I need a suggestion.......

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Thursday 9/22, 2011 I am scheduled for a Rob Cosman class covering tuning hand planes.

It's a 4 hour class. It is being held in the Woodcraft Store in Spokane, WA.

I have a couple cheap planes......I mean really cheap.....I have a Stanley block plane that the throat isn't adjustable....and I have a Master Mechanic smoother.....that we'll just say currently looks like a handplane.

I believe I would like a reasonably priced block plane of reasonable quality that I can purchase at Woodcraft before the class if one is available there. Otherwise I plan on taking my cheapo Stanley block plane.

Give me some ideas .....low angle......regular angle block plane......prices.....

I will never be a Neander but I recently found good reason to use sharp handplanes and chisels.

Thanks!


Thanks!
 
The newer version Wood River (Woodcraft's house brand) planes are actually pretty nice. Cosman even makes/sponsors the blades & chipbreakers for them.

As for the new version Stanleys, I've not heard anything good about them. Supposedly, they're little better than kits, and require a lot of work to make decent. The couple examples I've had my hands on pretty well bore that out.
 
ken dont buy any just for that class just go and listen to him he has the planes there for the class.. i have taken the same class and its a good one.. and as for a plane to use the first plane in my book is the 60 1/2 adjustable mouth low angle block.. and they can be gotten of ebay or others reasonably.. i have two and right now wouldnt part with either:) the next plane to have would be the number 4 and again a older model stanley can be ahd for around 25 to 40 dollars..wait till you see the class to get them and then use what you have learned on them..
 
I agree with Larry, Ken. If the instructor has planes you can use there then go with them. Pick yourself up some nice older Stanley's on ebay. To Larry's list I would add a good 5-1/2 and possibly a 7.
Besides my block planes, those are the 2 I reach for most often. I have 3's-8's and several block planes.

Whether you become a neander or not, there is always a place for a few well tuned and razor sharp handplanes in the shop. Once you use a well tuned one you will always seem to reach for them first!

Good luck with the class!:D
 
Agree 60-1/2 low angle type block plane and a #4 or 4-1/2 smoother would be my first two choices. I suspect from the marketing I've seen that they'll have some of the new wood river handplanes at the class. Rob Cossman is the rep for that new line it sems:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021170/29725/WoodRiver-4-Bench-Hand-Plane-V3.aspx


I'd just try what they have before buying at least. If you want to pick something up from woodcraft though, woodriver looks the best they have for sale online to me. I'd stay away from the new regular stanleys, groz, or foot print planes. No experience with the new stanley sweatheart planes, but from reviews I've read they are a little rough for the price.
 
I do not consider my self a neander by any means. However, once I got a decent, sharp plane, I found that I use it far more than I figured. I also do all sorts of things that I never considered I could.

I have not practiced very much with the planes I have. However, I studied and can adjust them quite well and I can really sharpen the irons.

The old planes I had were Stanleys. One was an ancient Sweetheart that someone had modified a bit. They were difficult to adjust and they were not a love to use. They were a couple block planes, a "Jack" and a "Jointer."

I gave all of them except one block plane away. If I am going to do something that might endanger the plane I use the Stanley block. For anything else I use a wonderful wooden plane that Tony Ciuraneta made for me or one of my Veritas units. The Hock iron unit in Toni's plane is a great product.

Enjoy and good luck,

Jim

After 65 years of using a plane only in desperation (because nothing else would do what I needed), it is truly wonderful to pick up a plane that really works. Please understand, I do not consider myself good with a plane. I just consider myself---what?---Well, I just do not hesitate to pick up a plane and I can pretty much do what I want to with it.
 
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Ken you may not be a neander now but you will be when you get back.:D:thumb:

I go with what Larry said and get a feel for all of their planes at the course first.

Then look around. For my money if you got the loot when you back the LV low angle block plane is my best. I know they have a new smaller supposedly smarter design but this one is a beauty. Nice adjustment everywhere. Solid well machined and fits a mans hand very comfortably. Its my go to plane.

Then when you back look around and get some old stanleys. You will have the knowledge by then to be able to revamp a half decent second hand buy of one and save a small fortune on the premium units.

Best of luck and enjoy the course it should be very informative and entertaining. :thumb::thumb:
 
Larry's suggestions were good if you want to try refurbing an old plane. My original response was based on the assumption that you wanted a NEW one.

#4s are plentiful, and as a result, are one of the cheapest models out there. A decent one can be had for around $30.00. I've paid as little as five bucks for them. #3s, slightly smaller, are also nice, and quite handy and are also fairly easy to find.

The most common one seems to be the #5. It's 14" long, and 2¼ wide. Considered a "Jack" plane, it's a good compromise between a fore plane and a smoother, and does both jobs pretty well.

