A zero clearence for my slider

Wayne Watling

Member
Messages
19
Just took an hour our of my not so busy weekend schedule and made a zero clearence insert for my technomax slider. I purchased the wood about 12 months ago and cant for the life of me recall what spieces it is. Its extremely dense and heavy, the piece you see here has been sanded so it looks lighter in color than it actually is but the real color is close to chocolate with some black and its shiny when put through the planer. (Perhaps Ipe?)

Regards,
Wayne

DSC01650.jpg
 
Hi Wayne, welcome to FW! I don't know much about sliders, other than they are impressive machines. Nice job on the insert, but I thought sliders had a scoring blade and therefor wouldn't need the insert. Please explain!
 
Encouraging to see someone using wood for a zero clearance plate. Since I hate spending money on thing when I don't need to, I had been considering using Osage Orange for plate. I could plane it down to proper thickness and it is tough stuff.
 
Hi Wayne,

Sure does look like ipe, looks real sharp.

I'd bet osage orange would work well too Frank. I keep thinking I've got to order some bow stave rejects from one of those archery suppliers and make hammer and axe handles out of them. As far as inserts go, I used wood ones for years, but finally bought one of the aluminum ones with the wood insert. I still don't know if its really worth it by any measure other than I really like it :D.

John
 
Hi Wayne,

Sure does look like ipe, looks real sharp.

I'd bet osage orange would work well too Frank. I keep thinking I've got to order some bow stave rejects from one of those archery suppliers and make hammer and axe handles out of them. As far as inserts go, I used wood ones for years, but finally bought one of the aluminum ones with the wood insert. I still don't know if its really worth it by any measure other than I really like it :D.

John

I'm a big OO fan for a lot of things, but hammer and axe handles would probably be better made from hickory or ash. My vote would go to the hickory. If you tried whittling OO to shaped you would spend a whole bunch of time at the sharpening wheel. It's tough but might not have the shock absorbing qualities of hickory.
 
Hi Wayne, welcome to FW! I don't know much about sliders, other than they are impressive machines. Nice job on the insert, but I thought sliders had a scoring blade and therefor wouldn't need the insert. Please explain!

Hi Ed,

Yes the slider does have a scoring blade but I have yet to put it to use but first I'll have to do a little reading because I have never used one before. The zero clearence helps alot when cutting very small pieces, the standard aluminium insert has large gaps either side of the blade and its easy for small pieces to get lodged and sucked away.


Encouraging to see someone using wood for a zero clearance plate. Since I hate spending money on thing when I don't need to, I had been considering using Osage Orange for plate. I could plane it down to proper thickness and it is tough stuff.

That should look pretty darn spiffy when your finished, nice looking wood. I wanted to used a product called canvas phenolic but couldn't find it.

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/osage%20orange.htm

Hi Wayne,

Sure does look like ipe, looks real sharp.

I'd bet osage orange would work well too Frank. I keep thinking I've got to order some bow stave rejects from one of those archery suppliers and make hammer and axe handles out of them. As far as inserts go, I used wood ones for years, but finally bought one of the aluminum ones with the wood insert. I still don't know if its really worth it by any measure other than I really like it :D.

John

Yes John your right, it is Ipe, just found it at this website:
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/ipe/ipe%206%20face%20sanded%20s50%20q60%20plh.htm

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/ipe.htm

Regards,
Wayne
 
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The only reason I thought of it is the archery guys like it better than hickory. If it works for that I thought it might just make an axe handle that I can't even break :D

I've actually had pretty good luck picking out well oriented hammer handles at the borgs, if they've got a dozen or so to choose from. Out here though, hardly anyone stocks good axe handles, as hardly anyone uses axes.

Good point about the sharpening though, would be kind of a bummer to spend all that time and then break the thing.

John
 
Wayne, if you had ipe lying around, you probably already know that the end grain needs to be sealed to keep it from splitting... I usually just slap on some anchor seal as soon as I cut it.

If you want a quick tutorial on the scoring blade, I would be glad to help... but a phone call would be easiest. Do you have the 410 or the 410 S ? Basically I only use it for cross cutting plywood, but it is great for that.
 
Wayne, if you had ipe lying around, you probably already know that the end grain needs to be sealed to keep it from splitting... I usually just slap on some anchor seal as soon as I cut it.

If you want a quick tutorial on the scoring blade, I would be glad to help... but a phone call would be easiest. Do you have the 410 or the 410 S ? Basically I only use it for cross cutting plywood, but it is great for that.

I have your number so I'll give you a call. That piece of wood has been laying around my shop for at least 12 months probably more and it shows no sign of splitting so perhaps it isn't Ipe, would a few coats of thinned out urethane be enough to seal the ends. I'll post a close up.

DSC01654.jpg
 
If the specific gravity is greater than 1 it's probably Ipe.

I have had some ipe float (<1) and some sink (>1), so it depends on the board. It sure is heavy, though. I thought it always sank, but I put the little bowl that is now on the web site mentioned above (the end of the page of ipe pictures) in a swimming pool to prove the point, and we couldn't make it sink. Other things have sunk.
 
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