Here are the important tools:
The measuring systm is millimeters. A calculator and the number 24.5 to remember. The yard sticks came from Harbor Freight. They are amazingly accurate with each other and with the tape on my table saw. The ruler stop is shop made with a nylon thumbscrew that doesn't mess up the yard sticks. I noticed that Lee Valley had some fancy powder coated aluminum stops with brass thumb screws for $15 a pop. Maybe later. NOT! The aluminum track is something I had extruded and sold in various lengthes in the late '90's. Took it on the show circuit with me. About a year after I did that in New Jersey, a guy came out with his own system. That's what happens went you do not have the money to market the crap out of your product. Getting it patented would have been a waste of money. Not much of change leaves you with no legal standing even if you had the money. Save that soap box for another time.
I now use the smallest vise grips HF makes to clamp the track to the sheeet goods..
A shoe is made for your saw base. You need to know the distance from the inside of the blade to the edge of the track.
Measure this carefully and make a gauge. I used a strip of 1/4" plywood and my number is 54 mm. If you changed saws and or blades you would have to do this over everytime you wanted to use this system. I have an inexpensive Skil saw with a Tenyru blade great for cutting sheet goods.
Set the ruler stop at your desired dimension. I set it at 8 inches. If I really wanted 8", I'd convert it to millimeters, in this case multiplying 8 by 25.4 or 203 mm and set the stop at 203 mm. Lay the gauge against the track and butt the assembly against the end of the ruler. I use the yellow clamp to hold the ruler stop snuggly against the edge of the ply. Clamp the track.
Repeat on the other end. Set the clamp aside and check each end of the clamped track and adjust until you are happy that each end is perfect. Now remove the gauge and readjust the stop without thes gauge in the relationship. I don't use the yellow clamp for subsequent set ups either. Now you can setup repeatable cuts with two less items to juggle. Notice the guage says the saw kerf is not included in the 54 mm. In this example we are trying to cut off exactly 8". The saw kerf equals 2 mm. So adjust the stop 2 more mm out. Now the stop should be at 203 + 54 + 2 or 257 mm.
Adjust the blade depth. Drop the saw in the track. Take a nick cut. Set the saw aside. Take the ruler and check that the nick is the very end of the ruler. Adjust the stop or track as needed. Make the cut. The cut off should be exactly 8" or 203 mm. For subsequent cuts just clamp the track with the stopped ruler and you are good to go. No more measurements. i can stack multiple cuts and find the widths are finger flush from top to bottom.
I don't need to comment on track systems or racks to cut on. Plenty said there. Whatever floats your boat.
Hope that works for you, Brent. I'd really like to make a trip north to visit. Maybe in May. I could toss the rig in the car, if you like.