Parting Tool_Which do you prefer

I tried to get information on wood turning, parting tools to determine which to purchase. All of my requests created many threads; many of which had nothing to do with turning. After looking at many threads that were no help, I gave up.

I searched under "Turning Tool Questions and Show & Tell" I tried "parting," "Parting tools," Parting tools, and Woodturning parting tools. No Joy. Please help. Thanks in advance for any help.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
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Jim, I have two parting tools...the "diamond shaped" parting tool that came with my Harbor Freight tool set and a thin one like this:

sorby-narrow-part_l.jpg


I'd say I use them both about the same amount. The Harbor Freight version is easier for me to use, since it has a longer handle and a thicker blade. The Sorby tool is handy for the times when I want to make the parting cut as narrow as possible, but with its shorter handle, it's harder for me to control.

Either one is a useful addition to the tool kit, but like all other turning tools, they work much better when sharp. ;)

Take this advice with a grain of salt, though. I really don't use a parting tool all that often, since the things I typically turn don't really need one. When I get down to trimming off the last little nub of a tenon off a bowl or hollow form, I prefer to use a shallow detail gouge like this:

Bowl 092 - 09  800.jpg

A parting tool typically tears the wood fibers more than cuts them (at least in my hands it does), and a tearing cut wouldn't make something like this possible:

Bowl 092 - 11  800.jpg
 
I have an arsenal of parting tools meaning I have a lot more than most people.

First and most favorite is my Sears 3/32" diamond parting tool with which I delicate shaping work on end grain. I remove excess wood on the bottom of box blanks when I reverse turn them and create beads and recesses in the end grain. I also create beads and recesses on the lids of boxes using the small sharp edge like a miniature skew to cut the end grain cleanly.

Next is a Sorby 1/8" parting tool. This is the traditional shape and I use this for lots of parting tasks. I sharpen the bevel and hone the sides so that I get cleanly cut edges without tear out when I am parting.

I use a Crown 3/16" diamond parting tool for rough forming of the body flange upon which the lid will sit on my boxes. I like using the diamond shape because it allows me to rock a crown shape on the flange for a suction fit with the lid.

I also use a Sorby 3/16" fluted parting tool for making deep parting cuts. The sharp spurs on the bottom of the tool sever grain cleanly and the tapered shape of the tool offers less resistance and has less of a tendency to bind in deep cuts. You can also form tiny beads with the it if you are careful.

I like to use a Sorby 1/16" fluted parting tool for deep parting cuts where I am concerned about the possibility of a catch with a thicker tool. This tool will leave a very clean surface if you hone the sides as well as sharpening the bevel. In use you do have to be careful to not let it bind or twist as the long, thin blade will bend and break. Never had it happen but have seen it happen to others.

Lastly for parting box blanks in two while losing a minimum of wood at the cut I use a Ray Key type 1/16" parting tool. It is just like the 1/16" parting tool Vaughn has pictured in his response. I like this tool because it removes a minimum of material and helps me preserve the grain match between the top and bottom of my boxes. I seldom part the blank in two using just the blade but cut most of the way through and then finish on the band saw in a cradle.

And a couple more.....I made 1/4" and 3/8" beading/parting tools from pieces of HSS that I bought from Enco. I use these for rapidly removing lots of waste wood in a variety of applications. The smaller tool is great for "skewing" end grain smooth.

You don't need all these tools but I do use them all and they each serve their purpose for me in specific applications.
 
My favorite is my Forrest WWII, on my Shop Fox cabinet saw. It pars just about any board I push at it. :rofl:

Hardy, har, har...:D

I have 3, 2 diamond shaped ones and a thin one I made from an old worn out hand plane blade. I cut it in half length ways (that wasn't fun BTW) and then made a handle for it. Ground it like the thin sorby Vaughn showed...works great and only takes a little material. I've also seen one that was made from an old planer blade.
 
I have a diamond shaped pinnacle, a thin sorby, a sorby fluted parting tool, a henry taylor and several I made from wide stainless steel steak knives. They do work quite well.
 
I've got four, the one Vaughn shows and three others, one is 1/4" thick one is 3/16" thick and the last one is a little tool that is only 1/8" thick, all get used.

If I had to have one, I'd have the 3/16" one I guess.

Sharpen often!
 
My oldest son, Greg, has a saying, "Nothing is ever simple dad."

I thought I was asking a simple question. The answers show that I have a lot to learn about parting tools. The one I have been using has a diamond cross-section with a diamond shaped point. I think it is an old ShopSmith lathe tool. It does a fairly neat job. However, I felt that there had to be something better, hence my post.

My Easy Wood "Easy Detailer" really loves to do the parting thing. However, it cuts a very wide channel (VERY quickly). It is very easy to control if you are willing to make the very wide channel.

Thanks for all of the wonderful information. As the blacksmith sculpture man said, "I shall forge a head."

Thanks again and Enjoy,

JimB
 
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