Automatic dust collection

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78
Location
Maplewood, NJ
At long last I'm moving my shop out of the damp, low-ceilinged basement and out to the dry, airy, double-doored garage. The garage is unfinished, so I get to start from scratch with the electrical system. I'd like to set it up so that, if I start either the mitre saw or table saw, the dust collector comes on automatically.

Problem: The mitre saw runs on 110V, the dust collector and table saw run on 220V.

From what I can tell, the gizmos that allow you to make this happen require everything to be on the same voltage.

Do I have that right, or does anybody have a better idea?

Thanks.
 
That is a bad idea - a dust collector should run for a while after the machines stop, to clean the ducts, and having multiple motors start at the same time creates an extraordinary load. The starting current for my 22 amp machines pegs the ammeter (over 60 amps) for 3-10 seconds, so you are far better off waiting until one machine gets started before you start another.

Further, if you have a good size motor - such as a 3-5 hp dust collector - you should consider how often it is started, since that high starting current becomes heat in the windings. Many engineers recommend that a 5 hp single phase motor not be started more than 3-6 times per hour. It took a while to get used to leaving my 5 hp saw running between cuts.

I wear a pocket button to remote turn on my 5 hp dust collector before I start the first machine, and I leave it running until after the last machine is stopped.
 
That is a bad idea - a dust collector should run for a while after the machines stop, to clean the ducts, and having multiple motors start at the same time creates an extraordinary load.

Note that a lot of the systems to do this have a timer circuit. It wouldn't be unreasonable to set it for 10-30m past when the machine shuts off.

Brian,

I can't speak for any specific product as I haven't used any of them so I'm going to speak in generallities based on the underlying principals in the hopes that it helps you find something reasonable :dunno: Basically the way that these sorts of systems work is that there is a capacitive voltage sensor that trips a relay on a low voltage circuit which in turn trips a relay coil to turn on the DC. In hard wired systems (ignoring wireless, although they're similar just with more parts) the voltage between the sensor and the DC relay is usually ~24v (aka "low voltage") and is wired in such a way that if any leg flips on the circuit is closed. Capacitive sensors are available that work at any voltage (110 or 220, three phase is more special) so you can simply buy yourself out of the problem if you have sufficient funds :rofl:.

This was all assuming that you were talking about an automatic system where if you turn on the machine the gate magically opens and the DC turns on. The systems that work where if you open the gate manually the DC turns on are somewhat simpler because you can skip the capacitive blah blah.. and only need the circuit going to the DC relay.

Having said all of that, all of the systems like this that I've seen are stupid expensive. An example is ecogate.com (which I'm sure works fantastically.. if you have the money). I believe that if you're motivated enough you could build one yourself.. but hey I have a day job so that ain't happening here.
 
I use a simple remote control on my DC, I wear the little xmtr on my shop apron and turn it on before turning on the tool and shut it about a minute after turning off the tool and can do that from anywhere in the shop.
 
I use a simple remote control on my DC, I wear the little xmtr on my shop apron and turn it on before turning on the tool and shut it about a minute after turning off the tool and can do that from anywhere in the shop.

Ditto for me, plus I have two additional remote buttons hanging at different sides of the shop so I have easy access if I'm not wearing my apron. I leave the DC running between cuts or while moving between machines and leave it running for 30-60 seconds after I'm finished. I've looked at different "automatic" systems in the past but prefer what I've got since I'm in control of when the DC runs. Frequent starting of electric motors isn't healthy for them.
 
I use a simple remote control on my DC, I wear the little xmtr on my shop apron and turn it on before turning on the tool and shut it about a minute after turning off the tool and can do that from anywhere in the shop.


Same here. I bought the remote switch at Walmart for about $14.00. It hangs in a central place in my shop (small basement shop) So often before instead of walking around the corner to my DC I often wouldn't bother to turn it on for just a few cuts.
 
Yeah... I think I got a little carried away with "perfect shop" dreams. The remote sounds like the best idea. I was just getting tired of this routine:

– Open the gate on the mitre saw.
– Close the gate on table saw.
– Walk over and turn on the DC
– Go back and make the cut on the mitre saw.
– Walk over and turn off the DC.
– Open the gate on the table saw.
– Close the gate on the mitre saw.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

The remote should do it just fine... if I remember to keep it on my belt.

But thanks for all the great advice!
 
... The remote should do it just fine... if I remember to keep it on my belt. ...

I don't like wearing the typical toolbelt, so I got one of these:
889-183.jpg

I put a metal keyring around the neck strap, then clipped the remote to it. My apron isn't as full as this one, but it keeps the main items I need with me.
 
I clip my DC remote to a belt loop on my jeans. Even with a t-shirt hanging over it, I can grab it (through the shirt) and turn on the DC easily. It has become an automatic motion any time I'm turning on a stationary tool in my shop.
 
I also wear a remote switch for the DC. It is 220 vac. I also have a remote for my shop vac. That remote clips on to my belt only when I will be using the Shop Vac quite a bit. Example, I was turning a straight walled bowl on the lathe. The DC took pretty good care of the stuff flying off of the wood EXCEPT the sawdust inside of the cylindrical bowl did not want to come out and get a ride to the DC. It would just stay inside of the cylinder and totally block my view.

I stuck the end of the shop vac near the cylinder. When I needed to clear the sawdust I just hit the switch on the shop vac remote.

115 vac remotes that have plenty of ability to carry the amperage of most 115 vac tools cost about $11 .00 to $16.00 at the Borgs or Harbor Freight. That sure beats the $49.95 that is in the WW catalogs.

SYMBO just called dinner so I shall sign off now.

Enjoy,

JimB

Any questions give me a PM. Jim C Bradley
 
Kris could you elaborate on how you use your ivac units please. I have been watching those for some time but my concerns lie at the heart of what has been said in terms of the on off aspect and heat build up in motors as a result.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
 
Rob,

My 3HP dust collector works find through the iVAC and contactor. I have had no heat issues. You can set the unit to keep the dust collector running up to 45 seconds after your turn off your machine or from the remote.

Kris
 
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