Project: How to stack cut on the Scroll Saw

Ned Bulken

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How to Stack cut on the Scroll Saw

Hi gang,
I'm actually Home tonight, so I thought I would do a little scrolling. Since there were so many nice comments on the 12 days of christmas project last week, I thought I would share my process of scrolling... and since I do have the nice camera, I documented it step by step. I dragged the images through photoshop and resized them so they shouldn't be too large for the average user. ENjoy!

Continued...
 
I scroll to relax, and it can be nearly as 'immediate' as turning for a finished project, depending on the complexity. I picked a simple pattern for this project:
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in this case, the pumpkin in the middle of this image.

I cut two strips of 1/8" ply to width, then sized them to the pattern:

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Once I have the stack the proper size, I tape the 4 edges together with masking tape, and tape the top face as well. The pattern then gets a quick dose of spray cement:

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no affiliation, but this little can is readily available at your local craft shop:

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After a minute to let it get tacky, I apply it to the stack, and then cover the top with clear packing tape, which helps lubricate the blade (lengthens the blade life) and keeps the pattern from lifting off in case the low tack glue gives up.

continued...
 
Once I have the stack prepped, I turn to the drill press, and make pilot holes for all of the interior cuts, and usually one near the exterior, which makes the final exterior cut easier.
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here it is, ready to cut,
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Some basic scroll saw how to: generally you should cut from the center outward, as the piece gets weaker structurally the more material you remove. This piece was only 2x3" so I wasn't too worried about that.

Here's the first two sections cut out: note that on skinny cuts which end in a point, I usually cut toward the point.

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rear of the same section:
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Again, I cut toward the point wherever possible, and I try to start at an 'outside' corner:

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Sometimes you don't have a 'good' start point, such as the eyes of the pumpkin in this piece. At that point, I start the pilot in the center, cut to the line, make a 90 degree turn and cut counter clockwise. (Most blades are stamped, and their teeth are set so that a counter clockwise cut is smoother than clockwise).

look closely at the 'right' eye, I drew some arrows showing how I cut out the left eye.
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Experienced scroll sawyers can make very sharp turns, so from the entry point, I cut to the line, and all the way around to the right corner of the eye. At that point, I stop the saw, and re thread from the pilot hole. Cutting clockwise into the corner, this can give a crisper corner than the reversal technique. In this cut I think the results were about even.

When it came to the mouth, I did things a little different. I wanted crisp teeth and corners, so I cut towards the corners of the mouth:
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here's how that looked on the back:
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there is only one pilot, the other 'hole' is where I looped the workpiece to make the tooth crisp and clean. That works, but only where you have lots of scrap 'room' to maneuver.

I tried a different technique on the other corner. After I made the cut on the top section, I widened the cut a bit at the corner:
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This allowed me to reverse the blade into the corner, and then make one long smooth cut all along the bottom curve of the mouth:

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This shot also shows how I hold a piece, keeping my fingers out of the path of the blade in case the piece jumps.

continued...
 
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I slipped just a bit, and cut through the outer edge of the stack when I cut the exterior out... amazingly without going through the tape holding the stack together.

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Once I had the stack cut out, I peeled back the pattern, and then the masking tape from the face of the top piece:

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here is the back of the bottom piece: this shows typical tear out on the back of the stack. which is easily dealt with with a piece of 240 grit sandpaper:

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Very nice write up Ned. That takes time to do it like you did documenting it. Thank you. What blade/blades are you using for this? When stack cutting or cutting the "critters" that are obviously thicker, what speeds are you using for each?? :thumb::thumb:

Oh, love the sign!!
 
Great tutorial, Ned! :thumb:

I've done a little scrolling - pieces to go on larger projects - always think about stuff like you showed but get busy on other things. LOML's co-workers have asked if I would make name plates for them like the one I did for her years ago. Any secrets to whipping out something like that?
 
Nice photo "how to" Ned!

Have you tried a piece of heavy paper (like a cereal box, etc...) or cardboard on the bottom of your stack to reduce the amount of fuzzies? Do you use reverse tooth blades? And toss in 5 or 6 more pieces so you have plenty of give -a- ways!

Thanks.
 
I went to the tool guy yesterday to have a blade sharpened, and I was checking out a makita scroll saw he had on sale for under 200, tempting stuff, I like all the little doodads you make with the saw.
My daughter is always bugging me to cut out little things for her kids in school to paint. One day maybe. but I appreciate the tutorial.
 
Very nice write up Ned. That takes time to do it like you did documenting it. Thank you. What blade/blades are you using for this? When stack cutting or cutting the "critters" that are obviously thicker, what speeds are you using for each?? :thumb::thumb:

Oh, love the sign!!

Jonathan,
I used a 2-O iirc, I tend to have the saw almost all the way up to full speed no matter what, I never liked slower speed cutting, and while I do have variable speed, I prefer letting the blade do its work and control the piece more with my feed rate.
On the thicker pieces or hardwood, I use a #5 and if it is industrial strength material, a #7. Basically thicker stock gets a thicker blade and vice versa .

And it didn't take too long to shoot the images, I kept the camera handy and just shot what I thought would be useful.

Great tutorial, Ned! :thumb:

I've done a little scrolling - pieces to go on larger projects - always think about stuff like you showed but get busy on other things. LOML's co-workers have asked if I would make name plates for them like the one I did for her years ago. Any secrets to whipping out something like that?

Bill, I used to use Mahogany pen blanks to make name signs for my co workers. We had computer sign ons from the company so we were always calling each other by our log-on. I was:

bulke2.jpg


I hand draw my text patterns, and then I use scrap for the both the piece and the base. Name plaques or signs are quick and easy to make, half hour at the most!

Nice photo "how to" Ned!

Have you tried a piece of heavy paper (like a cereal box, etc...) or cardboard on the bottom of your stack to reduce the amount of fuzzies? Do you use reverse tooth blades? And toss in 5 or 6 more pieces so you have plenty of give -a- ways!

Thanks.

Barry, with the finer blades, I don't worry about a little bit of tear out or fuzzies, that being said. I'll try that and see what happens!

I prefer reverse blades when i can get them. Of course I know about FLying Dutchmen blades, and I have an order in with Mike, but until that comes in, I've been using some that I picked up at Woodcraft. And stack cutting is the way to go, especially when using thinner stock and smaller pieces. When I am cutting a larger piece it is usually a one time deal (though I might re-cut the 9-11 raising the flag tribute).

Allen,
go ahead, pick one up, you'll enjoy it!
 
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