non leaky skylights??

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,741
Location
Delton, Michigan
i have installed afew of these rascals nad knock on wood havnt had to fix any leaks but this was back when its was the generals resposbilty so dont know if they did or not,, what is your take on these critters,, i wouldlike to have some sky light in my shop and will have a 6/12 pitch, so any input on what your experience are would be appreciated good or bad. i am looking for a size that would fit between the trusses. and more than one. unless the report comes back against them. i have an opiinion as of now but willtake yur wisdom at a higher ranking cept fer steve he,s biased:D
 
You get what you pay for. ;)

Anderson, Pella, Vellux. High end but they don't leak if installed properly. I am sure there are other good brands but these I never see leaks around.

Plastic bubbles....... don't waste your money!
 
yeah jeff i understand that thought process the ones i had been involved with were anderson, but i aint real big on anderson windows. the perma sheild ones are good but i dont like there idea of extension jambs and the way they put them together.
 
Larry, when we built our finishing room extension onto the shop, we put skylights in (nearly 3 years ago), and bought the house brand from Lowe's- They are 2x4', aluminum, and they sit up off the roof decking. They are permanent--non-opening. They haven't leaked any--if they are installed correctly (caulked very well with roofing caulk), and the flashing, paper, and roofing are all installed correctly, they shouldn't leak at all. We've had two of the same skylights on the house for over 11 years with no leaks. We love 'em.

Nancy
 
Larry, I agree with Jeff. Most of the problems with leaking is due to a bad installation. In addition, you can add Marvin to the list of good windows/skylights.

I am curious as to why you dislike Andersen products. I had Andersen in Ohio over 30 yrs. ago, and I have always regarded them as a quality product.

We currently have Marvin windows throughout the the house and shop. The best patio door I have ever encountered is the Marvin we have at our patio entry. It glides smoothly and easily. It has a double locking system where there are two latches that hold the door shut and operated from one lock knob.
 
Over the last 16 years, I have installed 11 skylights of varying sizes in my different buildings at home and at Pellow's Camp. I have also helped to install about 10 skylights for friends. Of these, 4 were installed on existing roofs and the rest were installed at the time of building. The pitches varried from 3/12 to 7/12. All are in regions with heavy snow load. All the skylights were Vellux and all were installed with meticulous attention to the proper installation guidelines. None have ever leaked. :)
 
Ken,
Andersen's are still wood. They have to be painted, maintained, and can get painted shut, rot, etc.

The best windows to have, either for new contruction or for retrofit, are extruded vinyl--they won't warp, don't need painting, won't rot, and they slide smoothly. The only downside that we have found is that they are limited in colors at this point. I haven't seen any brown ones---yet. We have Pozzi builders series in our house and love them.

Just my .02.

Nancy
 
Larry, I agree with Jeff. Most of the problems with leaking is due to a bad installation. In addition, you can add Marvin to the list of good windows/skylights.

I am curious as to why you dislike Andersen products. I had Andersen in Ohio over 30 yrs. ago, and I have always regarded them as a quality product.

well ken i am a firm beliver in being built well and i have had the opportunty to see some of another brand being built and used them in many app;ications. i used to work in aluber yard and from what i saw then in anderson wasnt impressive. but that was yrs ago so i may be talking out school now..
 
larry, my experience with skylites is that in addition to the factory flashing properly installed step flashing and a soldered cap flashing at the time of shingling is money well spent......tod
 
larry, my experience with skylites is that in addition to the factory flashing properly installed step flashing and a soldered cap flashing at the time of shingling is money well spent......tod

i was all caught with ya tillyou hit the soldered cap flashng i think i know but am gonna sk for detail if you got the time tod. i could ty to explain my toughts but if were wrong then i would be wasting time..just a quick explan from my brain would be to solder the top flas to the last card or make a end cap for the size needed.
 
larry, the cap should have ears that extend out on the roof as far as the step flashing, and a curb that extends up to close to the sealed edge of the lite......so in effect it`s a shingled in place curb set close enough to the body of the skylite that falling rain/snow can`t get between it and the skylites built in flashing.........some of the higher end units include both the step flashing and cap as part of their installation package....just use common sence when you install it(them) and don`t rely on some gunk in a tube for a water seal........properly installed flashing should outlive at least 2 shinglings...tod
 
larry, the cap should have ears that extend out on the roof as far as the step flashing, and a curb that extends up to close to the sealed edge of the lite......so in effect it`s a shingled in place curb set close enough to the body of the skylite that falling rain/snow can`t get between it and the skylites built in flashing.........some of the higher end units include both the step flashing and cap as part of their installation package....just use common sence when you install it(them) and don`t rely on some gunk in a tube for a water seal........properly installed flashing should outlive at least 2 shinglings...tod
Right on Tod! And, I don't want to sound like I am a shill for Vellux, but thier windows come with both the flashing and the cap.
 
well ken i am a firm beliver in being built well and i have had the opportunty to see some of another brand being built and used them in many app;ications. i used to work in aluber yard and from what i saw then in anderson wasnt impressive. but that was yrs ago so i may be talking out school now..

