slab flattening jig/table build

Alright, I've run into a conundrum with the base. I had planned on going with something similar to this.legs.jpg but I was going to use a bridle joint.

The pieces I cut off the bottom of the slab had some bad checking and had warped so much that I've decided not to use it for the base.

Here's some walnut that I have that I can use for a base. This piece is 6"x36"x 2.5" thick.IMAG0191.jpg

This one is 8" wide x 2" thick x 8' long. IMAG0192.jpg I'll loose about 6" off each end because of checking.

All the suggestions from the family so far have been spot on. Throw some suggestions at me about how you would build a base using these two pieces of wood.
 
Well, I decided to go with the off cut piece from when I shortened the slab for the legs. I split it into and got two pieces right at 14 inches each. They were rough with splits/warp galore! I flooded the cracks with ca and sanded the fool out of it. I wanted to end up at about 18" off the floor finished. I had to put two stretchers across the top. I'll need to level a strip so the table sets flat on the stretchers and is level. Here's a couple of shots of the top sitting on the base. IMAG0193.jpgIMAG0194.jpgIMAG0195.jpg

What's everyone's opinion for a finish. I don't spray.
 
You'll get a lot of ideas for finish. I seldom add any colorant to walnut. I use a varnish blend for tables. 1:1:1 of BLO, mineral spirits and Cabot's Gloss (its a modified phenolic). This wipes on with a consistency of warm syrup. Leave it for 20 minutes or so and then come back and wipe it off as if you've hanged your mind. Leave it for a few hours (or overnight) and do it again; I do 6 coats for table tops. You'll need good ventilation and it does take several days to a couple weeks to cure.

It is pretty self-leveling so its hard to make mistakes. The only thing to watch is leaving it on too thick between coats; when you do the wipe-off step, really wipe it off. Once it stops off-gassing you can bring it indoors. I wait several weeks before I put it to any rough use. By then the varnish is pretty tough. I keep using the same example piece but, I haven't completed anything with this finish since this little table. He has a few scars as this is where the car keys and sun glasses get dropped when I get home :eek::

Pedestal.jpg
 
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Thanks Glenn, that sounds pretty much idiot proof, which is good for me.:D:thumb: I'm looking at a few options for a top coat, but that will be toward the top. Here's a few pictures with a coat of BLO slathered on.

table 001.jpgtable 002.jpgtable 003.jpgtable 004.jpgtable 006.jpg
 
Looks great John!:thumb: I'll second Glenn's rub on finish, I've used it on the tables I've made and it holds up well. I use minwax gloss poly, BLO and mineral spirits for my home brew oil.
 
That came out looking beautiful, John. :clap:

Question: Did you also flatten the bottom of the slab, or just leave it rough?
 
I flattened enough of the bottom where the slab sets on the supports so it would be level, if that makes sense. I then sanded it with 80 grit so it would be somewhat smooth.

Thanks for the info. I'd been thinking of doing about the same thing on my slab. I figured it wasn't worth losing the additional thickness by flattening the bottom. :thumb:

But now that you've raised the bar by making your table, maybe I'll have to come up with something else to do with my slab. Like a giant wall clock. :D Or maybe 1,703 coasters. :rofl:
 
Thanks for the info. I'd been thinking of doing about the same thing on my slab. I figured it wasn't worth losing the additional thickness by flattening the bottom. :thumb:

But now that you've raised the bar by making your table, maybe I'll have to come up with something else to do with my slab. Like a giant wall clock. :D Or maybe 1,703 coasters. :rofl:

the great walnut gods will strike you down for that comment vaughn:)
 
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