tulk said:
OK, dog holes aren't something I'm familiar with, so help me a little here. The Workmate table by B&D has 3/4" holes in it, as do my Jobmate work tables from Canadian Tire. The only things I have to put in the holes are some stop blocks about 3/4" high. What else can I get to put in the holes, and where would I shop for them? I am going to make some low-profile stoppers to allow me to plane some thin stock, but what else is around?

Thanks

Dog holes like he's referring to have to be pretty deep (thick work bench top) to use most traditional accessories. I think the min for most holdfasts are about 2-2.5". A typical "dog" is simply a peg used just as you described your doing to plane boards. Generally speaking they are most useful when the item is tightly clamped between them so you'll see dog on the front and side vice as well.

If you google workbench hold downs you'll see the iron ones that look like a J that are placed in the hole and the top is struck with a mallet securing the work piece down because the of the canted wedge friction in the dog hole.

I notice you've asked a couple questions about traditional hand tools... I highly highly recommend that you look-up Roy Underhill and watch some of his series "the woodwright shop" on PBS. Many are available on-line. It's a great way to feed that new found old-school traditional woodworking addiction and they are quite enjoyable to watch!
 
Roger Tulk said:
OK, dog holes aren't something I'm familiar with, so help me a little here. The Workmate table by B&D has 3/4" holes in it, as do my Jobmate work tables from Canadian Tire. The only things I have to put in the holes are some stop blocks about 3/4" high. What else can I get to put in the holes, and where would I shop for them? I am going to make some low-profile stoppers to allow me to plane some thin stock, but what else is around?

Thanks

The most important tool if you work with hand tools is a properly designed work bench. My work improved greatly when I started using my Roubeau bench.

I have attached a picture of my planing fence, a hold fast and a Veritas Bench Pup. The Bench Pup serves as my End Vice.
 

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In the original video that started this string, he had some metal hold-downs that he locked in place with a mallet. I just bought some adjustable vinyl clamps from Woodworker's Supply (Cat# 106700) that seem to work well for light duty work.

I have a follow-on question. The holes in my old B&D Work Mate appear to be just bigger than the usual 3/4 inch. The dogs that came with the bench won't go in a 3/4 inch hole. Any ideas what size they may be?

Thanks
 
The holes in my old B&D Work Mate appear to be just bigger than the usual 3/4 inch. The dogs that came with the bench won't go in a 3/4 inch hole. Any ideas what size they may be?

Thanks

I had some of those as well. I fooled about trying to sand them down to fit but, eventually just tossed them. I would not alter from the 3/4" that so many aftermarket accessories are made for just to use the B&D dogs. :lemon: For most of my dog use I have 3/4" oak dowels cut to about 3" (my bench thickness) with a little bullet catch set in to act as a spring. I started with a sort of mushroom cap dipped in rubber but, eventually cut those off to allow the dogs to be pushed below the surface. I then just poke them from below to raise them for use.
 
Just a question...why couldn't one use a plunge router & a spiral up cut bit?

That is the way Glenn and I did my bench. It was perfect until I wanted to add 4 more holes a year and a half later and I forgot one essential step---I didn't clamp the guide template down for the first hole. Therefor I have one new cruddy hole and three more great holes.

This was not expensive education. However, it sure is embarrassing education.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
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