got my motor.....but..........

Easy peasy, Frank. Simply do one wire at a time. Vibration issues wil have you back behind the motor plate again. Like the old Fram filter commercial, sooner or later.

Carol Reed said:

Easy peasy, Frank. Simply do one wire at a time. Vibration issues wil have you back behind the motor plate again. Like the old Fram filter commercial, sooner or later.

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Frank well done but take a moment to pause and hear out our lady preacher, thats excellent advice she is giving you and well worth taking inmho.
Old geezers saying...stitch in time saves nine.


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Yep, it is like changing the spark plug wires on a vehicle, one at a time NO MATTER HOW EASY IT LOOKS!!!!! This saw sounds like it is going to be a beast!

As I understand it, he did not use wire nuts, but a crimped barrel splice. If that is the case, he should be good to go I would think.

Frank Fusco said:

...I am using those yellow things that get squeezed to hold the wires. The two twisted did not make it down to the metal inside and, of course, no connection. With only short wire to work with I stripped a little more insulation off and retwisted and reinserted into a new connector. Then I finished the incoming wire to the connector.

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Frank Fusco said:

That's a new thing for me. I'll look into it.

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Another name for it is a zero clearance insert, or ZCI. It replaces the throat plate that came with your saw.

It's basically one of these with the slot cut after it has been installed on the saw. That way it fits the blade exactly. It's a good safety addition (keeps small pieces from falling into the hole and being shot out by the blade) and it also tends to improve the quality of the cut by reducing or eliminating splintering of the wood:



If you search around, you should be able to find some write-ups describing how to make your own. They can also be purchased from places like Rockler and Woodcraft. Whether you make one or buy one, I'd recommend using good plywood or phenolic material. I've used some of the plastic (UHMD) ones, and they are too warp-prone and flexible for my tastes.

Oh, I know what that is. I thought he was referring to some kind of splitter.
I made zero clearance insert for my old ts using some scrap plexiglas. I'll make one for this from wood. Just plane down to proper thickness.
I readjusted the splitter and hope it works.
The belt stretched a whole bunch with just a few minutes use. I'm at max adjustment.