Stabilizing tank

Jim Burr

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3,633
Location
Reno, Nv
This took a lot less time than thought.
Tank is from Curtis Seebeck at Turntex. The suction part is a refrigerator compressor with a tube hooked to the suction side coupled to the tank inlet. It pulls 28 mmhg without a sweat. Compressor $40, tubing $4, brass connector Free because it was the last one at Lowes and the clerk got tired of looking for a price! The tank was made for me so I'm not including the price for that. You really smart guys can do this with a Mason jar. After stabilizing, the blanks need to be baked off to cure, so my wife found a toaster oven at Goodwill for $4...it works great although I hope to toast a bagel while my blanks are cooking:rolleyes:. There is a large box of stuff in the shop that needs stabilizing so more pics when that happens. Thanks for looking!
 

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Hey Don! Thanks Bernie!
The idea resides with Curtis...a link on his website. I just followed the diagram barely! Once I looked at it, the solution really just smacked me in the face. I asked the guy I bought it from what the deal was and in a nutshell...
There are 3 ports on a fridge compressor, vaccum to suck the freon thru the system, exaust to vent the suction and a fill port that has a valve stem. This is used to add freon. I covered the exhaust port with a couple layers of cheese cloth to keep stuff out. The suction port is connected to the tank. Seems like a sealed system since it's filled with oil. More pic's on request. The pressure pot is in transit...Tony is sending me one from Hawaii...right Tony?
 
hey jim did you fry your eggs on top of the compressor i see you had a sprker laying next to it as though you had and then you forgot the pam to help with clean up..:) and Don from whati have read that pressure pots do work.. but they are better for spraying finish and am looking to get one in good shape:)
 
I also asked you at IAP but I'll ask here to so others can see.
What did you use for tubing?
I have found that tubing softens after a while from the solvent fumes being pulled through it. I have to replace mine periodically. Would like to find a solvent resistant tubing.
 
Pretty cool Jim. I've never seen a picture of the setup using the refrig thing before. Looks like fun. A pressure pot will work and there is a tutorial on IAP that shows how to set it up so you can use it for pressure or vacuum.
 
Jim, I have not Tried it yet but am doing a lot of research. From what I have been able to tell it keeps the wood looking natural but give it a plastic property so it will not move, or fall apart. I have also read that you don't need to apply a finish as the wood is sort of pre-finished. That is why I am looking at it because of my allergies.
 
Thanks guys! I'll see if I can answer (ie; Remember) everyones questions. I use vinyl tubing but i'd guess fuel line would work well and is made to resist fumes. Since Cactus Juice is non flammable and very low toxicity, it's pretty on the plastic and the tubing is dirt cheap! That's a lotta yolk Larry! It was just expansion foam used to cushion it's placement in the fridge. All this does is suck resin into punky or really soft wood. I'm sure most have seen spalting that went just a little to far and became soft enough to put your toenail through. Or buckeye burl that was so soft you could turn it with sand paper. Using this, it sucks a curable resin into the pores and hardens. It really is a dream to turn! The tank is large enough to get medium size HF or bowl blanks into. It does take a minute, but it will pull 28 mmhg with out a problem. Studies show that the difference between 25 vs 28 mmhg doubles the penetration of the resin. As soon as I find it, I'll add a pic of a stabilized closed end Jr Gent II from buckeye burl.
 

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Once again Jim, Thanks and an FYI some of my research says that an old pressure cooker will work as the tank too so I'll be looking at garage sales and thrift stores for one going cheap.
hmmmm shopping list refrigerater compressor, pressure cooker, fuel line, valve, vacuum gage. yup that and a few fitting and I'll be good to go.
 
Jim, I have not Tried it yet but am doing a lot of research. From what I have been able to tell it keeps the wood looking natural but give it a plastic property so it will not move, or fall apart. I have also read that you don't need to apply a finish as the wood is sort of pre-finished. That is why I am looking at it because of my allergies.

Some wood, really most, stay natural looking. Some darken. Some sand smooth and need no finish but not all. It is still wood, ye gotta go with what works for a particular piece.
 
Don't forget the Acetone and plexiglass to dissolve in it. Acetone is about $15.00 a gallon. My tank takes about 2 1/2 gal. and I must replenish as it is used up. Plexiglas, if bought, is expensive. I'm fortunate to have a free source but am looking for others in case this one dries up.
 
Fer the record. Here is my set up. Old paint pot given to me by Jay. Gast vacuum pump with valves, gauges, filters, etc. Never used. Bought from a friend who buys at industrial auctions. Got cheap, $100.00.
pressure pot.jpg
 
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