How to build this....

Sam Smith

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My daughter who is into arts and crafts would like for me to build this "Stamping-UP" cabinet for her.

The rack itself measures approx. 24 1/2" wide x 3 5/8" deep x 18 3/4" high and each ink pad slot measures approx. 4" wide x 3 1/2" deep x 1 1/4" high. The re-inker slots measure 1 1/2" wide x 3 1/2" deep x 1 1/4" high.
Framed in super stable 1/2" MDF (medium density fibreboard, very strong and stable) and utilizing a pressboard back board and interlocking shelving, this was designed and built to provide years of dependable use!
 

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I was thinking along those lines....but not sure what is the best way to do it....was thinking about using a tablesaw...
 

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Sam i would use the table saw and a sled to support the pieces along with appropriate dado blade.

But here is a thought. If you going to build her a custom unit why not discuss with her more about what she needs in it.

May be an opportunity to add some little draws at the bottom and give the unit more use. Storage of bits and pieces ass. with the hobby. Even consider building wider sides and adding a couple of doors to top half and a fold down say 18 inch wide table to rest some items on when moving from work table to rack.
That would make it more interesting and challenging to build along with greater use obtaining something that money cannot buy.:)

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
I'll second Rob's suggestion of the table saw and sled, shouldn't be too hard. Stack your pieces to cut matching slots. Also like Rob's idea of extra storage and discussing it with your wife. Like building a custom tool chest, lay out what's going in there to make sure the spacing is right and it has a place for everything and future expansion.
 
Sam i would use the table saw and a sled to support the pieces along with appropriate dado blade.

But here is a thought. If you going to build her a custom unit why not discuss with her more about what she needs in it.

May be an opportunity to add some little draws at the bottom and give the unit more use. Storage of bits and pieces ass. with the hobby. Even consider building wider sides and adding a couple of doors to top half and a fold down say 18 inch wide table to rest some items on when moving from work table to rack.
That would make it more interesting and challenging to build along with greater use obtaining something that money cannot buy.:)

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

She has already indicated that she would like wider sides, my daughter lives a couple of hours away, hopefully I will see her this weekend and discuss with her any changes that she would like to see.

With regards to the 18" fold down, I can't picture that in my mind....

Would you use the 1/2" Mdf for both the doors and drawer face?
 
ink stamp holder

I also agree with the use of a sled with stacked boards but would add ... make a set of spacer blocks .. 1 3/8" for your 1 1/4" height (12 needed) to use on the vertical dividers ... 1 5/8" for your 1 1/2" width (2 needed), 4 1/8" for your 4" width(2 needed) for use on the horizontal dividers. You can then work from the stop block with all the requried spaces in place, make the first cut (after careful setup) and then simply remove one spacer, make the next cut, remove next spacer, make the next cut, etc.

As for the doors, drawers, etc. that is for you and the daughter to decide. If you do close up the front, consider a handle on the top ... makes it portable??

sketchup attached for your use ...
 

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I would use one or two wide boards, cut the dado's spaced out evenly, using TS or router, whatever works better for you.
Slice the dado'd board or boards into 3 and 5/8th, then assembly then into dados cut on the outside frame to accomodate all the shelves.
Then just cut all the short divider pieces you need, slide them in and glue in place.
 
What about a 1/2 round cut out on each shelf front edge so the item doesn't have to overhang the front edge so its easier to get a hold of?

Heck it's just a modified torsion box with one side open.

I'd dado so all parts go together like a 1/2 lap & glue the ends to the the case, it shouldn't go anywhere.
 
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I also agree with the use of a sled with stacked boards but would add ... make a set of spacer blocks .. 1 3/8" for your 1 1/4" height (12 needed) to use on the vertical dividers ... 1 5/8" for your 1 1/2" width (2 needed), 4 1/8" for your 4" width(2 needed) for use on the horizontal dividers. You can then work from the stop block with all the requried spaces in place, make the first cut (after careful setup) and then simply remove one spacer, make the next cut, remove next spacer, make the next cut, etc.

sketchup attached for your use ...

Robert, with regards to your description of the spacer blocks and how to use them in the cutting of the dividers I can't for the life of me visualize it...

Regards
Sam
 
I also agree with the use of a sled with stacked boards but would add ... make a set of spacer blocks .. 1 3/8" for your 1 1/4" height (12 needed) to use on the vertical dividers ... 1 5/8" for your 1 1/2" width (2 needed), 4 1/8" for your 4" width(2 needed) for use on the horizontal dividers. You can then work from the stop block with all the requried spaces in place, make the first cut (after careful setup) and then simply remove one spacer, make the next cut, remove next spacer, make the next cut, etc.

Robert, with regards to the spacer blocks could you do up a diagram showing what you mean...

Thanks
Sam
 
I believe Sam has hit a roadblock as to how to approach the stepping of the cuts on the tablesaw to make the interlocking slots for the internal grid. I have used the spacer method as Robert describes in post #24 and #25 here: http://www.familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10794&page=2 . I have also used a "key" in a sacrificial fence to do these sorts of repeatable stepped cuts. The general idea is shown in a somewhat interactive set of images here (no login required, just keep clicking NEXT to see the steps): http://www.finewoodworking.com/interactive/finger-joint-jig-for-the-tablesaw/

I used the keyed method for a finger jointed box. Same concept just wider spacing and deeper (taller) cuts . . . hmmm, I cannot seem to find pics of that one. I'll look at home.
 
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I agree with the spacer block idea, However old school works too.

If I remember right I made a pattern & cut the slots into it, then clamped it & my stacked pieces together & shot a couple of screws 1 at each end of the stack removed the clamps & using my miter gauge slotted the batch.
 
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