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Roll top computer desk W.I.P.

larry merlau said:
900 to save fingers???? so you got to close some time back to a sharp object or you had to pay that for the power feeder in 86?
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Bought a new shaper, started to learn how to use it. Decided my fingers where worth more to me and $900 ( with taxes) for a feeder to hide behind seemed the smart thing to do. I remember it being 900 as the shaper was the same price.
 
I recently bought a used Omni DT jig, been making a lot of adjustments to get it making DoveTails in 3/4" oak. Heavy jig, and bought the DC chute for it. That works great!! Today I'm ready to butcher 16 pieces of wood for 4 drawers.
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Bryan i like the all wood slides. Thats my idea of woodworking none of this steel ballbearing nonsense when we can use wood.
But yup there is always a but....could you elaborate for me as to selection of wood and its graain orientation along with clearance tolerance.
I am sure i aint the only one thinking that i would not want my draws not opening or binding when weather changes.

My guess is these slides can be pretty loose since i reckon they on serve to stop the draw racking and getting wedged against the side but honestly i have never done something like add a slide. Have (back in school) made a draw that had a face flush with sides and no slides but the tolerance on the edges was pretty generous. The draw face back then was hardwood and draw made up using face and half blind dovetails.

Personally i thought it very nice kind of finish. But you had to get the opening square and true front to back. My feelings were it was a sign of how good your woodworking was if the plug could fit the hole and slide back and forth properly.

This is going to be an awesome desk:thumbup:

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
bryan i dont think your gonna have any trouble gettin doves to fly with that jig and your flight training.. and from what i have seen that stroke sander has to be the best investment in your shop.. you use it for everything.. and the most usefull is the adjustable bench aspect..:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Rob Keeble said:
Bryan i like the all wood slides. Thats my idea of woodworking none of this steel ballbearing nonsense when we can use wood.
But yup there is always a but....could you elaborate for me as to selection of wood and its graain orientation along with clearance tolerance.
I am sure i aint the only one thinking that i would not want my draws not opening or binding when weather changes.
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I used maple stock cut to 1/2 thick. I bought one slide and copied it, but the metal support bracket for the back of the drawer , may take some thinking to reproduce:D
 
IM sure you can read better than me bryan,(and you know what youre doing) but just wanted to mention. If youre doing single pass blind dovetails for the drawers,on the omni jig making the drawers up to 1/4 inch marks give nice spacing. 5 and a 1/4, 6 and a 1/4. etc....
I didnt follow the jigs advice first couple of times, I always learn the hard way.
 
I dunno about that! I did through DT's and seems hard to put the drawers together and I should have thinned the stock to 1/2". 3/4 " makes a heavy drawer! Sure is quick once you have the Omni set up. Still learning!!
 
Ive done some work with the 24 inch omnijig, and its all about the adjusting and test fitting.
I dont find it simple work, more about just being patient and making sure every piece is secure and cut even/square
 
PC Omni DT jig, love it. Very sturdy and I found it fast, had all the DT's done in an hour. DC chute worked great, not much got out. I got one drawer mounted to see how it runs . I need to make some upper stops to limit upwards drawer travel when pulled out.IMG_5453.JPG
 
another full day in the shop. Doing your own drawer slides is a lot of work!!:doh: Drawers will have overlay fronts, and other pedestal will have a door, pull out printer and scanner shelf.
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made up two 20x63 tops. I will take a 1/32 off each top tomorrow and then glue that up . Hope it stays flat, as I have never made a solid top this big before. I need 36 &1/2" finished width x 62L to give me 1" overhang.
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Laid the 2 halves on the pedestals. Ends need a 1/2" trimming, and about 3" for width. After I glue up the 2 halves, I need to design the end raised panels of the roll top to fit the 27" Mac under the roll top. Looks like the roll top section will be 24" high off the desk surface.

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its always a pleasure to view the builds you share here. You seem to move along effortlessly, turning out well crafted furniture anyone would be proud to own.
(or brag that they made it)most of all, I admire your commitment to a piece once you start the build.
No wasting time, and you get it done in such a short time.

the top looks like(in the pic) you had no movement or just nothing noticable. Flat as flat could be.

might be wise to attach the top once the desk is at its final location. big heavy unit and wide(36.5) desk top.
 
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