I am surprised to hear that. Oh well, things change with time, and not always for the good.

Thanks for the update:)
 
I'd tell you what I've been installing in my new custom home builds for the past 17 years, with no problems, leaks, failures, etc.....but you said I was biased...so I'll keep my mouf shut.

And I read instructions too.:D
 
Installation is Key

I also have 4 Velux skylights in my home. 3 of which have leaked. If it was up to me I wouild get rid of them, but the wife loves them.

The 3 that leaked were on a 4/12 pitch roof which was the minimum supported. They were not installed correctly. I paid on 2 different occaisions to have a pro repair and they still leaked. I finally complained to Velux and they sent a rep out. (They gaurentee they don't leak if installed correctly. ) THe one that has never leaked is on a 12/12 pitch and I think the water shoots by so fast it doesnt matter.

They determined that the good ol boys that installed them dud not read the instructions. I had to go buy new flashing since they nailed thru the flash into the deck instead of only the sides of the skylight.

Bottom line. You must follow the instructions exactly. Don't add extras for good measure. My installers put all types of caulk around the unit. Velux told me to take it off, since it allows water to pool. Just do as instructed and you should be ok.

P.S. I ran into my builder long after my leaks happened. I asked him about the skylights. He hates installing them so much that he now has 2 prices for skylights; cheap price for owner never calls me again, and expensive price for me to come back out and fix them when they leak. He has no faith in putting holes in a roof.
 
Larry -- If your looking for light -- check out a solar-tube. We use them a lot in Florida, I put two in our formally dark living room and it was incredible how bright it became.

If your not familiar with them, a solar tube starts with a clear dome on the roof connected to a tube with a super highly reflective mirror finish on the inside. A diffuser goes in the ceiling to evenly deflect the light.

I use the Solatube ( http://solatube.com/res_brightenup.php ) obtained at a local contractors supply yard. It's double the price of the borg brands, but worth it. I used two 10"" tubes in the living room and plan to put a 14" in the kitchen. The flashing and cap were much more substantial then the borg brands, so far it has not leaked (been in for 1 1/2 years). A buddy of mine helped me installed them in an existing roof, took about 6 hrs for both. Check it out -- they are really neat and if it's sunlight you want, they are the ticket.

BTW: I am not in anyway affiliated with Solatube or the supply house, just a very pleased customer.
 
larry, this thread and the sunlight one are really buggin’ the bejezus outta me. The only real data you have given us thus far about your proposed shop is that it may have a six in twelve pitch truss roof. The only questions you have asked are which corner has the best light for finishing and what are the best skylights.

Since you have not been very forthcoming with us, I will respond in opposite kind:::!

1) Orient the ridge of your building 15° east of the E/W line.

2) Put some windows on the South side. Winter light will penetrate deeply into your shop… you may wish to diffuse and/or refract this light to reduce contrast in winter

3) Seat the trusses 10 foot high.

4) Scratch the skylight idea right now… they are for selling condos.

5) Scratch as well any thought of a cathedral ceiling…heat rises.

6) Build your ceiling at the ten foot level of your trusses. It will be cheap and easy to insulate.

7) Install some of the tube lighting that others have recommended. Whether in winter or summer, or on the north or south slope of your roof, those babies spread light all over in a very usable way. Skylights tend to create areas of very bright light and shadow… Also remember that in Michigan the sun is close to directly overhead on the summer solstice, so skylights will tend to heat your shop, whereas a light tube will transmit diffuse light to your workspace through a ventilated attic.

8) Oh right, ventilate your attic. If you put on a metal roof, use ½” double foil-faced polyisocyanurate between the trusses and the roofing… it will prevent sweating and dripping.

9) Randi tells me that you do your best work after dark, so wire Kelvin and Lumens on your ceiling too. I got a bunch of 4 foot, 4 bulb, T-8 stuff at the HD that had armored cable outfitted with connectors and even dielectric grease quick connects for <$50 ea.

10) Don’t go overboard and light your shop too evenly. Provide adjustable task lighting at planning benches and in your finishing area.

I know that Steve probably told you all this same stuff, but if you want a third opinion ask Karl.

Regards,
Frank
 
I'm with Frank on the Velux.

About 8 years ago we had the house re-shingled, just after we moved in. At the same time we had the two old plastic bubble skylights replaced. All three of the companies that we called for quotes wanted to put in Velux. In fact, one said that he wouldn't warranty the roof, unless it was a Velux skylight.

Good units? Or just really clever marketing? Well, no leaks in all those years.

But I also agree with Tony - for a small area, a Solatube is a great idea. My folks put one into an interior bathroom. The bathroom had no window. Even on a cloudy day it is as bright as a ~50 watt incandescent bulb with the sola tube. What it doesn't give you, though, is any view up of the sky. It is strictly diffuse light.

Have fun.
...art
 
Top