dresser support question?

larry merlau

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i have been cutting alot of pieces for these dressers i am in the process of and am about to get committ4ed to how i am gonna proceed.. as i was getting ready to cut the dust dividers parts to final size i had a question arise and thought i better ask for some thoughts before i cut them to short.. i think i can support the drawers better by having this upright in the back.. on these dressers i am running wood drawer slides underneath the drawers so the support isnt coming from the sides like on glenns.. so i think i should have this upright figured into my design.. to support the back edge,, the frnt edge will be getting a face piece attached to it like glenns..so i should be ok i think on the frnt..??? what say yeah wize ones:)
back support.jpg
 
Is this piece gonna have a plywood back on it? If so, you could nail/screw the back to the back edge of each dust frame.

Otherwise, I'd use the upright support you've pictured.

You could even do both - Ain't no kill like overkill! :D
 
hadnt thought of the obvious jim :( looking at having it stabilized for drawer fitting and the back would be off for that..???

but i need to get this decided before i cut the dividers to width..
 
If it is temporary for fitting run the web frames full depth (less the back of course). A screw through the vertical and into each frame would give you stability for fitting, remove the vertical before attaching the back. As Jim says, if your back will be ply and therefore well fastened, screws or nails through at regular intervals will probably add the support you need. If you prefer, cut your frames shy of the inside rear limit, dado your vertical support at the frame positions and tack it in place prior to attaching the back. Still another idea would be to use the vertical with dados to catch the frames and dados along its narrow edges to capture a two panel back in a traditional frame and panel sort of way . . . sorry you asked yet? :D
 

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I like Glenns idea of using the center support with the groves for two plywood pieces. I normally dont use a back support. I use 1/2" ply glue and nail it in place.
 
well we will stay with the support stick and one piece back.. but i like the idea of the two piece set up glenn.. now to swat a hornets nest.. what is to keep my frnt from going wonkers in time??? as i see it you and me both are relying on what is straight now will stay straight??? or do you think the face stip going at a 90 degree to the face of the divider going to do the trick
 
well we will stay with the support stick and one piece back.. but i like the idea of the two piece set up glenn.. now to swat a hornets nest.. what is to keep my frnt from going wonkers in time??? as i see it you and me both are relying on what is straight now will stay straight??? or do you think the face stip going at a 90 degree to the face of the divider going to do the trick

Larry That same thought crossed my mind but I didn't come up with any solution other than I have never seen any used.
 
we are gonna go with the upright in the back and the frnt will be like the first pic don so we gotta hope for good luck on that area:)
straight 3/4" ash with some 1" cherry in frnt of that will have to hold..
 
...what is to keep my frnt from going wonkers in time??? as i see it you and me both are relying on what is straight now will stay straight??? or do you think the face stip going at a 90 degree to the face of the divider going to do the trick

Think about the way you're building the drawers, Larry. The main load bearing surfaces are going to be on either side. The (unsupported) middle of the dust frames/dividers isn't going to have any appreciable load on it, so it shouldn't sag.
 
jim thats why your the wize ole owl:) my slides are going to be at 9" from either side so as you suggest the bulk of the load is going to be supported by its own rack strength. this is my first dresser and so i hadnt experienced the physics in this:)
 
i hadnt experienced the physics in this:)

It does get interesting as you start to consider those drawers full of socks, sweaters or jeans. My frames are attached with glue and screws at the front of the carcass. For the frames to droop, the sides have to come in. The sides have a right angle corner joint that I am counting on for strength to resist that. Also, there is no load on my frames.

More traditional builds I have seen (check out Mr. Becksvoort if you want to see some thinking behind a dresser :)) have the drawers ride on the frames close to the sides. The middle gets a guide that only controls lateral wig-wag but, no load. It can get interesting for sure.
 
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