Turning Calipers Question

Dan Mosley

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1,169
Location
Palm Springs, Ca
Today I dropped my small calipers i use to make tenons (see below). I have played with this dang thing on and off all day long trying to get it to clamp back on and have not been able to get it back on.
Anybody know a easy way to get the clip back on ?
 

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Try turning the adjustment screw to the most wide open position; then see if the top will go on.

More ideas:

I have some spreader pliers; lot of good that does you, however, they were quite inexpensive.
Harbor Freight sells calipers for a low price.
Make a wooden caliper; after all you probably are not after a specific measurement but the ability to repeat a diameter.

Just some quick, probably useless, ideas off of the top of my old head.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
I was unable to find the missing part - but using the spreader pliers I was able to put the clip back on to hold them together - not accurate as a new pair with the parts but it works and hold the diameter good enough to make tenons................so thanks to everybody I appreciate it
 
I seldom actually measure a tenon after cutting it. I mark it, cut it, and go. I use calipers like Dan broke, and set them at the approximate width I want. (I'm not too worried about accuracy...it's not rocket surgery.) I cut a smooth spot on what will be the tenon end of the workpiece, then carefully hold the calipers against the wood as it's spinning on the lathe to mark the tenon size on the wood. The tips on my calipers are rounded with no sharp corners, so I end up with a faint line burnished into the wood that I can use as a guide for sizing the tenon. Works fast and is as accurate as I need. You don't want to try this with sharp-tipped calipers, though. DAMHIKT :whistling:
 
I was unable to find the missing part - but using the spreader pliers I was able to put the clip back on to hold them together - not accurate as a new pair with the parts but it works and hold the diameter good enough to make tenons................so thanks to everybody I appreciate it

you might be able to replace the pivot part with a small bolt section dan
 
The small bolt idea is good and ill use it if it does not hold together - For now it seems to hold after i open the clip with spreader pliers and put it back on....It may not be precise as it once was but I only need it to hold in a position........... I have two of these calipers (old rusty) set to sizes for my supernova jumbo jaws chuck and the other to spigot type jaws. I turn the tenon like Vaughn mentioned and use them to quickly just check the size, then with a parting tool or whatever I have at hand make the dove tail. For me its a very quick way to ensure the size is correct - held in one hand lightly as i get close to the size and with the rounded corners is a safe way to do it.
I have seen others use compass, wrenches etc......there are other ways but this is they way I have settled on as I only have these 2 chucks and they can do anything I have needed.

I do have a set of calipers like the ones Dan Noren pictured above - but it has sharp corners - I use this one for much more percise measurements like finials so they fit tightly - or on boxes to make sure lid and box fit snug.
 
"I do have a set of calipers like the ones Dan Noren pictured above - but it has sharp corners - I use this one for much more precise measurements like finials so they fit tightly - or on boxes to make sure lid and box fit snug."

I finished the corners down on mine a long time ago. Of course I received my set of inside & outside calipers for Christmas when I was about 16 about 43 yeas ago.
 
I seldom actually measure a tenon after cutting it. I mark it, cut it, and go. I use calipers like Dan broke, and set them at the approximate width I want. (I'm not too worried about accuracy...it's not rocket surgery.) I cut a smooth spot on what will be the tenon end of the workpiece, then carefully hold the calipers against the wood as it's spinning on the lathe to mark the tenon size on the wood. The tips on my calipers are rounded with no sharp corners, so I end up with a faint line burnished into the wood that I can use as a guide for sizing the tenon. Works fast and is as accurate as I need. You don't want to try this with sharp-tipped calipers, though. DAMHIKT :whistling:

Unless I'm missing something (which is likely), I rarely measure a tenon anyway, unless it's suppose to fit into another piece I'm working on... example: I make wood wine glass stems in two parts... the stem has a tenon that fits into the base and needs to be reasonably accurate... on bowl blanks, I just eyeball the tenon to fit m chucks and go... I do have a set a calipers like Dan's that I use when I need to measure.
 
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