Rockler Shelf Pin Jig - Upgrade

glenn bradley

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I don't do much with shelf pins so this is not a thread started by a seasoned veteran of this sort of work. After using a pegboard version with reasonable success, I spent a gift card at Rockler and got their jig on sale. The jig is 1/8" material and doesn't prove reliable after more than a half dozen holes or so using their self-centering drill bit that comes with the jig. The bit housing heats up enough to melt and stick to the plastic jig. While not fatal to the jig, it certainly could be if one does not pay careful attention :rolleyes:.

Anyway, I got through the project and hung the Rockler jig on the wall till next time. A while later I needed to do a few shelf pin holes again. I was going to grind down a router temple bushing to accomidate the 1/8" material but, chose to glue a piece of 1/4" ply to the existing jig to add thickness. I also went ahead and countersunk the connector-bolt heads. Leaving them proud never did make much sense to me :dunno:.

Our favorite gluing advice site 'this to that' recommended silicon rubber adhesive for plastic to plywood. I had some handy and so went to work. Used the original jig as a guide for drilling the plywood add-on (after the glue had set of course). The results are slower than with their drill bit but, no melting, and a smoother hole entrance so, I'm happy.

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I've got that same jig Glenn, and never had any problems with heat on the bit. I haven't used a whole lot, maybe 10 cabinets total. I wonder if there's a problem with your bit?
 
I've got that same jig Glenn, and never had any problems with heat on the bit. I haven't used a whole lot, maybe 10 cabinets total. I wonder if there's a problem with your bit?

I'm thinking there has got to be. It just doesn't make sense that they would be able to sell many of theses as it is ;).
 
As a novice that has never had any jig of this type, I'd like to learn something here. I would have been leary of running a bit into the "plastic" jig. Would have not thought about heat but more likely missing a little and making the hole in the jig out of round. Would it be wise to use a center punch to mark the center using the jig, then remove the jig and drill? Or, is that just introducing an unnecessary step that may lead to more error?
 
As a novice that has never had any jig of this type, I'd like to learn something here. I would have been leary of running a bit into the "plastic" jig. Would have not thought about heat but more likely missing a little and making the hole in the jig out of round. Would it be wise to use a center punch to mark the center using the jig, then remove the jig and drill? Or, is that just introducing an unnecessary step that may lead to more error?

This jig uses a special bit. The bit is inside a holder that fits the hole. It is spring loaded that self centers the bit in the hole.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5911

There is a video on Rockler's site that shows how to use the jig with the matching self centering bit.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876&site=ROCKLER

Each end of the jig has smaller holes that match the bit & shelf pins size being used so you can do long runs with accuracy. The jig comes in a couple of sizes 5mm or 1/4" & comes with matching bit. You can also buy replacement bits if needed.
 
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Here is a shot of what happened to the guide holes where the bit got hot enough to stick to the plastic. I have not such problem with the router as the collar remains cool during operation. I obviously received a defective bit and it is important to note that many others here have this jig and bit and have no problem. If I had not had a problem I would still opt for the thicker phenolic versions (the Rockler jig is 1/8" thick plastic) sold by various makers if I were doing it again ;-).
 

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Ive had mine for several years now. Never an issue. All Ive had to do is replace the drill bit, the vix style bit that comes with it has worked very well. Sounds as if something is binding on the mechanicals of the bit itself. I have drilled hundreds if not a few thousand shelf holes with mine.
 
hey rich, you mean you dont use a line boring machine? and if not then how do you make sure the other side doesnt shift position,, i had one batch of holes that shifted somehow causing one pin to need a shim..:( i ended up scribing a line on the jig to line up on next time..
 
The line borer is on the list but at 1600 bucks its down a ways...:( what i do with the jig is i clamp a plywood block at the base of the cabinet that indexes the.height of my first hole. Then i use.my kreg clamp to hold the jig in place drill vac out the chips reposition the jig.to the back still sitting on the plywood block and repeat. Works like a charm
 
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