As for a block plane, the 60½ is a nice little plane, and they're plentiful and relatively cheap. My favorite older block plane, though, is the #65. Slightly bigger (wider) than the 60½, and somewhat harder to find, it's a great low-angle block plane.

For a NEW block plane, it's hard to beat the Veritas. Very well made, and comes in either standard pitch or low angle. Slightly cheaper than a Lie Neilson - which is also an excellent plane.
 
I'm not an expert either but I have and use handplanes even though I'm mostly a turner.

The answer to your question depends on what you want out of the class.

If you want to learn how to sharpen and tune handplanes then by all means use the ones provided-if they are indeed provided.

If you want to leave the class with a sharp and tuned plane ready to use, then buying one of the Woodriver planes that Woodcraft carries is a reasonable way to go. Or whatever else they may have.

As has already been mentioned, a low angle block plane has a multitude of uses-even for a turner.:rolleyes::D;) Beyond that, a #4 smoother or #5 jack are both very useful.

As you probably know, this is as slippery a slope as turning.

Have fun!
 
Well......I attended the class last night. I learned a lot. I saw a lot....... and Larry you will be proud of me. I walked out of WoodCraft in Spokane without any thing but 2 of Rob Cosman's videos.

The guy is knowledgeable, friendly, informative and I enjoyed the class. I came out realizing IMHO......if you bought into his methods, the Shapton stones were the first thing you need.

My wife has been in Illinois for over 2 weeks and I won't spend that kind of money without discussing it with her prior to doing it. She affords me the same respect.

The new line V3 line of WoodRiver planes were, indeed, designed around his constant critiques and suggestions. During the class, he disassembled several new and old stanley and other brand hand planes to show the class comparisons to the WoodRiver V3 equivalent and why changes were made. Some of the changes from a mechanical standpoint were well thought out IMHO.

I can see 3 or 4 WoodRiver V3 handplanes in my future.

I bought his Handplane Revival video and his Chisel video. It so happened one of them was on sale.

How many people here use Shapton stones?

If not, what method of sharpening do you use for handplanes and chisels?

Thanks.
 
Ken, I have Shapton pro stones, 1K and 8K. They do give a great edge. I also have a Norton 4K/8K combo waterstone. It too gives a great edge. I also use old oilstones that I picked up for next to nothing at garage/estate sales. Washita, and Black Ark. And you know what? They give a great edge.

My initial flattening is done on 3/8" glass with 100-150, then 220, then 320 then 400 grit sandpaper. Then on to whichever stones I'm using. The waterstones give more of a mirror polish, but the oilstones are much easier to use, especially freehand. The waterstones can get pretty bad gouges if I happen to catch the edge of the iron on a forward stroke, which can happen when honing free hand.

I don't think it's a matter of which is better, it's a matter of what you can afford, what you can find, how lucky you get looking, and which feels best in your hand. I have to say, that for me, the oilstones feel best by far. I use a mix of kerosene and Marvel Mystery Oil in a little squeeze bottle. One of these days I need to do a side to side pictorial comparison.
 
That's great Ken! Handplanes are a lot of fun on their own. There is something very satisfying about bringing back an old plane from the ashes so to speak and using it on a project. Although as far as new planes go, those Woodrivers look quite nice. Loosely based on the Bedrocks I assume?
I use the DMT Diasharp plates. I have the coarse, fine and extra fine and I use the Veritas sharpening system. I also have the cambering wheel as well. (although I still have a bit to go to get the right camber on my blades.)
I always keep the fine or extra fine plate handy at my bench or within easy reach when I am using chisels or a plane for touch ups while I am working. (I lose patience way too easy after standing over a stone for more than ten or fifteen minutes:eek:)
 
well ken glad you enjoyed it:) and as for the shapton stones i wouldnt spend the money on them ,,they are good but not that good for my wallet,, ken has seen what i use and its real simple sandpaper glass and then some norton water stones.. and have used diamond as well..to some extent the shaptons are like mercedez cars ,,really good and do what they say they will do but pricey,, the nortons are the ford or chevy brand and can do it too just not as comfy or prestigious:) from what i have seen of you ken we arent the mercedez type:):rofl::rofl: oh and ken has sharpened a plane iron at my place that had no shaptons:)
 
Yup yup, and if I remember correctly, it came out just fine.

BTW, I bought my Shaptons second hand, more than anything out of curiosity to see if they were really that much better than the rest. Jury is still out.
 
I'd agree with Larry and Ken.

I bought the Shaptons, just because I was tired of using a hodgepodge of things. But I think the Nortons would work just as well.

If I remember Rob only uses a few shaptons and skips quite a few numbers in between, so you wouldn't necessarily need a complete set.
 
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