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Band saw blade drift solved

bandsaw drift

I have adjusted the fence to my Grizzly 0555X to compensate for blade drift, and tried my best to tension the factory 3/8" blade properly. Still, for the first 4 inches or so of a rip cut using the fence the blade wanders in a gentle "S" pattern before settling into a cut parallel to the fence. Has anyone seen this before and found a solution to it. Feed rate seems to not matter.
 
Alan's reply may have sounded tongue in cheek but, I assure you he is serious. Get a decent blade; Timberwolf, Highland Hardware, Lennox even some upper end Olsens will do better than the factory blade. It is sometimes astonishing, the difference a quality cutter makes on a tool.
 
Yep. Get a decent blade. For re-saw work, I prefer the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland. I used a 3/4" Timberwolf for a while but I like the Woodslicer better. For general blades, I've used Ellis and Olsen; both are fine.
 
+3 on the get a new blade suggestion. I'm a firm believer in the Ellis blades. About 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a Timberwolf blade, and in my experience the Ellis blades are as good or better as the Timberwolf.

I use and recommend the "Flexback" blades listed at the bottom of this page:

http://www.ellissaw.com/Band-Saw-Blades/48/band-saw-blade-stock-list

For a dedicated resaw blade, I agree with Bill...the Woodslicer is hard to beat on a typical 14" bandsaw.
 
glenn bradley said:
Alan's reply may have sounded tongue in cheek but, I assure you he is serious. Get a decent blade; Timberwolf, Highland Hardware, Lennox even some upper end Olsens will do better than the factory blade. It is sometimes astonishing, the difference a quality cutter makes on a tool.
Click to expand...

I figured why beat around the bush and got straight to the fix!
 
glenn bradley said:
Your answer was perfect Alan. :thumb:
Click to expand...

I agree. When I saw "factory blade", I almost chimed in myself, but Alan beat me to it. ;)

And Barry, this is in no way a bad reflection on you. I think most of us have learned the hard way how bad factory bandsaw blades typically are. You're just a member of a big club. :)
 
Hi,

My Delta 14 inch and my Grizzly G0135 x2 are both running straight and true since Glenn originally aligned them. I never even think about it; I just use a fence whenever I want to. I just assume that the blade is going to run straight and true and it does.

The Delta has a 1/4 inch Carter AccuRight blade. It is a fine blade. The Griz has a 3/4 inch Woodslicer. It is awesome...It goes through wood like it was a banana. However, do test your wood for metal, even if you are positive there is none there---DAMHIKT (Don't Ask Me How I Know That for those of you new to the forum.)

The LOML just called me to dinner. It is only 5:20 but we got off schedule due to appointments.

Enjoy,

JimB

I am going to try the Ellis blades next time. I'm doing that just because Vaughn thinks they are so great.
 
Well this is really an interesting thread so I always blamed most blade drift on unevenly set teeth. Have even tried to use an emery stick to help things out with some success.
I know things got much better when I got other than the Olson blades from the hardware store....
 
Thanks Alan, Glenn, Bill, and Vaughn. Much better with a new Olson blade. I've ordered a 1/2" Woodslicer for resawing. I might try aligning my table the extra 2 degrees to get the miter slot parallel to the blades.
Barry
 
I have a Rikon 10-324 14 inch bandsaw and am using the 1/2" Woodslicer blades. I feel that I have adjusted everything the way that is supposed to be and yet have problems with drift when re-sawind.Have Called th company a couple of times and seem to get stuff worked out for a couple of cuts them the cuts deteriorate. Cuts are usually narrower on the bottom than the top. Is this the tension? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help,
Dave
 
David have you made sure to square up your blade to the table. I dont know your saw but on the Delta i have under the table on the side closest to the frame there is usually an adjustment bolt of some sort that acts as a stop for the table when at rest. This should be adjusted by first loosening slightly the trunnion bolts and then adjusting this bolt to raise or lower the edge of the table while holding a square up against the blade. Once you get the steady horizontal position set at 90 degrees lock up the trunnion bolts and check again. That will make sure the blade is passing through the table and whatever wood you use at 90 degrees to the table. This could be the issue with your wedge problem.
 
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